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Topic Summary

Posted by: Lost_Biscuit
« on: June 02, 2017, 07:52:41 PM »



I just finished repairing my switch. I didn't catch that thread you just posted before pulling mine apart. That's a good one! I'm not sure why it didn't appear in my searches. I was going to use the nail trick, too, but decided to reuse the original pin. I doubt I'll be using the heater all that much.

The contacts on the rivets were the big issue for me. I laid the switch in a shallow solution of vinegar/water solution for about an hour then blew them off with an air compressor. I cleaned the remaining contacts. That got the switch working for me. I'll be doing a write up on eWillys about it.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: June 02, 2017, 05:30:58 PM »

Here is another thread...several pictures...

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1371081304/0
Posted by: Lost_Biscuit
« on: June 02, 2017, 03:14:42 PM »

I found this older thread while working on my switch. The photo mentioned by Ryan_M is no longer available on the 2A site, but I did find another useful site regarding the switch and vintage heaters in general:

EDIT ... meant to add this link: http://devestechnet.com/Home/HeaterRestore

http://devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/12VUpgrade/12VUpgrade0008lg.jpg
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: December 01, 2012, 09:31:42 PM »

Sean just popped his apart. Looking at the photo with it apart it looks like the dimple on the case lines up with the rivet on the switch lever. If so then it should POP apart. I may check mine out to see if it is working and then POP it apart.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 01, 2012, 08:02:02 PM »

Just found this now while searching for something else. Scroll down on the thread and there is a pic of this switch opened right up:

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/heater-hose-routing_topic11223.html
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 01, 2012, 01:55:57 PM »

I spent some time trying to bend and clean the contact rivets - and ended up snapping a piece of Bakelite off in the process. Note to self: never work on tedious and fragile small parts if your mood dictates that lack of patience could in any way adversely affect your ability to perform the task at hand.

I was able to super glue the broken Bakelite back together but the switch has been pushed to the back of the workbench for awhile. I will update again if I make any further progress (or cause additional destruction).
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: December 01, 2012, 12:48:27 PM »

I've never taken one apart, but my sense is that if it is a throw away part you run little risk in taking it apart to see what is going on inside.  If it were me, I'd try to remove the mounting bolt first, it looks like if you can get that out of the way, probably by screwing it out, the next step would be to grind off the head of the rivet that appears to hold the housing to what I would guess is an internal mount.  If that is the case the housing should lift off the assembly going straight up over the switch.  It looks like the housing is bakelite plastic, which is a good hard plastic but it has little flexibility, so be careful, that stuff doesn't just break it kind of shatters.

Keep us posted, love to know what you find out.

Todd
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: November 26, 2012, 08:38:02 AM »

By removing the center pin, you should be able to open it. Does the pole are loose?

Those switch are not glued normally.

Clean all pole to get a very good contact.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 25, 2012, 03:09:26 PM »

I looked at mine and I think the case is glued together. I don't see any tabs to bend or any other way to separate the case. From what I can tell it's a throw away part when they were made. However someone may have figured out how to get it apart without destroying it.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 25, 2012, 01:13:49 PM »

My Harrison switch is not working. Does anyone know if it is possible to open this up and repair it without destroying the thing in the process? I realize I have an over-sized fuse installed but it's the only one I had handy. It is just there to test continuity which I am getting between fuse clamps but not at the points where the wires screw in and I have tried all switch settings. Any suggestions?