The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:

Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: LKap
« on: May 30, 2020, 06:34:54 PM »

Success!  New spider gears installed. When I took out the old Pinion Mate Shaft there was quite a bit of wear. All back together now and no more clunk. Thanks to all for the help.
Posted by: OnlyOneDR
« on: May 25, 2020, 08:49:41 AM »

Tightened the outer bearing down with the yolk in place using a impact. It was very tight and I could barely turn the yolk. Obviously WAY more than the recommended 10-25 inch-pounds in the manual.  Could I have over tightened it? Is that possible with the same thickness of shims? I backed the pinion nut off and gave the shaft a couple solid whacks with a punch and it loosened up to what feels about right. Not sure this is good though. Need advice

Yes, that was over-tightened. The pinion shaft was essentially stretched under tension and putting too much preload on the bearings.  A dial-type in-lb torque wrench is best for checking preload but you can use a much-less expensive beam type and just repeat the measurement a few times to be sure you are close.  I recommend having one or the other and not going by "feel."
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 24, 2020, 11:27:24 PM »

Thanks for the info Russ. I did check the side gear clearance when I had the carrier out before. Tolerances were within spec. Hopefully it’s a quick swap. Just ordered the spider gear kit from Walcks with the 10% holiday discount.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: May 23, 2020, 09:30:17 PM »

More bad news.  The case will have to come out.  There's a description on how to do this in the Service Manual.  The side gears fit in holes and mesh with the axle splines, the spiders (Pinion Mate gears) have a cross shaft (Pinion Mate Shaft) that's held in by a pin.  Here's an illustration from the 3B Page (this may be a D44 but this and the 41 are virtually the same - I have a 41 in my 3B).

I won't attempt setting a pinion and ring gear but this was relatively easy.



The SM talks about measuring the tolerance on the side gears and if it's too large, shims can be added.  I had to get shims cut but it's very snug now.

Posted by: LKap
« on: May 23, 2020, 05:27:49 PM »

UPDATE - new pinion bearing and carrier bearings installed. Put it all back together and NO CHANGE. After staring at it for an hour moving the hubs back and forth, double checking the U-joints, driveshafts, wheel bearings, etc. I'm convinced it's the spider gears. There's a ton of play in the shaft so something has to be worn. Good news is I have all new bearings, bad news is that I have to take the hubs, brakes and axles all back out!😫😖.  Can I replace the spider assembly without removing the carrier again?
Posted by: JeepsterJim
« on: May 23, 2020, 12:02:04 AM »

real long shot but seen it happen......check the spring U-bolts for tightness.   Diff might be shifting back and forth.   Or a broken spring center pin.
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 22, 2020, 09:43:08 PM »

Parts arrived yesterday. The carrier is set up and ready to install but I’m struggling with the pinion. The inner and outer races went in fine. Used the same size shims under the inner race. I put the same thickness of shims on the shoulder of the pinion shaft and installed. Tightened the outer bearing down with the yolk in place using a impact. It was very tight and I could barely turn the yolk. Obviously WAY more than the recommended 10-25 inch-pounds in the manual.  Could I have over tightened it? Is that possible with the same thickness of shims? I backed the pinion nut off and gave the shaft a couple solid whacks with a punch and it loosened up to what feels about right. Not sure this is good though. Need advice
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 17, 2020, 01:02:12 PM »

Checked the side gears. I have 0.003 gap. Manual says up to 0.006 is good. Order submitted to Walcks for all the new bearings, etc. I’ll update once it’s all back together.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: May 16, 2020, 09:58:18 PM »

There is guidance in the Service Manual about checking the side gears.  That would be a good idea.
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 16, 2020, 09:07:41 PM »

I got it all disassembled today.  Carrier popped out pretty easy.  Carrier bearings looked ok but based on how easy it came out, they must have some wear. The pinion bearing was definitely worn out.  I'm making a shopping list right now - new bearings, races, seals and all new shims.  Ring and pinion gears look ok so I'm not going to change them. Anything else I should do while the diff is completely torn apart?
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: May 15, 2020, 12:38:39 PM »

I just went through everything you mentioned but with my dana 44. I had a annoying clunk when changing from forward to reverse. The axle splines were fine, back lash was fine, and the ring was tight. I decided to pull the case out and look closer. I removed the two case retainers and prepared to either spread the differential housing or slide hammer the case out. It almost fell out!!!!!!! The passenger side bearing on the case came off with my hand and the bearing shims were smashed looking which led me to believe the case was shifting side to side. I though that was it------------wrong. Look carefully at the side gear shims inside. One had the shim hanging out which rotated with the side gear and actually hit the case housing. The center of the shim had become enlarged and was shifting side to side. It had been hot too. So, new bearings and cups, new side gear shims, and all is now quiet and fine. I bought a shim kit from Ron Fitzpatrick and located side gear shims at my local transmission shop. I measured all the originals and replaced them with the same size/thickness shims. i sure hated that clunk. Drove me mad. When the clunk happened the nose of the pinion and yoke would shift up and down with the noise while my wife drove it forward and back . Crazy. All fixed now. John
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: May 14, 2020, 11:14:14 AM »

Hard to follow this thread as 4 posts show blank.  Apologies if I'm repeating since I can't tell.

I had excessive clearance, from the Service Manual, in my D41 side gears.  I couldn't find shims from any vendor so I had some made locally.  I hired out to have the pinion re-installed after the first garage unnecessarily tore it down - and damaged one of the cone washers on a spider gear too (had to replace those also).

I would have suspected the U joint also.
Posted by: oldtime
« on: May 14, 2020, 09:21:48 AM »

Not likely much play at the axle shaft splines.
The centerblock spacer normally has nearly 1/4” of side motion.
Maybe the hub is not tightly keyed to the axle shaft ?
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 14, 2020, 09:09:20 AM »

Ring gear is tight. All the lock tabs are intact too. I’ll try to pull the shafts when I get home from work tonight and get some pics of the splines. How much play is there supposed to be in the spacer shaft with the axles out?
Posted by: OnlyOneDR
« on: May 14, 2020, 08:30:56 AM »

Are the ring gear bolts tight?  Dana 41s like to work theirs loose.