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Topic Summary

Posted by: tow hook
« on: April 21, 2021, 02:02:17 PM »

up date,

i took it to a shop, my grounds were bad. and my turn signal switch was shorted.  doing better now. midwest willys has sent the turn signal switch, and got a temp sensor, some how it broke at the ring terminal ? the amp light being on is still not solved as of yet
Posted by: tow hook
« on: February 02, 2021, 11:16:47 AM »

3 parts stores later and i got a T that works, hope to get it in this week. the last T i had was 3 holes the whole way thru. the inverted flare had noting to rest against.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: January 28, 2021, 05:40:30 PM »

Most brake light switches would screw into the end of the master cylinder and should be pipe thread.  If you cannot stop the leaking, you may need to use a mechanical switch  behind the brake pedal (I had one of those but got the pressure switch replaced and stuck with that).

https://walcks4wd.com/Switch-Stop-Light-Female-Terminals_p_939.html

I had this type
https://walcks4wd.com/Stop-Light-Switch-Male-Terminals_p_1435.html

and noticed the harness connectors were now male to male so I ordered short pigtails to connect:
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 28, 2021, 02:26:11 PM »

up date, felt strip were from the fuel tank. rear harness installed and working. starting the brake switch.  found a T  that the switch threads in to, but would leak with the brake lines, it's not machined for the flare. getting closer.
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 11, 2021, 10:47:15 AM »

thanks, if i get time 2 day i'll call carl.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: January 10, 2021, 03:20:33 PM »

Sounds like you've got the tail lights worked out.  I looked at your images and I still can't tell what those felt strips are for.  Were they listed on your invoice in any way?

I looked up "felt" on both Walck's and KW and while both had felt products (KW even had strips intended for the radiator and the gas tank) I didn't see anything for the electrical stuff.  I also noticed a listing for felt used in a breather cross over tube but for an older jeep. 

Looks like you've got some buffing to do on the rear panel.  Don't need your new lights falling off.....
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 10, 2021, 01:04:40 PM »

here's the link to the pics of my new tail lights, and pics of the old lights as well, i'm going to fix up the rust on the pass rear corner before i put the light it. make it solid, and have add body mount. i'm sure i'll be running this old tub for a year or 2.

https://www.mywillyspics.com/album/jXh8

i got the harness, wire clips and lights ready to go in, i'll post pics after the metal repair
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 05, 2021, 11:10:07 AM »

tow hook,
Not sure what the felt strips would be for.  What size are they?   What do they look like?  Picture?  Did the vendor offer any info on what they are used for?

The tail light to harness connection will be whatever the tail light needs.  If you're taillights are ALA then there are connectors that must be attached to the harness.  Scroll down this page of my build to see the taillights:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/green-gruntt-t4658-s30.html


If your taillights are after market, the harness may be secured with screws or spades.  Get what ever will connect to your lights.

The shrink wrap could help with moisture as will electrical tape.

The clips for the wiring harness differ depending on where you are securing to the body / frame.  The frame clips secure the harness to the inside of the frame rail on the bottom.  See Lawrence Wade's:
https://cj3b.info/Owners/WadeDetails.html

I see both Walck's and KW (more types offered for complete harness) offer clips. 
https://walcks4wd.com/search.asp?keyword=harness+clip
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nsearch/?q=harness+clip

Any clip that will hold the harness and secure to the body parts will work if originality isn't an issue.

You should also be able to find them with other vendors possibly.  If you want used ones, Harry Sheets may have a lot: http://www.midwestwillys.com/

Typically, I believe there are only two frame clips (spread out on the left frame rail).  You could add a third at the back if you wanted.

That hole up front where the harness goes is a change I need to make on my jeep (I didn't know the harness needed to go through that hole until later).

i have reproduction rear trail lights with just bare wires , so i got the spade connector to so that. i'll get a pic of the felt strips. thanks for the links.. i'd get a set of clips ordered up.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: January 04, 2021, 02:27:53 PM »

tow hook,
Not sure what the felt strips would be for.  What size are they?   What do they look like?  Picture?  Did the vendor offer any info on what they are used for?

The tail light to harness connection will be whatever the tail light needs.  If you're taillights are ALA then there are connectors that must be attached to the harness.  Scroll down this page of my build to see the taillights:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/green-gruntt-t4658-s30.html


If your taillights are after market, the harness may be secured with screws or spades.  Get what ever will connect to your lights.

