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Topic Summary

Posted by: Kyle
« on: October 15, 2018, 12:18:18 AM »

Well not sure where my old spring is down in there or if it would be a problem to leave bits of it flying around if I could put a new spring in through that inspection cover.  I have my transmission tunnel cover off and the inspection plate as well.  I though there would be more access, but it was smaller than I thought.
Posted by: stony
« on: October 13, 2018, 07:11:25 PM »

I think gunslinger is right!� I have my shift cover off so I can access my bellhousing access cover.� I took out one of the bolts ( the other is loose because I have not tightened it yet) and slid it open.� I can reach in and feel the carrier return spring no problem.� I am sure you can get one end of the spring in no problem, might need to make a tool to get the other end hooked up.� You will want to tie a string to it, because if you drop it you are done.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: October 13, 2018, 06:40:03 PM »

I was looking at mine the other day, I have the tranny and bell housing out for a tranny problem, but it seems to me that you should be able to replace the carrier spring by removing the inspection cover on the bell housing.  Other guys have done more of this than I but it would be much easier to do it through the inspection cover than pulling the bell housing down. 

I like the welding idea.
Posted by: Kyle
« on: October 12, 2018, 01:58:11 AM »

Thanks guys.  Saw a video or two where people would remove the trans skid plate, guess that would let you then drop it down where you could get access, but man those bolts have been in there since '49!  I like the bar being welded across the two bolt heads.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 10, 2018, 03:43:00 PM »

Unbolt the front motor mounts.  Lift the engine with a jack...as high as you can.Unbolt the drive train support rail.   Remove the front motor mounts, then drop the drive train/engine down as far as you can.  This will give you a little more space.

A re-assembly mod that someone suggested to me...and I will implement the next time I pull an L-134:

Weld both top bolts to a piece of flat bar steel.  Essentially link the two bolts together.  No longer will you need to hold the bolt on the back side.  No more spinning.  No more fiddling with a wrench on the back side. All efforts shift to simply setting the nuts.  Still a pain in the *rear end, but much more manageable.

Tim




Posted by: stony
« on: October 10, 2018, 09:29:05 AM »

Yeah, just put that bolt IN, 1/8 of a turn at a time.  If you have a torch I would get a cheap 9/16 wrench and bend and grind it to fit on that back side bolt head.  I think I would use the box end and grind and cut it to fit. 
Posted by: Kyle
« on: October 10, 2018, 05:44:42 AM »

thanks, that is an option
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: October 10, 2018, 03:23:05 AM »

Hi, the previous owner on mine smashed an ugly hole in the floor to gain access. I think this is quite common.
I still could not reach mine so I undid the gearbox cross frame mounts and lowered the gearbox on a trolley jack. This gave me enough room to get to that bolt.

I took a chance and did not replace it when I put it all back together ....if it goes "Pop" I will let you know. :)
Posted by: Kyle
« on: October 10, 2018, 02:30:27 AM »

Do any of you guys have any tricks or recommendations for removing the upper bellhousing bolt on the drivers side?  I removed the engine and replaced it maybe 8 years ago and I remember making some "hooligan tools" by bending one 9/16 box end wrench and cutting down the length on another...  now I need a throw-out bearing carrier spring...  I have everything ready to remove the engine but that one pesky bolt!
Thanks