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Topic Summary

Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 14, 2021, 08:13:48 AM »

Scoutpilot, thanks for the response.
In answer to your question, for the first pump shown above, (the "new" one that has low time on it), the vacuum diaphragm shaft end has two notches cut into the sides of the flattened portion of the shaft; it is not a single slot in the middle of the flattened portion. The notches of the diaphragm shaft are captured by a slot in the long arm of the pump (the diaphragm shaft is rotated into position to be "captured" when assembled, not unlike the hold down springs/cups used on drum brake shoes [flat spear shaft into the slotted cups] to hold them down)
Sorry no picture...I'm at work dang it!

Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: July 14, 2021, 06:47:04 AM »

Pump number one. What is the configuration of the tip of the shaft from the vacuum diaphragm? If it is the slot type, it is the wrong one for this pump. The configuration of the pump arm connector for this diaphragm is of the cross-type. If this is the pump you were running, the shaft would've been raised by the arm in a manner such that it would skew the too-long stroke, stretching the rubber seal so that oil would be allowed to enter the chamber.

The last pump looks like it has been modified to fit the 134. It is incorrect for your application.

Numbers one and two are rebuildable.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 13, 2021, 10:06:05 PM »

The last pump I have was on a replacement engine I purchased 12 years ago. It's an odd pump in that it has the number 9268 which indicates a 1949 Mercury pump.
But the pump I have does fit the L134; the pump arm matches the L134 style lever in the other pumps i have.
This pump has a strange top with a glass bowl off to the side. This pump also has check valves held down with screwed tabs. This seems to me the best candidate for a rebuild. What do you think?
I'll have to replumb all my lines, and it will definitely be less "correct' although it's vintage looking which is fine with me.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 13, 2021, 10:01:33 PM »

I have two old pumps that I'm wondering have value as a rebuild project this winter:
The first is the pump that was on my Jeep when I got it. At the latest, it's from the early 80's. It's got no name but it's got 4032M on the flange.
The check valves look like they're pressed into place? Is this a rebuildable unit?
Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 13, 2021, 09:59:10 PM »

Scoutpilot,
Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Okay. This is the new pump I got a few years ago. No name, no numbers. It's only been run for a couple hundred miles. I found the vacuum chamber completely filled with oil. (I wonder now if THIS is what was causing the ticking noise that started me on this investigative journey). The picture shows the internals of the vacuum portion of the pump with the check valves. I looked at the fuel pump portion and it has valves that are staked. I'm guessing this makes this somewhat of a throwaway pump?
However, I will try to take out the vacuum parts of the pump, including the long actuator arm, put it together and see if I can get the rest of the summer out of this pump.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: July 13, 2021, 06:36:11 AM »

Why don't you post some pictures and I can help determine the rebuild possibilities.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 12, 2021, 11:15:08 PM »

Ok. I took apart the pump. I found that the main vacuum diaphragm looks okay. But I can't tell if it is sealed where the metal discs are riveted. The diaphragm shaft looks fine and smooth. The shaft oil seal in the body of the pump also looks okay (no obvious tears), but it's in a metal ring and I can't tell if it's leaking there around the perimeter of that seal. Something is not right, and it looks like this can't be rebuilt, so I'm going to remove the vacuum diaphragm shaft, and modify the vacuum portion of the actuator arm  and substitute spacers, (if I didn't do that, the vacuum arm would rattle around) and bolt the mess back together.
This allows me to use it as a fuel pump for now.

I'll post pix tomorrow of my hack job of this cruddy pump.

I have another pump that's got to be 40 years old, but all the check valves are staked. Not rebuildable.
I also have a Mercury AC 9682 pump that came on one of my L134's. Not sure why it has a Willys cam arm. But I may rebuild that one at a later time as it has screwed down check valves...I guess rebuildable? It's got a goofy glass bowl off the side too. Sigh. I'll have to re-do all my gas lines.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: July 11, 2021, 05:24:35 PM »

The air pump diaphragm stem passes through a rubber grommet in the main body. If that rubber grommet is cracked then you will see oil in the bottom. I suspect that is probably your problem. There should be no oil present in the vacuum pump. As well, the diaphragm itself acts as a barrier to oil infiltration. You may find a crack in the diaphragm. Be very careful when you take it apart.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: July 11, 2021, 04:43:30 PM »

I took off my fuel pump from my CJ3A to investigate a ticking noise. (I suspect it "ticks" because I spaced it away from the block with a spacer and I think that created a gap between the arm and cam for part of the revolution)
I intended to try the pump with no spacer.

BUT what concerns me is I found engine oil in the vacuum tubes in the lower section of the pump. Alot of oil.  I'm thinking this should not be...Am I correct? I guess it's a ruptured diaphragm for the vacuum portion of the pump?

This was a "new" pump, I suspect an OMIX ada or Crown pump. It's got probably 4 to 6 hours of operation on it.

If someone can confirm there should be no oil in the vacuum circuit, I will take the pump apart and see what that diaphragm looks like.

Dang it.