The shrink wrap could help with moisture as will electrical tape.

The clips for the wiring harness differ depending on where you are securing to the body / frame.  The frame clips secure the harness to the inside of the frame rail on the bottom.  See Lawrence Wade's:
https://cj3b.info/Owners/WadeDetails.html

I see both Walck's and KW (more types offered for complete harness) offer clips. 
https://walcks4wd.com/search.asp?keyword=harness+clip
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nsearch/?q=harness+clip

Any clip that will hold the harness and secure to the body parts will work if originality isn't an issue.

You should also be able to find them with other vendors possibly.  If you want used ones, Harry Sheets may have a lot: http://www.midwestwillys.com/

Typically, I believe there are only two frame clips (spread out on the left frame rail).  You could add a third at the back if you wanted.

That hole up front where the harness goes is a change I need to make on my jeep (I didn't know the harness needed to go through that hole until later).
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 04, 2021, 11:21:57 AM »

ok i called the place that did my generator , and they will go over my issues. 60$ per hour 3 last questions

i got 2 felt strips i the box with the harness, any clue were they go ?

tail light to the harness connection, use a butt splice ? a spade term ? and use srink tubing right

how did you hold the harness down going the frame rail ? kaiser willys sells clips i saw. the harness goes threw a frame hole in the front by the wire wall, and you run it on the top or bottom rail to the rear ?

 thanks
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 03, 2021, 10:33:51 AM »

I put tags on each terminal of my old harness as I removed it, then laid the old and new harness side-by-side and transferred each tag to the new harness. Everything worked the first time except for the right front parking light and turn signal which I had reversed the wire colors when I rebuilt the socket - was an easy fix. But I have been doing this sort of thing for a long time, retired after 36 years with a Caterpillar dealer. I think towhook needs someone to give him a hand on site who is familiar with how to read these schematics, it can get very confusing!

half of the old harness was missing up front, it had no head light switch , or any wires to the rear at all i'm going to stop down at blacks electrical service and see if they could go over it for me? and how much.  they did my generator, and doing my buddys 57 3b starter. family's  not keen on haven people over yet. you guys have been a great help so far. i'd like another set of eyes to look it over
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 03, 2021, 10:27:52 AM »

Wow, that's a lot of colors!  On my harness, there were little numbers taped on to each wire end.  This helped me identify when I was connecting.

I wonder if drawing each component and illustrating each wire (color and number) going to each stud/terminal on those components would make it any easier. 

I also would pull out my multimeter and use on some wires to verify continuity before adding electricity.

yep it is. i wish some of the wires had a tracer, i hooked the amp wire ( on the right side harness ) to the ign switch vs the dash amp gauge/ light  :'( i leave the battery unhooked after each test that i run.  i've done a ton of hand drawn diagrams. hi / low switch, ign switch, head light switch, and the dash gauge....and the turn signals !!!   i have a good multi meter, how ever the operator needs better trained  :(
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 03, 2021, 10:22:37 AM »

Here are the two schematics that I received from Walck's with my new harness, you should have received the same with yours. This should tell you all you need to know.




indeed that's what i got, to bad i'm not good at reading that type of map, i just got the little sun images were bulbs at the end of the wires the other day... :(
Posted by: tow hook
« on: January 03, 2021, 10:20:06 AM »

I really don't think I can do you any more good from here, it sounds like you have several wires connected incorrectly, and I can't tell you without actually looking at your harness. The head lights/dash lights/tail lights should work regardless of ignition switch position, totally independent of ignition switch, only takes power from the battery terminal of the ign switch. I would say you need to get some local help from someone who can read and understand the schematic and look at your connections.

thanks, and i do under stand what u mean. the dash lights are the only problem i have as of now. i'll talk to the wife and see her  dad is willing to stop over. we've only scene them for ten feet away for the last 9 months....  would you proceed with the rear harness ? or get i what i have right before putting it in ?
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: January 02, 2021, 05:11:26 PM »

I put tags on each terminal of my old harness as I removed it, then laid the old and new harness side-by-side and transferred each tag to the new harness. Everything worked the first time except for the right front parking light and turn signal which I had reversed the wire colors when I rebuilt the socket - was an easy fix. But I have been doing this sort of thing for a long time, retired after 36 years with a Caterpillar dealer. I think towhook needs someone to give him a hand on site who is familiar with how to read these schematics, it can get very confusing!