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Topic Summary

Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: October 17, 2019, 04:05:44 PM »

Maybe a little anti-seize when you go back with the nut?
Posted by: GaryM
« on: September 06, 2019, 11:47:17 PM »

Good job! Is it common to have that much trouble taking that nut off? Was that a 1-3/8 in. socket?
Posted by: squidtone
« on: August 12, 2019, 12:12:04 PM »

Thanks!
I ordered a new nut from Walcks late last night, and I got an email around 9:30 AM this morning it's been shipped!
Nice!
Dave
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: August 11, 2019, 11:10:49 PM »

Wow!  Ingenuity and perseverance!

Time for a victory beverage!
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 11, 2019, 10:43:30 PM »

Amazing that it was that tight.......at least after all that the rest went pretty smoothly....must have been quite an event when it "popped"...you probably looked around a little to see what broke!
Posted by: squidtone
« on: August 11, 2019, 10:22:20 PM »

Alright. Victory. The nut succumbed to a grinder.
I went out and bought a 10 foot piece of black pipe. Sheesh I had to buy a 10 footer. I cut it to 7'.� Yep, 7'.
I rigged up some pieces of scrap metal to keep the outer end of my 3/4" drive extension from moving around.
I put on my 3/4" "T" bar, slipped the 7' pipe over the bar so I could push upward.
I found a better way to stop the crank from turning too: I put a 7/16" bolt between the two center counterweights and the oil pickup boss. (see picture) I was actually worried about using the oil pan rail edge of the block as a stopper.
First go with this rig didn't work. I had plenty of leverage as you can imagine, and it would not give.
I decided to cut away some of the nut.
I measured the diameter of the round section of the nut to be 1-3/8", and I learned that the crank snout is 1" diameter. So I would be able to grind about 3/16" (0.188") from the O.D. of the nut. I ground two sides of the nut about 0.150" each.
I then had another go. I kept upping the "cranks" I made until I was really forcing it, pipe was a big curve, and all of a sudden a huge "pop", and it let go. I then unscrewed the nut by hand. The threads were bone dry, and no rust. Wow.
Thankfully I was able to wiggle the pulley right off too. I might have been just a little perturbed if I had to battle that one. Soooo, all this to get the oil jet. I got the timing cover off easily and found the oil jet I have is indeed 0.070", so I'll be modifying that and reassemble the whole thing, and getting a new nut from Walcks. I miss driving it!
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: August 10, 2019, 01:53:37 PM »

I can visualize that now.  You'll notice I daisy-chained 1/2" and 3/8" to make it out of the bumper.  I wasn't putting any pressure on it, though.

I noticed HD had one but not cheap.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: August 10, 2019, 12:27:03 PM »

I'm using a 16 inch length 3/4 inch extension on my socket. The axle prevents me from having the breaker bar just attach to the socket. So with the 16 inch extension, I rest the end on a piece of 4x4 block at the correct height, then fix the bar so that it is at about 10 o'clock and I can then push down. That of course explains why I can't pull the bar up....no bumper hole to prevent the far end of the extension from lifting up.

I may buy another 3/4 inch extension so I can get to the outside of the bumper. Always can use new tools! But dangit harbor freight doesn't sell much 3/4 inch drive tools.

I'll keep trying and post back!
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: August 10, 2019, 11:08:28 AM »

Dave,
Before you jack up and torque (my concern is the jeep has to be more stable on all for wheels than up on stands- with or without wheels removed), I was earlier suggesting the use of the hole in the bumper.  Is that off too?  Here's why:

My setup to reach the #1 plug hole with my finger while turning for compression


After all, your nut is for a hand crank, right?  Then you can add a long cheater and not have to worry about clearance.  Also, consider longer than 6' (wouldn't it be frustrating to have to go back to get a longer pipe?) and start with a 10'/12' length as you can always choke up on it.  Position the socket on the nut and grab hold.  A longer cheater could also give you better elbow room if you decide to add a friend to double the effort.

The added benefit is this braces your tool so it doesn't twist off the nut due to the offset of where you're applying force.
Posted by: squidtone
« on: August 10, 2019, 08:32:53 AM »

Thanks for the comments. I need them. I've really thought I'd have licked this problem as I escalated my efforts.

I can see the tip of the crankshaft...there is no rust to speak of, and no weldment. I've been kind of shocked that the thin wall of the nut hasn't bent or deformed. They must have used a really good steel alloy for this nut. I'm impressed.

I did try the impact gun(s) after heating, obviously no go.

Cheater bar: Yes, my bar was not long enough. I only have a 3 foot pipe. That gives me about 4 foot bar, so multiply my weight times 4 feet gives me about 600 ft pounds (I'm pushing down with my weight). So the 3/4 impact gun had more torque than that.

I may buy a 6 foot pipe today, and jack the jeep up, put it on jack stands, take the wheel off (clearance for the pipe) then lift the pipe. I think I can lift more than my weight, so say 200 lbs up force on the end of a 6 foot pipe is 1200 ft lbs. If this doesn't work, I'll break out the drills, chisels and grinder.

Question: What is the snout diameter of the crank (I don't want to grind deeper than the OD of the crank snout)

Thanks!
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: August 09, 2019, 04:37:49 PM »

I would've bet on the 3/4" impact wrench.� When you block the crank counter weight, and turn the nut CCW how long is your cheater bar?� I would strongly suggest using extensions to utilize the hole in the front bumper to brace against - then you can add a cheater bar as long as you want without restrictions.� Use tools that are unconditionally guaranteed for life (I can see something breaking).

You heated the outer nut until glowing.� In my limited experience, both the nut/shaft were heated (they may/may not cool at different rates).� Did you try differential cooling on the shaft, i.e. penetrant spray?� Does the shaft even show on a "hand crank" nut?�

Right after heating to glow, did you again try the 3/4" impact?

Have you noticed any weld marks?

Added:  Oh yeah, eye and ear protection will be helpful.

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 09, 2019, 03:16:24 PM »

Could they have used Loctite?

Now I see you tried heat...would have thought that would do it...
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 09, 2019, 03:00:59 PM »

A big breaker bar set against the floor and use the starter to turn the engine?  (Remove hardwood prior to this.)

I don't know.  If a bad-*rear end impact isn't breaking it free with the crank locked, you might have to...

There was an instance at the 2A Page where the nut was welded on by a prior owner.  The guy carefully cut the nut, then chiseled the pieces off. 
Posted by: squidtone
« on: August 09, 2019, 02:32:02 PM »

I experienced very low oil pressure when hot. So, I thought I'd take the pan and timing cover off to get to the oil jet and correct oil jet size if necessary and seal up things as best as possible in general as it needs that too.
Got the pan off, then I attempted the front pulley nut. It will not come off.
I tried two different impact guns, 1/2 inch drive. Nope.
I borrowed a 3/4 inch impact gun (this is a big boy). Nope.
I tried a 3/4 inch drive bar with a cheater bar. Nope.
I tried heating the nut till it glows (at least the outer ring part...it's a hand crank style nut) Nope.
I wedged the a crank counterweight with hardwood for all this effort by the way...the crank is fixed not to turn.
Also, I am applying pressure CCW.

I would like folks to share any anecdotes whether semi mythical or fact based on how this nut can be removed.
I think I may have to resort to drilling and grinding and hope I don't gouge the crank snout.

Thanks,
Dave