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Topic Summary

Posted by: oops1215
« on: April 29, 2016, 08:43:21 PM »

Are those side steps available in the states?
Posted by: Mark W.
« on: March 10, 2016, 01:10:12 PM »

I took everyones advise and bought Classic Enterprises parts I bought everything from the Cowl seam to the Cowl seam except the Fender boxes and the floor (I am doing something different for the floor) And the parts appear to be extremely well made But even with Classic there are some WTF's the Gas tank fill hole was scribed on the right side panel!!! and while this is not necessarily Classics fault one of the Rear Side panels showed up with the curve at the top pushed in to far so instead of a 90 degree its more like a 110 degree curve. I am sure this happened in shipping and will only be a few min to fix (hopefully). I have not assembled any of the parts yet that will show just how good they are. I do really wish the Lower cowl sections had come with either the Blind nuts for the fenders or at least the holes punched. Though I guess I may be glad they aren't when it comes to alignment.

At this point besides the original fender boxes (which I maybe replacing the sides on with DIY panels) the Tunnel, Firewall Top Cowl and Dash. I bought with shipping $1100.00 in New Classic Ent. metal and for the parts I am DIYing (the flat front floor the top of the tool box and rear floor) another $225.00 in local sourced steel some luckily from a used place.�

we will see how my plan works out.
Posted by: CJPilot
« on: March 09, 2016, 07:19:32 PM »

I don�t know where to begin.  I used to build truck equipment bodies and though �How hard can it be to drill a few holes in a tub ? �  After a couple of years plugging away at it, I reworked my repo body kit to the point of actually painting it. I don�t think I�d buy another one.  Unless things change Classic repair panels would be the go.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: March 03, 2016, 11:27:57 PM »

Quote
I feel your pain. Currently MD Juan is the only one that makes complete bodys. I aggree, fix the original if at all possible or buy another original Jeep tub/body. On the shifter not being centered, my son figured out how far it needed to be moved, and oval cut the hole out, turned it around, and welded it back in. The list is long and painful of ill, non fitting items. John

John There is a long list of corrections that I needed to make and the tub is STILL not right. The original hood does not fit well. The fenders do not fit well. I had to take pieces off my other two parts tubs to complete the body. And I used my original windshield, hood, grille and tailgate. The only this new was the tub. I spent about $10K and the tub, fixes, body work and paint. I would probably have saved about $5K if I had started with Classic Enterprises parts.

I am finishing my CJ2A. I will begin looking for a good original tub and eventually replace the MD Juan tub.
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: March 02, 2016, 06:41:13 AM »

I feel your pain. Currently MD Juan is the only one that makes complete bodys. I aggree, fix the original if at all possible or buy another original Jeep tub/body. On the shifter not being centered, my son figured out how far it needed to be moved, and oval cut the hole out, turned it around, and welded it back in. The list is long and painful of ill, non fitting items. John
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: March 01, 2016, 10:35:15 PM »

I once asked Lamonte at Classic Enterprises why they didn't just sell the whole tub.....

He said that I wouldn't like the shipping charges...

I thought that maybe it was worth a try....


But I agree, buying the parts from Classic and assembling your own tub might be the answer....
Posted by: Mike S
« on: March 01, 2016, 06:10:26 PM »

If MD juan would SERIALIZE the tubs and record all changes by serial number range, it would help people like me. I spent a lot of money 'fixing issues' because I was sold an older tub. If I had better information I could avoided the problems and would have saved 2X the cost of the tub I bought.

As it is, I believe that I would have been money ahead to buy all the parts from Classic Enterprises and built a tub from the components. Seriously.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 27, 2015, 08:09:14 PM »

GlynB: In either case it looks like an earth strap will be needed to enable the fuel gauge to work properly.

I've learned recently that this tank ground is achieved with the steel fuel line and a tub mounted clip just below the foot well on the underside of the tub.  Don't be shy about adding more grounds. Extra certainly can't hurt anything.

Tim 
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: April 27, 2015, 07:42:42 PM »

Quote
Does this fit on the inside or outside of the tub opening?


Both. It installs like a giant grommet. It's a delicate dance getting the filler neck to fit through the hole in the tub while massaging this seal into place.
Posted by: GlynB
« on: April 27, 2015, 05:46:09 PM »

Thanks guys

The link is really useful.  I did consider making some wooden duckboards for the footwells and I imagine I could fashion one to extend under the fuel tank - this might also provide a suitable solution.  In either case it looks like an earth strap will be needed to enable the fuel gauge to work properly.

Asking one question seems to raise another - looking at the diagram on the link page and reading aboyandhisdog's post, it seems there is a rubber seal around the neck of the fuel tank? Does this fit on the inside or outside of the tub opening? and how is it fastened in place?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 27, 2015, 12:34:06 PM »

Hi Fellas!

Here is an information page discussing this material.  I can't tell if the original is welting or some type of felt, but it is described as "anti-squeak" material.

http://www.cj3a.info/tech/gastank.html

This stuff is available at most Willys vendors, but I did what Tom did.  I used long black rubber strips.  (commercial head seal...from the garage door industry)

Tim
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: April 27, 2015, 11:32:12 AM »

This is a good question, Glyn.  I placed mine on a couple of long strips of rubber, the thickness of which placed the tank spout in the right spot so that I could get the rubber spacer around the spout correctly.  As I recall, small differences in thickness made quite a change as to where the spout landed.  I too would like to know what Willys had in mind for this.
Posted by: GlynB
« on: April 27, 2015, 10:38:52 AM »

..and the new tub.  Bright sunshine makes it difficult to take a good photo at the moment so I'll post more some other time
Posted by: GlynB
« on: April 27, 2015, 10:37:01 AM »

Here's a photo of the Jeep's new tub, plus a photo of the piece of wood on which the fuel tank was mounted in the old tub!
Posted by: GlynB
« on: April 27, 2015, 06:53:06 AM »

Hi everyone

I'm in the middle of test fitting my new CJ3A tub from MD Juan and I'm really pleased with the results.  It has taken a bit of effort to get the wings - sorry, fenders - to line up and I have had to enlarge the holes for the pedals and transfer gearbox levers but otherwise its looking pretty good.

My question is, what is the fuel tank mounted on? In my original tub (which had been patched many times) it sat on a piece of wood broken off - literally - from a 3/4 inch plank.  I'm guessing this wasn't original spec(!) so what should it sit on? I'll post some photos later.

Thanks