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Topic Summary

Posted by: tow hook
« on: June 10, 2021, 01:53:22 PM »



my tub issue

i had to move my tub upon to  a 1" spacer due to the herm's twin brake master cylinder. i have 3/8 " between the lines/ fittings that come out of the master an my trans bell housing. An my cooling fan has a 1/4" gap on the pass side of the fan shroud. i could try an raise the cross member. but it's still tite around the bell housing/ master.
Posted by: Mike House
« on: June 09, 2021, 05:11:12 PM »

Pic
Posted by: Mike House
« on: June 09, 2021, 05:10:31 PM »

Pic
Posted by: Mike House
« on: June 09, 2021, 05:08:43 PM »

Pic
Posted by: Mike House
« on: June 09, 2021, 05:07:19 PM »

Body on
Posted by: Mike House
« on: June 09, 2021, 05:01:11 PM »

I purchased the MD Juan Cj3b body about 3 months ago to complete my project. I upgraded the power train to a dauntless V6. I maoved the engine and transmission mounts ahead 2.5 inches. First fit my body was sitting on the transmission and sitting back about 2” too far. The firewall would not clear the valve covers. I have Hedman outside the frame headers. I added a 1.5” spacer for the body and everything fell into place. All the hat channels lined up with the mounts. I will add some pics. Mike
Posted by: binthere
« on: February 08, 2021, 05:25:09 PM »

I bought mine for a 53 from Willys Overland back in 2007, and they have a perfect frame and drill all holes to match their frame. Mine fit just fine. :)
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: February 08, 2021, 04:19:51 PM »

Ken,
Every body kit comes from MD Juan regardless of who is selling it.  Every body that has been made has been off.  Even the "newer" revised bodies still need tweaking.

The absolute first thing I would do is let KW know where it hits and how much gap there is between the "outriggers" on the frame and the hat channels where you mount and the fact that the fenders won't line up either. 


You will have some options  like getting bigger spacers to get the body to sit up higher so the transmission won't make contact (then you'd need to create a fix for the other parts that sit up higher), or cut the center out and weld a patch in to allow the hump to sit higher.  The spacers (or liners from the Parts Manual) were originally almost all at 1/8" (thin) or in some spots 3/16" (thick).

There are several "how to's" on the 3B Page, the 2A forum and I suspect here too.  They will show how modifications need to be done.  What's important is clearance (as you've seen) and alignment - where the holes line up.
Posted by: zookeepwr
« on: February 08, 2021, 01:42:01 PM »

I got my CJ3B body kit for my 1954 Willys from Kaiser Willys. I've been trying to put it on the frame but it doesn't really line up correctly. They said to use 1/4" rubber for the mounts but it won't come down that far because it hits the transmission if the body is lined up side to side. It does look like it needs to come down so the fender holes line up better. Has anyone used this body kit for your CJ3B and did you have to do a lot of modifacations to get everything to fit? If you did what were they? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Ken