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Topic Summary

Posted by: SSG T
« on: October 16, 2015, 07:21:11 AM »

I got the starter back. I shaved down the bolt that holds the push button about 1/8 and adjusted the button down all the way. SO far no grinding! Only issue is you need to push the starter button down pretty hard sometimes. But overall I'm happy I get to keep it stock. Thanks for the help guys.
Posted by: LeeC
« on: September 29, 2015, 05:37:19 PM »

I'm going to put a modern starter on mine and thought of putting an electric starter button under the floor behind the pedal just for looks. I want a good running driver that I don't have to fool with.
Posted by: OkieFarmJeep
« on: September 25, 2015, 01:30:10 PM »

I have to really push hard and fast in on the foot starter and it spins right up BUT if I get lazy and don't, it will grind. That usually gets the right amount of push from me really quick as I hate that sound.  I have looked at my linkage and everything looks good and tight- not worn out.  I too don't really want to loose the "kick" starter.  The old way is a pain but it is also a "cool" factor in my book.  Plus most people have no idea how to start it! ;D
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 25, 2015, 08:59:34 AM »

Tooth count and starter are correct. I played with the foot lever switch and put it all the way down and it does it less but still spins before being fully in the fly wheel. I'm going to take it back a 4th time to the shop and see what he thinks. Keep ya posted.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: September 24, 2015, 05:25:31 PM »

I guess it could be, but mine always cranked the engine just like a 12v starter normally would on my other 12v vehicles, which led me to believe it had been rebuilt to be 12v.  But I think your idea makes a lot of sense.

Back to the teeth count on the ring gear...you said it cranks horribly sometimes but I'll assume it sometimes will crank just fine?  If there are times when it engages and cranks fine, I would not suspect tooth count being off.  If your tooth count wasn't right for your starter, I think you would have a disaster every single time you tried it.
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 21, 2015, 08:52:55 PM »

I'm not mechanic here. But thinking about it, it never did this when it was 6V.  Could it be spinning to fast maybe?
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: September 18, 2015, 05:50:41 PM »

I also wanted to keep my old foot starter and was very reluctant to make a change...hence, all of the time and $$$ I put into trying to get it working right.  But the new starter engages first time every time (clearly the ring gear is and was just fine) and the key start I actually find more user friendly.  Especially on re-starts when you have to work the gas pedal at the same time.  I'd never go back to the old setup now.
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 18, 2015, 05:42:52 PM »

Damn I should have bought that in the first place. I really didn't want to switch to a key start� but may need to. I'm gonna see if I can figure out why its doing this but get that if j cabt. Thanks for the help!
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: September 18, 2015, 05:18:31 PM »

I bought this one on Ebay:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/281762990816

But Kaiser Willys also sells one:  http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/2342/willys-jeep-starter-motor-parts-accessories

I don't know if they are identical or not or why the KW motor is so much more $.

Important to note that these are only 12 volt as far as I know.  But if you contact the phone # for the Ebay guy, he might be able to build you one in 6 volt if that is what you need.
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 18, 2015, 04:41:48 PM »

So the starter does match up with the fly wheel. Sounds like that's what j mag need to do. What is the gear reduction racing motors? An actual motor?
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: September 17, 2015, 06:32:50 PM »

To the best of my knowledge both the 4162 and the 4137 work with the 124 T ring gear.  I had the same issue where about 25% of the time the drive would not seat all the way into the ring gear and when the electrons hit the motor it would just make an awful screech.  If you do this enough you could harm the ring gear as Bob mentioned. 

I replaced the starter drive, no change.  Then I replaced the ring gear, no change.  Then I had the motor rebuilt, no change.  Again new starter drive, no change.  Then screwed the starter button on the motor all the way down so the lever could engage the ring gear as far as physically possible before the electrons hit the motor (should have done this first!).  This helped a bit, but I still had the problem. 

Finally, yanked the motor out and replaced it with one of the little gear reduction racing motors that you see advertised for the L Head engines.  Voile!  Success!  Now I have a key start and it engages every time without a problem.   
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 17, 2015, 05:27:26 AM »

I'm thinking the motor I put in had different amount of teeth as well. Can I just ssigh the gear in the start out of this is the case?
Posted by: Bob W
« on: September 16, 2015, 07:36:58 PM »

Check the ring gear for worn teeth and the tooth count.
Posted by: SSG T
« on: September 16, 2015, 04:59:33 PM »

Hey guys. Haven't managed to blow up the replacement motor yet but am now having starter issues. Have had it rebuilt 3 times. It grids horrible sometimes. I've adjusted the button and replaced the bushing in the Bell housing. Still no luck. Any thoughts? I'm a about ready to buy the hand crank ha-ha. Thanks boys.