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Topic Summary

Posted by: trijjicon
« on: March 29, 2016, 03:54:58 PM »

I thank you guys for offering up some sage advice. I spoke with 1 mechanic about this but could not get in touch with the other yet. Got some more parts to put on & more parts on the way. Got this Jeep on the 8th of this month & still haven't been off-road with it yet. Tell me what's wrong with this picture. :P I know my time is coming...must b patient. 
Posted by: specialty
« on: March 27, 2016, 06:32:29 PM »

Quote
TY Specialty:� As for parts that price range isn't too bad. I will ask this mechanic how much & at least give him an opportunity. I know of another mechanic I can go to if this other guy is just too high. Of course, I may just give it a shot myself.� I can take things apart but am no good at putting them back together. Plus risking ruining other parts of the system cuz I put it in upside down/backwards or whatever.

Those prices were what I found searching around various places like Ebay, Geek, etc. Seems most have the same parts but at different prices and shipping cost. They vary. The guy with the best bearing price may be higher on the seals. Researching has saved me a lot of money on all the things I have bought so far. I also noticed Advance carries many of the parts and if you use a promocode they can usually win the price battle. You might save a lot of money if the mechanic lets you supply the parts doing the footwork on the best buys.
Posted by: specialty
« on: March 27, 2016, 06:19:41 PM »

Good point Tim. Having 2 leaves 1 for reference in case you get into a bind. I used to do that when I worked at the gas station doing drum brakes. Like does the spring go this way or does it go that way? Another thing is with all the assembly parts diagrams on this subject it would be hard to go wrong with it.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 27, 2016, 04:48:03 PM »

As Specialty mentions, this is not an overly complicated repair.  If reassembly is your weak point, I suggest taking a sequence of photos as you take stuff apart.  Have them handy when it's time to reassemble.  It can really help.  Also, with the knuckles, there are two.  Do one at a time.  You will have the other knuckle to refer back to if you get stuck.

Tim
Posted by: trijjicon
« on: March 27, 2016, 02:58:17 PM »

TY Specialty:  As for parts that price range isn't too bad. I will ask this mechanic how much & at least give him an opportunity. I know of another mechanic I can go to if this other guy is just too high. Of course, I may just give it a shot myself.  I can take things apart but am no good at putting them back together. Plus risking ruining other parts of the system cuz I put it in upside down/backwards or whatever.
Posted by: specialty
« on: March 27, 2016, 01:11:08 PM »

I have taken mine apart for new seals and bearings however mainly for precautionary reasons so I wouldn't have to deal with it later after I get my 3A on the road. After putting it back together I noticed I still had play when moving the wheel up and down. One side was repaired after just removing 1 shim. The other not so lucky after removing 2 shims. I now have the kit to rebuild both sides along with new inner seals. If you have any mechanical skills it's not really that bad of a job. Dirty job but not bad. Just take one piece out at a time and keep them in order as you go. You have 2 spindle nuts, 2 washers, 2 bearings, and a seal inside the hub. Best to replace the hub sill while you're in there along with the inner axle seal and the outer knuckle seals. If the races shows any pitting or wear at all that is a indication to replace the bearings along with the races. If good clean and repack the bearings. The steering knuckle bearings and races will need replaced if you have much of any movement with the wheel off the ground firmly shaking it up and down side to side. Check to see if the play is possibly a tie rod end, bad bell crank assy. or loose drag link. If so replace those first or if drag link has play there is a kit to rebuild it, inexpensive, and do that first to see if that takes care of the play. If not proceed to the knuckle bearings but check first to be sure the spindle nuts are set properly. Loose spindle nuts can appear to be a knuckle problem.
One more thing if you didn't know there are post and illustrations on here about doing this job along with other task that take the guesswork out of it. I use it all the time and have learned a lot.
Now for the other question, how much? Just the knuckle kit consisting of the 4 quality bearings (I think Timken), races, and shims will run you close to $100. The hub bearings if needed about the same. Then you have the seals, etc and the proper lubricant. Don't let them fill it with grease, it won't hold up, although some do. I would say $350 to $400 but labor in your area could drive it up. Try it yourself. No special tools are required and follow the instructions on here. Although a $5 spindle socket off Ebay helps a lot. Others will chime in that know more about it than I do and can help you out. good Luck!
Posted by: trijjicon
« on: March 27, 2016, 09:07:18 AM »

Most of this "brief problem" was due to the fact I had the transfer case "In" & at high speed going down the Hiway. I've yet to even shift any of those levers & wasn't paying attention. I've since learned that I most likely have a king pin bearing/shims/seals problem. I read thru the FAQs about this. What I need to know  now is...how much should I expect to pay a knowledgeable mechanic for these repairs? Ballpark figure of course, for I haven't dealt with these guys yet.