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Topic Summary

Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: June 26, 2020, 09:33:10 PM »

Just wanted to give a much overdue update on the transfer case rebuild. Everything went great. Watched metalshapers videos and followed directions and it all went together like a charm.Wanted to give a big thank you to all of those who offered suggestions and encouragement. For anybody out there who is hesitant to tackle such a big task, don’t be. It’s not that hard. The only thing I wish I would’ve done different is to go ahead and rebuild the transmission while everything was out. About three or four months after it was all put back together it started jumping out of third. Thanks again!
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: November 08, 2019, 04:25:05 PM »

Thanks for the info. My starter guy was able to verify the starter model # and it is the one that matches the 129 tooth ring gear. He said the starter is repairable and he should have me going for about $100.
Posted by: oldtime
« on: November 05, 2019, 07:31:48 PM »

Yes you can easily swap between 124 or 129 tooth ring gears so long as you have the appropriate starter bendix.
129 tooth gears are generally a better system because  12 volt starters can be installed.
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: November 05, 2019, 11:24:31 AM »

Are the 124 and 129 tooth ring gears interchangeable? I need to replace the ring gear and the starter, and given the 124 tooth ring gears and compatible starters seem to be much more common, should I switch over? Thoughts? My 53 is one of the late production models, and has the L head with the 129 Tooth ring gear.
Posted by: oldtime
« on: October 28, 2019, 10:32:02 AM »

The seal counter bore on the rear bearing cap ooks perfectly service-able .
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: October 27, 2019, 10:45:00 PM »

Thanks for the advice. I have no idea why the pics didn’t show. I have a rebuild kit on the way from Novak. I did run in to an issue when I was removing the seals. Apparently at some point in the past someone broke part of the seal seat on the output housing, as can be seen in the picture. Thoughts on need of finding a new housing? It was not leaking there before- the e-brake area was nice and dry.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 26, 2019, 08:23:24 PM »

I'm a little confused too.  I didn't see the photos before, so rambled on thinking we were talking about 1st/Reverse sliding gear in the T90.

The TC gears pictured look good to me.
Posted by: oldtime
« on: October 26, 2019, 12:07:59 PM »

I got image on post #12.
Showed  no image until today....
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: October 26, 2019, 12:02:58 PM »

Unfortunately, no images for me......
Posted by: oldtime
« on: October 26, 2019, 10:37:45 AM »

For one thing lets get this straight..... your pic shows Dana 18 gears and not Borg Warner T90 gears.

Those gears are probably O.K. but it would help a lot if you can take a closeup pic of the worst.
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: October 26, 2019, 09:52:30 AM »

I don’t think any of the teeth are close to 1/4 of the way worn. The picture above shows the worst wear anywhere on both the transfer case and transmission. I think my main concern is those inner teeth on the output shaft. I don’t know all my terminology but in the picture, it’s the gear on the left and I think it’s what engages the 4 Wheel Drive.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 25, 2019, 11:33:49 AM »

- This isn't anyone's rule.  It is just where I would probably draw the line.  On the 1st/Reverse Slider gear...If a 1/4 of the overall tooth length has been worn away, I would probably replace it. When the damage is not that severe, I've dressed the teeth back to smooth (no burrs or edges) with a file.

- I would not dig very deep into the main-shaft if the transmission wasn't popping out of 2nd.  That said, there is no better time to inspect the individual parts for wear.  My experience with that symptom was eliminated by replacing the clutch hub assembly, 2nd gear and adding a shim to control main shaft-to-input shaft slop.  (It also included the full small parts rebuild kit, But that was on the first trip into the T90.) 

-  On the starter, I have now gone both ways.  I prefer to stay with the authentic stuff, but it doesn't always work out that way.  The nose cones can be found by posting at some of the "wanted" sections... here and probably at the 2A and G503 page.  I might have one that works, but I'm not sure.  The high torque starters are an option and work well, but you do give up some of that "old school" feel, both in look and sound.

-You must make sure your starter bendix teeth count matches the flywheel ring gear.

Keep us in the loop on this.  We all enjoy watching stuff come back together.  If you want some opinions on what parts look serviceable or are worn out, post some photos as you go.

Thanks for sharing your project!
Posted by: 64CJ5
« on: October 25, 2019, 08:49:51 AM »

Youtube, a shop manual and Novak's rebuild sheets worked for me.  Parts from Novak.  I changed gears at that time to change from a T90A to a T90C. 
You can do it.

Tom
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: October 24, 2019, 08:47:32 PM »

Here is a picture of those gears.
Posted by: Goggleeye
« on: October 24, 2019, 02:04:33 PM »

Thanks for all the advice - it's all out on workbench now.  Everything is going great. No bad words, blood, or broken fingers.   Figured out why it was popping out of high range - detent springs were not correct, and there was an extra ball in one side - go figure.  But all the seals were leaking on the tc, and the bearings, while not bad, have enough play to justify an overhaul kit.  The intermediate shaft also showed some wear, but nothing severe.

I do need some advice here from you more experienced folks, though.
1.  The sliding gear teeth mesh points showed some rounding.  At what point do you know when you actually have to replace the gears?  I'll try to post a picture later today.
2.  Before disassembly, the transmission shifted fine and did not pop out of 2nd.  There's no leaks in the front.  Should I leave well enough alone?
3.  Last year, I had the started bendix replaced, and after a couple months of use, it was making a lot of noise - that's why I parked it until now.  Turned out the ring gear was much more worn than I thought, and it sheered the teeth off the new bendix and cracked the nose cone on the starter.  Can those nose cones be replaced? or should I just get one of the new hi-torque starters?
4.  Along this same line, I was wondering if the gears could have got stripped because the gear teeth on the starter didn't match the ring gear.  The existing ring gear has 129 teeth, and the hi-torgue starters are for 124 teeth ring gears.  Should I just order a 124 tooth ring gear?
Thanks for reading - suggestions greatly appreciated!
Mark