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Topic Summary

Posted by: specialty
« on: January 18, 2016, 10:14:29 AM »

Thanks Carl.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: January 18, 2016, 10:11:02 AM »

Glad to see you have the problem fixed and I hope it stays this way.
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 07, 2016, 07:42:33 PM »

Finally got it fixed. This morning I went and got a new coil with a internal resistor and a new condensor and points in case these were fried. Also got new fuel line from pump to carb with a see thru filter so I could see it pump. I also ran a 3/8 new rubber line to the gas can. I runs like a sewing machine now. After thinking about it last night I noticed it ran better when cold and acted up after running a few minutes which from messing with newer cars told me something electrical was breaking down once it got warm. I am not sure which one of these fixes actually fixed it but I think it was the coil with the external ballast resistor causing the problem. From what I understand these need to be matched up for proper operation. Not knowing the ohms of the coil or the resister since they came from a national parts store I had no idea what they were.
I really want to thank all of you guys for helping me and each of you helped a lot. Special thanks to Scoutpilot for his patience with a rookie like myself and his input. He is surely one of the best on this subject. God bless you all! Really great people.
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 06, 2016, 08:59:37 PM »

Quote
� The ignition timing may very well be off, but if it was off enough to cause the engine to not run it would be off ALL the time, and the engine would not run at all. The timing can not be "close enough" for the engine to run, then change after a minute or two, and cause the engine to die.
� Check the things that have been suggested:
� Fuel delivery- "drawing out of a five-gallon can" or words to that effect - A clean can? Drawing from the bottom, or siphoning over the top? You must be using a piece of hose, is it connected to steel line or hose-barbs anywhere, and is it air-tight? Is the hose large enough, and not kinked or twisted, etc?
� Condenser - it can be tested, but no one has the equipment to test one anymore, so the only test is to substitute a known good one. And a new one may not be good. Great, huh? This has been a big problem lately. If you have another vehicle with a condenser, or know someone who does, maybe you can borrow one. A good, "wrong" condenser will be better than a "right", bad one.
� Coil? again, about the only way to test is to substitute a known good one, or you could check for spark immediately after the engine shuts down. Ballast resistor - Could expand with heat and open a poor connection. See if it still passes current after shut-down.
� Don't worry about timing now. It's OK part of the time, it's OK all the time. Get this thing to run continuously, then check the timing.� �BW
Actually I am running a vacuum hose to the can making sure it is submerged. I rebuilt the distributor today with new bushings and freed up the centrifugal advance. You are right, the timing wasn't the issue. When I first cranked it it ran fairly good so I thought I had it solved. after running for a few minutes it was back to running erratically again. Much better with new bushings but not right. I recently had bought another 12 volt coil not realizing it needed a external resister. I added a ballast resister from the parts store. could it be the coil is not matched with the resistor and after running a while breaking down and causing my problem? It's like it running out of gas. When I go to rev it it wants to sputter and die unless I work the throttle real fast giving it lots of fuel while it's sputters and shakes. Should I just get a internal 12 volt resistor coil with original 3A points and condenser so it;s all matched up? 
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: January 06, 2016, 08:18:32 PM »

  The ignition timing may very well be off, but if it was off enough to cause the engine to not run it would be off ALL the time, and the engine would not run at all. The timing can not be "close enough" for the engine to run, then change after a minute or two, and cause the engine to die.
  Check the things that have been suggested:
  Fuel delivery- "drawing out of a five-gallon can" or words to that effect - A clean can? Drawing from the bottom, or siphoning over the top? You must be using a piece of hose, is it connected to steel line or hose-barbs anywhere, and is it air-tight? Is the hose large enough, and not kinked or twisted, etc?
  Condenser - it can be tested, but no one has the equipment to test one anymore, so the only test is to substitute a known good one. And a new one may not be good. Great, huh? This has been a big problem lately. If you have another vehicle with a condenser, or know someone who does, maybe you can borrow one. A good, "wrong" condenser will be better than a "right", bad one.
  Coil? again, about the only way to test is to substitute a known good one, or you could check for spark immediately after the engine shuts down. Ballast resistor - Could expand with heat and open a poor connection. See if it still passes current after shut-down.
  Don't worry about timing now. It's OK part of the time, it's OK all the time. Get this thing to run continuously, then check the timing.   BW
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 06, 2016, 06:59:55 AM »

Quote
[size=12]
Quote
I didn't actually cut anything off the linkage, I cut off the engine. Should have made myself clearer on that, sorry. I had the linkage for the idle screw on wrong so I cut it off and put it where it should be so I could idle it down.

