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Topic Summary

Posted by: tow hook
« on: June 10, 2021, 02:07:19 PM »

i'd say that they did the job rite. it's in a working fine so far. thanks
Posted by: elawson
« on: May 20, 2021, 11:35:46 PM »

Did you polarize the generator?

There are a couple of different ways of doing this and the exact method depends on the type of generator.  Either way, you'll spend more time lifting the hood than "doing the deed".



http://willysmjeeps.com/downloads/Generator.Polarization.pdf   gives the two procedures.  Chances are you will need the procedure for the A type of circuit.

But...check with the rebuild shop first. 

The difference between the A and B methods is based on whether the generator field is grounded within the generator, or if the field is grounded outside of the generator.
Posted by: tow hook
« on: April 21, 2021, 02:09:15 PM »

update

the amp light is on when the engine runs at various rpms , i have it at a shop. they have fixed most of the issues so far. due to a bad ground. they are looking in that amp light now, well parts come in. my turn signal switch was shorted.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: December 01, 2020, 03:58:19 PM »

fingers crossed.  Hope this does it!
Posted by: tow hook
« on: December 01, 2020, 02:59:01 PM »

Quote from: Rus Curtis on November 24, 2020, 04:25:53 PM
Good news on your gen/reg. 

On the wiring harness, mine came with the grommets (just adding salt to the open wound).  I cut a grommet to install around the temp gauge sensor line.  Once it was installed into the firewall, you couldn't see the cut. 

So, I suspect if you use a sharp blade it should be invisible once stuffed into the bucket hole.  Bonus is it's on the bottom of the bucket.  Turn the cut inwards and no one will be the wiser.

thanks i got the grommets, they were pre cut, so it will go easy. thanks for the tip

i got the generator back, has a new bushing in it to, and new post, and they repainted it as well :) would certainly use them again. now to make time to put it all in :(

 the bill

labor 60$
bearing 5.45 $
armature 112 $
regulator 98 $

275.45

tax 16.53

total 291.98

blacks specialty service
412 pelesky rd
boswell pa 15531
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 24, 2020, 04:25:53 PM »

Good news on your gen/reg. 

On the wiring harness, mine came with the grommets (just adding salt to the open wound).  I cut a grommet to install around the temp gauge sensor line.  Once it was installed into the firewall, you couldn't see the cut. 

So, I suspect if you use a sharp blade it should be invisible once stuffed into the bucket hole.  Bonus is it's on the bottom of the bucket.  Turn the cut inwards and no one will be the wiser.

Posted by: tow hook
« on: November 24, 2020, 02:54:02 PM »

the shop called fri, but i was at work. so i called them monday they had the generator fixed already  ( no est for repair )! parts list a new bearing, bushing and armature.  and the regulator was bad, thet had to be ordered. all parts an labor 300$ should be done by monday of next week. mean while i started the wire harness at the front, the head light part of it doesn't come with grommets for the head light buckets ? wtf.. i spent 400$ the could throw on some 5$ grommets ? i ordered some, and will have to decide how to install them.  do i cut the grommet or the wire ? i'd opt for the grommet.
Posted by: tow hook
« on: November 16, 2020, 02:20:37 PM »

Quote from: Rus Curtis on November 16, 2020, 12:14:04 PM
Excellent!  This is what I'd do. 

Bench testing may work just fine for the gen output.  Don't be surprised if they want the vehicle to test/adjust the regulator.  But.... hopefully, they can check its operation too.  Oh, and if the gen posts aren't marked, ask them to scribe the "A" and "F" for you!

FWIW, I'm guessing the load that the bulb provides is probably different than the outlet tester.  Meaning, the 60W resistance was needed to "excite" or cause the generator to charge.  W=V*A.  60W /110V=.5Amps. But if on your vehicle:  60W/ 12V = 5 Amps.  The test light could be mA rated and not enough to make the generator "charge"  Note: I'm not an electrician so I may be wrong on this.


i took the regulator and generator to blacks electrical in boswell pa. and he tested the gen. it was noisy / grindey  when he went to pull power from it. left it there for a est.. i'll hope for the best.

thanks again
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 16, 2020, 12:14:04 PM »

Excellent!  This is what I'd do. 

Bench testing may work just fine for the gen output.  Don't be surprised if they want the vehicle to test/adjust the regulator.  But.... hopefully, they can check its operation too.  Oh, and if the gen posts aren't marked, ask them to scribe the "A" and "F" for you!

FWIW, I'm guessing the load that the bulb provides is probably different than the outlet tester.  Meaning, the 60W resistance was needed to "excite" or cause the generator to charge.  W=V*A.  60W /110V=.5Amps. But if on your vehicle:  60W/ 12V = 5 Amps.  The test light could be mA rated and not enough to make the generator "charge"  Note: I'm not an electrician so I may be wrong on this.

