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Topic Summary

Posted by: DavidB
« on: November 05, 2017, 10:02:27 AM »

I have not installed the engine yet, still trying to decide on which head gasket would be best for my application. The deck and head really need machining, but I am not going that route yet. I really need to get it running and decide which path I'll be taking once I can use it around the farm.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: November 04, 2017, 11:12:09 PM »

Quote
Would some slightly longer than usual "headless" bolts threaded into the bell housing act as alignment guides for the engine installation?

I've read that it can help....I've used them on the oil pan and a Model A side cover...really helps keep the gaskets aligned...

Have you tried putting the engine in yet?� You have to fiddle around quite a bit but when everything aligns it should just slip into place.

Remember to have the transmission in neutral so the shaft can turn and align the splines....you may have to turn it with a long screwdriver or something if you don't have the shift tower off...



Posted by: elawson
« on: November 04, 2017, 11:03:31 PM »

Would some slightly longer than usual "headless" bolts threaded into the bell housing act as alignment guides for the engine installation?
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 18, 2017, 05:30:13 PM »

Quote
Thanks for the reply.
I'll look up the sequence and specs.

You might think about getting one of these if you don't already have one...

http://walcks4wd.com/repair-manual-1950-64-cj3a-cj3.html

My copy gets plenty of use.......
Posted by: DavidB
« on: October 18, 2017, 01:02:48 PM »

Thanks for the reply.
I'll look up the sequence and specs.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 18, 2017, 12:56:47 PM »

I've always had good success with the Felpro (Made in the USA) head gasket coated  lightly in copper spray.  It is a composite/steel combination.

Many in the Willys world seem to like the 100% copper head gasket offered by a few of the better Willys parts vendors.  They are a bit pricey for me when considering my success with the Felpo gasket. 

There is a specific order used when torquing the head bolts/studs/nuts.  Follow this rule.  There is a map available on the world wide web.

Also, after the replacement, get the engine up to full temperature, let it cool back down, then re-torque the head.  Some folks forget to do this important step.

 
Posted by: DavidB
« on: October 17, 2017, 08:03:48 PM »

Great idea, I had not thought of that...
Another question for you guys...
I'll be installing a new Head gasket, as the old one was seeping a little bit of coolant in each cylinder. Is there a preferred one, or anything special, like copper coat y'all would recommend for the slick side of the gasket ?
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 17, 2017, 06:53:30 PM »

Remember to use that opening in the bell housing to help align things when the time comes....
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 17, 2017, 03:46:20 PM »

Thanks David.  There are some terrific restorations here that put mine to shame.  Check out the �Your Stock 3A Project� section for some inspiration.

There are lots of really smart 3A people here.  And we all enjoy helping people with all things �Flat Fender�.  Good luck with your task.
Posted by: DavidB
« on: October 17, 2017, 02:18:58 PM »

Thanks Randy and athawk11 for the tips..
I was hoping that my hunch was correct..
athawk11, that's a work of art you got right there. I do appreciate your attention to detail..
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 17, 2017, 12:26:42 PM »

I did pull the grill and and radiator.� Randy must be more "steady" than I.� A couple tricky issues to deal with....

The two top bolts holding the engine to the bell housing are difficult to get at.� Support the engine with a jack from below.� Remove the front motor mounts then let the engine slope downward as much as possible.� This will give you a little more wrench room.

At re-assembly: Re-alignment of the transmission input shaft through the clutch disc is sometimes a challenge.� I don't wish this task on my worst foe.� You just need to get the angles right and the splines on the shaft in the correct orientation to match the clutch disc.� Using the lower engine to bell housing bolts as guides will also help.� Number 1 rule...Don't force it back together.� When aligned correctly, it will just slide right in.

�
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 16, 2017, 10:56:11 PM »

Yes, you can remove just the engine....I think it's the best way as the transmission and transfer case add a lot of bulk and weight....

You will need to remove the radiator of course...

Removing the grill and fenders makes it easier but is not necessary.....I didn't, and my lift cleared the grill by about an inch!

Randy
Posted by: DavidB
« on: October 16, 2017, 09:45:18 PM »

Guys,
Is it possible ( or doable) to pull just the engine, unbolted from the Bell housing?
This is on a 51 model with a 4 cyl. Flathead.
I really don't want the transfer case and transmission out at this point.
Thanks for your comments.