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Topic Summary

Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: November 08, 2019, 04:49:13 PM »

It does look like I will be able to get the 29/64" drill through the head but probably not the tap.  Guess I'll just have to use the best care I can to get the tap plumb and then maybe put the stud into the heli-coil through the head once the head is in place.  I'll get there!
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: November 08, 2019, 03:33:09 PM »

Thanks BW, but won't the hole in the head be too small for the drill and tap for the heli-coli?  You aren't saying to drill the head hole wider are you?
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: November 08, 2019, 12:44:15 PM »

Hey Tom,
  Put the head on with a few bolts and use it for a drill/tap guide. BW
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: November 08, 2019, 09:38:07 AM »

Okay, I have all the studs out and two of the holes are loose and need heli-coil inserts.  I'm waiting for a new heli-coil kit today.  Do you guys have any tips on how, exactly, to drill and tap the block as plumb as possible?  Gotta have those studs line up when I put the head on.  (but you all knew that!)
Thanks a lot!
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: October 27, 2019, 06:22:53 PM »

Quote from: mtnman37879 on October 27, 2019, 05:54:31 PM


Are you saying this engine has been newly rebored without removing the head studs first?

No, the cylinders were just honed.
Posted by: mtnman37879
« on: October 27, 2019, 05:54:31 PM »

Quote from: aboyandhisdog on October 20, 2019, 03:08:52 PM
Well, tried the torch to break the seal of the Loctite and no luck there.  Possibly I didn't get it hot enough but I didn't want to press my luck with a newly rebuilt engine.  Oilly, the block had not been decked by the engine builder and now I think I know why...he couldn't get the studs out either!  However I am pretty confident the deck is flat as I never had an issue with the head sitting flat on it before.  All I was wanting to do was to install some long studs in a few places for lifting and for oil filter attachment points.  I can make do leaving it as before so no problem.  Last thing I need is a broken head stud.  Thanks for your input!

Are you saying this engine has been newly rebored without removing the head studs first?
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 21, 2019, 09:35:29 PM »

It's good you decided to use the old studs......it would have been nice if they had come out but it would have been really ugly if one or more had snapped off level with the deck. I'm not sure what you would have had to do then.

If you've not experienced it they snap with absolutely no warning..one second you are applying pressure and the next you have a broken stud...

There is a technique where you weld a nut to the broken stud and if you are lucky it'll come out...the heat from welding and turning the nut does it...but i'm not sure if that would work with loctite....

Snapping off studs is very common in Model A Ford engines....probably all old engines as well. For the Ford the vendors offer a stud that is oversize where it enters the deck. That allows you to drill and tap a new hole for the replacement stud...

there also is a very cool tool but it's really expensive:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ya8fxm89jk
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: October 20, 2019, 03:08:52 PM »

Well, tried the torch to break the seal of the Loctite and no luck there.  Possibly I didn't get it hot enough but I didn't want to press my luck with a newly rebuilt engine.  Oilly, the block had not been decked by the engine builder and now I think I know why...he couldn't get the studs out either!  However I am pretty confident the deck is flat as I never had an issue with the head sitting flat on it before.  All I was wanting to do was to install some long studs in a few places for lifting and for oil filter attachment points.  I can make do leaving it as before so no problem.  Last thing I need is a broken head stud.  Thanks for your input!
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: October 20, 2019, 09:03:19 AM »

Those are not fun. They will rust/corrode where the bottom is in the water and act as a stop as they turn up. If you get them to move, keep soaking and turn them up and down trying to get a bit more of them each time. If they stop , that's when they break if you turn more. New ones should be just hand installed before you put the head on. I put permatex #2 in the threads of the hole and stud both. They like to leak antifreeze up the threads and out on top of the head. Tapping with a hammer on top of the stud can help to break them loose.

Do they need to come out??????? You might check the block for flatness with a straight edge. If good, maybe leave them alone. You said you painted the block so I'm assuming you are not having the surface milled.

I would not tap the threads out with a tap unless you have to. It tends to seat the new stud deeper in the block and you only get half the nut threads engaged. Ask me how I know this. Maybe just chase the threads with a thread chaser.

Another tip is to use two nuts locked together and then a air wrench to turn on them. It puts a straight on torque on the stud like a T hand wrench does. Off to one side with a ratchet puts a side force on them which isn't helpful.

Fingers crossed clear around for you Tom!
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: October 19, 2019, 11:25:17 PM »

Great info, Randy.  It never occurred to me to check out the Loctite website, duh!  I'll try the heat tomorrow.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 19, 2019, 10:29:16 PM »

I've been told that heat is the way to release Loctite...

Here is a blurb from their web site.

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-loctite-2620-red-threadlocker/
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: October 19, 2019, 08:59:48 PM »

I'm having a heck of a time getting my old head studs out.  Seems the PO used the red Loctite.  I've been soaking them in Kroil, and using a "stud extraction" tool and can't seem to budge them.  Just painted the block so am reluctant to use heat on the block, and read somewhere that heating the stud is not the right way to go.  Any ideas?  Thank you!