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Topic Summary

Posted by: J Metz
« on: March 29, 2015, 08:59:05 PM »

Thanks, Dave (and sorry for the delay in reply, I have been traveling a lot since I wrote the post).

I agree with you completely about the press. There have been more times than I care to count that I have run into a need for one. I took the bellcrank over to a friend of mine's (who's got a press) and we were able to remove the assembly in under 30 seconds (sigh).

Sadly, I do need at least one new bearing, as my attempt to punch the bearing further into the bellcrank damaged the metal. So, there's one on order, and when it comes in I'll go back to my friend's to help me put it in place correctly this time.

Speaking of which, I'm going to document with pictures how to go about doing it, so that if someone happens to be in the same situation I'm in will at least have some place to start (there wasn't anything I could find, unfortunately).

As to your other points, I think you're right. I have come to the same conclusion as well, and am glad to get some confirmation.

Thanks for reading through the blog, too! Glad that people are enjoying living (re-living?) vicariously through my experiences. :)
Posted by: squidtone
« on: March 20, 2015, 06:33:55 PM »

J,
I enjoy reading your blog. It's refreshing to see the reality of a build sometimes...the stuff that goes wrong, and how you work through it. Not comforting for you, but perhaps you can get some small shred of comfort knowing you might be helping somebody out there who has the same issues...
Anyway, I consider myself a bit of a maniacal do it yourselfer, and I abosolutely will go to all ends to solve a problem myself.
Here's my opinion on your issues:

You need a press to get those roller bearings down into the bell crank. I went without a press all my life until recently..I bought the hundred dollar 12 ton harbor freight unit. It's astonishing how handy these things are. With some scrap, some sockets, bearing driver kit, and this press, you are almost invincible. I agree with you, I would not try to punch or pound the soft-ish bearing shell into the bore. If you don't want to buy a press, go to a shop and throw a guy 10 bucks to press it in to the proper depth.

The horn wire tube. If it was me, and i didn't have a new-old ross box replacement handy, I'd see about making a new tube myself and brazing or welding it to the end cap. Do you have the original cap? Lots of folks say don't mess with the cap; once it's removed, there might be a problem trying to get it reinstalled and sealed. I just measured the tube on my box (it's apart right now) and the tube is 0.285' OD, and about a 0.031" wall thickness. I searched a bit and this is an odd size, and I could not find an equivalent. In this case, I'd search for a 0.25" OD tube and find a way to fix it to the end cap. Brazing would be cool, or perhaps I'd try threading the tube with a 40 or even 80 pitch die and double nut it (with thin jam nuts) onto the endcap. Seal with copper or brass washers and PTFE sealant. Not sure a nut would fit on the inside with that worm gear bearing close by...

Your disc brake flex lines do look to long, but I think you could perhaps come up with some sort of tether thingy that would keep it out of interference trouble. Of course you can only see what kind of interference hazards there are when the body is installed. But if it was me, I'd run it the way it is, as long as there's no apparent interference with other moving parts. Sometime when you get the time, get some shorter lines and install them then.

I think your pushrod is falling out because the body is not there to keep the pedal from overtravelling. When the tub is on, the floor pan prevents it from coming out too far. Maybe someone will chime in on how much "preload" the pushrod should have when the brakes are not engaged.

It's a bummer you don't have the tang for your clutch spring. I respectfully submit you should just accept that you might have some places where you're going to have to grind off the powdercoat and drill a hole, weld a tang, bracket, or whatever. As long as you prime and paint over the re-work, i think you'll never have a problem. Any paint, even rattle can paint, if properly applied, will far outlive the thin wash the Willys factory applied, and you won't even remember where your repairs are in a few years.

Your frame and parts look awesome, I hope you can get through these hassles. It looks great to me so far!
Posted by: J Metz
« on: March 19, 2015, 10:40:28 PM »

Howdy folx,

After a very frustrating weekend, I knew I was going to need to ask for some major advice. I've updated my blog with lots of pictures of where the problems were (last weekend, trust me there are many many more where those come from). I could really use some help and advice on what to do about these areas:

1. Bell Crank assembly isn't going as smoothly as I thought it would
2. Brake lines for a disc brake conversion supposed to loop?
3. What's the proper length for the brake arm push rod into the master cylinder?

Photos show the story (and possibly more).

Thanks in advance,
J