Now I�m concerned. Please post a photo of this area?[/size][/font][/b]

What I did was I had the tang on the wrong side of where the small screw goes in. It has 3 positions to put this little screw in and having the tang on the wrong side of the screw made the idle screw� to far away from the stop to do any good. Got that corrected now and that part is now fine. Now I need to get my distributor freed up and from my research that may take awhile. You know of any quick tricks to get it� freed up? I wanted to check timing and make sure the bushings were okay thinking that they may be possibly worn and causing my issues. That along with the timing being off enough to cause my problems. I am just trying to go through a process of elimination on things I can do myself and need to be checked anyway. I have a friend coming over who has the gauges and know how to check the other things you suggested but getting him on the ball is another subject. Going to work on that frozen distributor some today so when he does show up I am ready. I am persistent.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: January 06, 2016, 05:09:35 AM »

[size=12]
Quote
I had the linkage for the idle screw on wrong so I cut it off and put it where it should be so I could idle it down.

Now I�m concerned. Please post a photo of this area?[/size][/font][/b]
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:55:24 PM »

Quote
Make sure your your rubber fuel lines, if any (usually running from the fuel pump to the fender mounted hard line) are not kinked or restricted in any way. At one point I thought I had a carb issue only to later realize a twisted fuel line was allowing enough fuel to pass through in order to start but not run at high RPM's for very long.
right now tub is off and running out of a 5 gallon can. thanks
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:51:50 PM »

Quote
The spring loaded knob is a oiler. You can dribble a drop of oil in there every 1000 miles or so.
Not to sound stupid but what does it oil? Thanks

Trying to educate myself on these CJ3A's so I searched it and saw what it does. Right now my distributor is frozen hard so I need to get it freed up.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: January 05, 2016, 05:19:11 PM »

The spring loaded knob is a oiler. You can dribble a drop of oil in there every 1000 miles or so.
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 05, 2016, 05:06:27 PM »

update. Went back a hour after sending you the last post and turned the key and it ran! Ran I would say about 2000 to 2300 RPM nice and smooth with nothing but an occasional puff. I had the linkage for the idle screw on wrong so I cut it off and put it where it should be so I could idle it down. It runs much longer than it did before but it stutters and eventually cuts off. Like it maybe some sort of intermittent problem. I know now that it will run and run well just got to figure out why it runs so erratically. Checked my wire connections making sure my temporary wire job was tight and will do like you said with new condenser tomorrow. Still have not gotten the distributor to move yet or figured out what that spring loaded knob is on the side of it for. But I am seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully!
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 05, 2016, 04:55:25 PM »

Quote
[size=12]It is more like that the condenser was on its way out when you bought the Jeep. Replace it with the correct unit listed. But purchase two or three as the likelihood of failure in modern production equipment straight out of the box is high. The condenser doesn�t really care what the voltage is.[/size][/b]
Now I want to try to set the timing but I can't get the distributor to move. What is that round knob on the side of it that is spring loaded when it's pulled out? Loosened the clamp and tapped on it still no move. Also My bellhousing cover has no hole any where to set it. Can't see any marks on the crank pulley so I was going to set it by ear until I can get a friend who is a mechanic to set it with a dwell meter or something. After all the work with bushing the carb and making the metering rod tool to 2.781 like you suggested it still only runs for a short time. I feel fairly confident the carb is right so now I am leaning to a electrical problem or timing. I also thi nk the oil pump at one time was put in 180 degrees off because the plug wires are opposite of what they should be.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: January 05, 2016, 03:16:33 PM »

[size=12]It is more like that the condenser was on its way out when you bought the Jeep. Replace it with the correct unit listed. But purchase two or three as the likelihood of failure in modern production equipment straight out of the box is high. The condenser doesn�t really care what the voltage is.[/size][/b]
Posted by: specialty
« on: January 05, 2016, 08:57:03 AM »

Scoutpilot, Thanks for the parts list. I will print that off and put it in my folder for now and future reference. Actually since I don't have the tub on the chassis right now the only things not 12volt are the condenser and the starter. Could the condenser since it is on 12 volt system be causing my issues? I know I have read and have had old Chevy trucks that ran the starter for years with no problem. But what about the ignition? I did install a 12 volt coil with a external ballast since the one I bought said it required one.  Would it mess up the condenser right off the bat and cause this? I did use a 3 wire setup so I wouldn't have to deal with the single wire charging issues. Thanks
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: January 05, 2016, 05:00:20 AM »

[size=12]I�m pleased you found some success. Be sure and check out the videos there for setting your float, metering rod, etc. However, it is not a good long-term plan to mix twelve volt and 6 volt. Rule of thumb on a 12V conversion? Change everything, if you can afford it, or change nothing. For the correct part numbers check out this list. http://www.thecj2apage.com/NAPA.pdf
The part numbers may have changed but any decent counter guy, or gal, can cross reference. Don�t let them get away with just looking on the computer if they can�t find it. ALL shops have the books.[/size][/b]