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Topic Summary

Posted by: specialty
« on: May 09, 2016, 07:49:23 PM »

Camber fixed. After replacing the messed up spring mounts on the side that the camber was terrible and replacing the bushings all the way around all is well. Someone over the years really did a bang up job on the left side spring mounts. It was like they just welded stuff around the spring loops to keep them from popping out. It must have made horrible noises slamming around in there. Anyway when I bolted up the new u-bolts all was good. It has about the same camber now as CJ-5's on page 1 judging by the pictures.
I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions.

Ron
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 09, 2016, 12:58:52 PM »

Right now I have already bolted everything and I guess I will leave as it is for now. Thanks for the information and offer on the tool. I may down the road get into some of that though. This is just my practice 3A !!! Getting my springs back on this week I hope.
Posted by: johnrb3b
« on: May 09, 2016, 12:52:51 PM »

If you're interested in riveting, here are some links to the CJ-3B page - mostly about riveting the rear crossmember but still useful.

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/ar/t2762.htm

http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/ar/t5377.htm
Posted by: JimVillers
« on: May 08, 2016, 04:10:07 PM »

Ron .... It takes the riveting tool from Walack ($70) and an air chisel.  After practicing a couple of times on some scrap metal, you will get the hang of it. 

Bolts will work well, you will just miss the fun of learning to rivet.  I'll loan you the too and some rivets if you want to give it a try (190SLJim@cox.net).
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 08, 2016, 02:38:44 PM »

Does it take any special tools? I was thinking about using grade 8, 3/8 bolts with lock washers and a few spot of weld for assurance yet would still be easy to remove with a cut-off wheel. I got the 2 old ones off today and have some welding on the frame to do but almost ready to put the new ones on. The rear blocks seem to be fine, just new bushings. I made new bushings for them out of knylotron.

thanks, Ron
Posted by: JimVillers
« on: May 08, 2016, 01:13:51 PM »

Specialty ...... I also had to remove the old spring hangers and replace them.  I drilled out the rivets and ground off the weld.  I installed the new hangers in the same maner of the original, rivets and then welding.  Riveting was an interesting experience that I recommend.  Not that hard and they are surprisingly strong. 

Give riveting a try.
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 07, 2016, 09:10:49 PM »

Quote
Post a couple pictures of the knuckles if you can...maybe one of us will spot something......

Good idea. I will do that on Monday and maybe someone  will see it. I thought maybe I didn't have one of the races seated right but after thinking about it I don't think the pin would ever go in if that were the case. Right now I am working on the front springs trying to fix messes I never knew I had just replacing bushings. Looks like over the last 60 years lot's of nasty things were done like welds done at places you can't get to leaving me no choice but cutting a couple spring mounts off and replacing. It's amazing some of the rigs people can come up with. If as much effort was taken to fix it right as all the wasted time and effort to just to rig things up  this 3A would be mint.   :-/
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 07, 2016, 08:35:20 PM »

Post a couple pictures of the knuckles if you can...maybe one of us will spot something......
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 05, 2016, 01:02:01 PM »

Guess that's what I will have to do.
Posted by: JimVillers
« on: May 05, 2016, 12:52:45 PM »

55-CJ ..... I thought that your picture of the front camber bearing looked like the cap was over a little from mine (picture attached).

If it was my jeep, I would just pull the top and bottom bearing covers to inspect the bearing.  I can't imagine that the axle tube is bent.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 05, 2016, 08:40:10 AM »

I suppose the ball at the end of the axle could be bent...but that would have to be a pretty severe impact.

Posted by: specialty
« on: May 05, 2016, 03:03:54 AM »

Quote
Here is another long shot guess...

Are the knuckles identical?� I vaguely remember there being a couple different types.

I think they are. I never noticed any difference but they do have tags on them on the seal bolts. Not sure if that will tell me anything but I will see if the numbers are legible and post them.
Assembly to me seems pretty much straight forward and would hard to mess the thing up. If something was wrong it seems like it wouldn't work as smooth as it does. I really hate to pull this thing back apart to check because I have already filled it with that nasty Chevron diluted  flowing grease. It seems to be the ticket on this as far as lubrication but sure is a mess and hard to get it in the fill plug. I used a grease gun but it seems to want to bypass the gun seals and pump as much out the back of the gun as it does the front. Tried to different guns, one being almost new, with the same results, a greasy mess. Guess that's part of the fun huh?
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 05, 2016, 02:48:40 AM »

I will put the square on my wheel today and post a picture. I would say just by eye it is about a inch out at the top. A buddy thought maybe after it's run maybe it would settle in but I doubt it since it's supported by the king pins and fairly rigid. My main concern is how it will drive and what it will do to the tire wear. Any ideas on the effect this will have on steering and wear?
Posted by: squidtone
« on: May 04, 2016, 10:39:11 PM »

Oh and I just did some math with my SOH CAH TOA (anybody remember their trigonometry with that 'glyph?),
and I calculate that a 1.5 degree camber of a 30 inch diameter wheel/tire would tilt it out at the top by 0.78"

someone check my math.....
Posted by: squidtone
« on: May 04, 2016, 10:30:02 PM »

I just measured my front camber on my '50.
I could not get my camber tool directly on the wheel as this old fashioned vehicle actually has hubs that stick out beyond the wheel rim!
So I used a straightedge on a section of tire sidewall, avoiding  the lower tire bulge by the ground, and I measured +1.49 deg on the passenger side, and +0.6 deg on the driver side.
these measurements are not very accurate because my tires are bulging, crusty and cracked, and I did not level the jeep at all. But, it's a data point for your consideration.