Posted by: tow hook
« on: November 16, 2020, 11:03:50 AM »

thanks for the oil tip. i found a outlet tester ( for a house ) in my tool box, i used that vs the 60 watt bulb test. it didn't lite. so i found a local place that does old
school work  on generators an voltage regulars. the parts are out and i'll go down after lunch to get them tested.


Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 15, 2020, 05:30:32 PM »

Quote from: tow hook on November 15, 2020, 04:50:47 PM
Thanks that 110 seemed odd , I’ll get a bulb and wires and test further. I’ll shop @ the ace mon am , an see we’re it goes. Thanks again. Yep it does run. How much oil should I put in those cups on the front an rear of the generator ?

Well, the manual, LUBRICATION SPECIFICATIONS, says a 2-4 drops of engine oil.  I've used 3-1 oil before (both the gen and distributor) but maybe engine oil is better.....
Posted by: tow hook
« on: November 15, 2020, 04:50:47 PM »

Thanks that 110 seemed odd , I’ll get a bulb and wires and test further. I’ll shop @ the ace mon am , an see we’re it goes. Thanks again. Yep it does run. How much oil should I put in those cups on the front an rear of the generator ?
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 15, 2020, 04:13:52 PM »

Quote from: tow hook on November 15, 2020, 12:21:41 PM
Thanks so much for the pic and the help. My ground screw was a tad under sized, got the right size bolt an tested it. My service manual says probe the arm tab for 12 volts. The test light didn’t lite up, so it says to use a 110 volt test lite. An test the field to ground, they want you to use a house outlet test lite ? Seems odd to me. Any thoughts ?
     

I have never actually tested or adjusted a regulator.  The time I had issues, I took it to an alternator shop and they adjusted it for me.  Lucky for me, I really haven't had a problem since.

But....  I had to look and find the reference for the light bulb (it sounded odd to me too).   I found it in my Service Manual (SM) in par I-27.  First it states to have everything hooked up correctly then test.  The first test is using an ammeter.  If your jeep has its ammeter installed and connected, seems that would be the easiest.  I think the following test may be needed if you're showing no amp needle movement.


I found under "No Ammeter" test where you disconnect the armature lead at the regulator.  Test (using a 6-12V light) with the engine running.  If you don't get a light the SM states there's a problem - either regulator or generator.

To isolate, that's where it states to disconnect the field and armature at the generator.  Using a 60W bulb, connect between the two posts (Arm and Fld).  The SM states at 1500rpm that bulb will glow.  This means the problem is with the regulator.  Certainly an interesting test.  Probably making it simple for the owner to troubleshoot in case a full shop isn't conveniently nearby.

Is your jeep running yet?  If not, this test may be premature. 

Quote
  From the arm tab on the regulator I have a wire that goes to the wire harness. What purpose might that have ?
For this one, I don't see any wire between the regulator and the rest of the wiring harness except for that one "Batt" wire.  The other 3 wires that touch the regulator and generator are their own seperate little harness.  See my image above.  Also reference Fig 151 (hopefully numbered same as yours).  Or any wiring diagram will show those 3 wires only connected between the reg and gen.  The "Batt" wire is connected only to the ammeter.


Posted by: tow hook
« on: November 15, 2020, 12:21:41 PM »

Thanks so much for the pic and the help. My ground screw was a tad under sized, got the right size bolt an tested it. My service manual says probe the arm tab for 12 volts. The test light didn’t lite up, so it says to use a 110 volt test lite. An test the field to ground, they want you to use a house outlet test lite ? Seems odd to me. Any thoughts ?       From the arm tab on the regulator I have a wire that goes to the wire harness. What purpose might that have ?
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 13, 2020, 12:57:49 PM »

Batt = battery.  Also check your generator to see if the posts there are labeled.

The ground wire can be attached to a nearby ground, typically at the regulator (I've always seen the wire grounded there).  That short wire may be the remnants of the ground. 

Diagram here:
https://cj3b.info/Tech/SixVolt.html


I used that side cover screw to attach mine.  I had to go look at it again to see why I attached it there.  It seems it would be better to attach to the base that is fastened to the fender.  I didn't want it directly under the hot wires and it wouldn't reach all the way around to the outside fender attachment, but there was one bolt that was clear.  Then I looked closely and noticed the wiring harness had a small terminal that wouldn't fit on the larger fender bolt.  My choice must have been driven by convenience (I didn't want to change the terminal to a larger one) and I wanted to finish that part of the harness install: