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Topic Summary

Posted by: Austin
« on: August 31, 2015, 07:26:05 AM »

The old bearings were fine. I think my problem was they a combination of not being shimmed correctly and on the passenger side, the the dowel part on the king pin bearing cap was pushed all the way up. Not sure what may have caused this, but something something to keep my eye on.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 30, 2015, 03:08:56 PM »

Excellent.  What was the condition of the old bearings?
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 30, 2015, 01:17:07 PM »

For anyone who was wondering, properly shimming the king pin bearing caps did the trick. No shake whatsoever. Used the fish scale to got 10 - 14 pounds. Thanks!
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 15, 2015, 12:44:39 PM »

Shoped the bearings around. Got the bearings and races from rock auto, they were the cheapest ones I could find, and they are made in USA. If anyone is looking to do a knuckle rebuild, the races cost me $5.55 and the bearings were $13.56. They didnt have the seals or the shims, so I got them from 4wheelparts.com. The seals were $12/ea and the shims were 5. Everything for under $100. Not too bad.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 15, 2015, 10:33:26 AM »

Yes, that is the part I was thinking about. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of each side.


I've done both knuckles in both jeeps and did not need to replace any of the bearing caps...
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 15, 2015, 06:50:40 AM »

The bolts I was asking about are the four bolts that go in the top of this part. I think it's called the king pin bearing cap. I ordered the shims.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 15, 2015, 12:05:08 AM »

Do you mean the part that bolts on with the four bolts or studs and has the pin? I'm not sure what it is called...

I did not need any for either jeep..all four were fine...get shim packs though...
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 14, 2015, 09:00:28 AM »

Should I order new king pin bearing caps for the tops of the knuckles?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 14, 2015, 08:41:02 AM »

Austin,
The more modern manuals to suggest the higher pre-loads, but I'm not sure I would set it to 16 lbs.  Your bearings will sound kind of crunchy.

Older manuals had the pre-load specs much lower.  I split the different recommendations and settled on 10-12 lbs. 

Tim 
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 14, 2015, 07:30:43 AM »

Thanks. I found some good illustrations on the knuckle rebuild. Still not sure what the torque should be on the bolts on the king pin bearing cap. I understand that I need to use the spacers and a fish scale to have 16 pounds that moves the knuckle.

I also went ahead and ordered the wheel bearings and seals.

I am thinking about ordering new king pin bearing caps for the top. Is this necessary??

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 13, 2015, 11:39:56 PM »

Well, where to start?

Rebuild the steering box, bushings, sector shaft and seal, if you are lucky you won't need a worm shaft.

Rebuild the bellcrank.

Check the pitman arm and bell crank ball ends for wear..if flat on one side or way out of round replace.

Rod end bearings..

check the wheel bearings and seals.

Knuckle bearings too.

I replaced everything in my CJ-5 and STILL the steering was very stiff....but the knuckle rebuild solved all that...

good luck!  Well I can't find an exploded knuckle picture....the Jeep Manual  gives a good explanation though

Posted by: Austin
« on: August 12, 2015, 06:27:12 PM »

anything else I should replace or look at while I have everything apart?
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 11, 2015, 10:08:08 PM »

If you can feel the shake through the steering wheel then most likely it's in the front end..a knuckle rebuild makes a big improvement..

If it is just a general sort of rumble/shake try the drive lines..check both  front and rear for phase as Tim recommended if you don't have lock-out hubs..
Posted by: Austin
« on: August 11, 2015, 09:13:05 PM »

Thanks all. I am going to attempt a alignment and have the wheels balanced this week. Thanks Tumbleweed for "The Shimmy Page." I found a king pin bearing kit from Kaiser Willy's Auto Supply. I'm going to go ahead and put my order in. Should be a good weekend project.
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: August 10, 2015, 04:59:53 PM »

Start with getting the two truest running wheels up front. If they wobble or the tires are out of true themselves, it will start the wobble. Then try and get rid of where the slack is, like the bellcrank shaft. Then the knuckle bearings as indicated. The steering box itself may have worn sector shaft and bushings. The draglink may also have broken springs inside and is now too loose. Don't waste your money on a steering stabiliser shock. They don't help much. Last is the caster. Sagged springs up front will do this. Sometimes a simple wedge shim will help give you caster. John