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Topic Summary

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: November 05, 2014, 09:02:47 PM »

Nothing like the right tool for the job! Some of those odd wrenches are not used often, but when you need 'em, you need 'em!
Posted by: BMIC
« on: November 05, 2014, 12:25:47 PM »

Update... I got some time to think this through as I raked leaves for the past few weekends. With about 1" of space between the engine and firewall I was able to get a ratchet wrench over the two nuts and get the bracket removed and replaced correctly. Did not have to move the tub or engine at all... Hopefully I am back on the road to progress...
Posted by: BMIC
« on: October 17, 2014, 10:31:03 PM »

Your comments, pictures, and a long weekend in Florida have helped immensely.... A few weeks back as I was bolting on the tub and everything was fitting so nicely I was questioning how many times I might be repeating this process.
 We have all repeated so many times on these pages "show me the pictures", they do show so many things. Thanks guy's, your pictures not only showed my bracket upside down but where that little spring I found on the floor goes.
Unbolting the tub and jacking it a few inch's should give me enough room to reverse the bracket and replace the linkage arm.... with the spring!
I'll take a few pictures.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: October 16, 2014, 03:58:56 PM »

Just to add another thing to watch out for.....it is possible to take the bracket off the arm and then install the bracket incorrectly on the arm, which makes it theoretically possible to have the bracket installed wrong and still have the linkage operational...maybe.

I have gotten to the point where I test fit the carb and check out the gas pedal linkabe to see if it will work, before installing the engine. I too have had it wrong in the past...It's one of those things everybody does at least once, like breaking the left side lug studs.....
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 16, 2014, 01:10:51 PM »

Quote
the sound of a couple dozen needle bearings hitting the bottom of the transmission housing
Just another opportunity to turn a small project into a big one..the dreaded Willys Domino Effect....

I think BMIC can attest to that....
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: October 16, 2014, 09:03:03 AM »

Quote
...so I ought to be able to separate it without removing the transmission...


You are probably aware but be sure you pull the trans cover and wire the mainshaft in place prior to removing the TC. Unless, of course, you love the sound of a couple dozen needle bearings hitting the bottom of the transmission housing. Ask me how I know this.....
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 15, 2014, 08:39:58 PM »

And we all learn something....

In looking at the posts and pictures of the throttle linkage, I realized my swivel arm was bent...and I wasn't getting full throttle...it's better now..

And I've been contemplating removing my transfer case to chase that noise I have but I wasn't sure where all� 5 bolts were....Tim's picture clearly shows all five so I ought to be able to separate it without removing the transmission...
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:41:24 PM »




It's funny that when something like this comes up, we all scramble out to see if we installed it correctly.�  :-/









Posted by: macrisel
« on: October 15, 2014, 10:40:36 AM »

Quote
%$#&^%#@*&^..... Nice photo Scoutpilot, after I undo the wiring, speedometer, e-brake, and lift the tub... that photo will come in handy!
Just for my own sanity... I was thinking there are only two offset threaded holes in the block, are there three holes in the bracket?
Painful lesson but much appreciated... thanks everyone.

Before you did all of that, you might try and remove your motor mounts and see if you can drop your motor down enough to get to that plate.  You will probably have to come from the bottom up the transmission tunnel with a looooong extension and a wobble socket.

Good luck!
Mark
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: October 14, 2014, 07:50:18 PM »

[size=12]The stud on your motor must be very long indeed. Look closely at the upper arm and check the clearance between the arm and the rear stud. This is the factory standard installation. And yes, I have put one or two on upside down myself. Extremely easy error to commit.[/size][/b]
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: October 14, 2014, 05:50:35 PM »

Well this is interesting...as is often the case, I see how something should be done correctly, and then I go check mine to assure that it has been done incorrectly.� �� BMIC, my bracket is mounted the same as yours and the throttle works beautifully.� In fact, I suspect that if it was mounted as in Scoutpilot's photo, I may have clearance issues with the exhaust manifold stud and nut, as it would be considerable lower on the block.� Just my 2 cents...which is no doubt about what it's worth.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:27:59 PM »

Two holes in the block, two holes in the bracket. I can see it would be an easy mistake to install upside down though.
Posted by: BMIC
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:21:49 PM »

%$#&^%#@*&^..... Nice photo Scoutpilot, after I undo the wiring, speedometer, e-brake, and lift the tub... that photo will come in handy!
Just for my own sanity... I was thinking there are only two offset threaded holes in the block, are there three holes in the bracket?
Painful lesson but much appreciated... thanks everyone.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: October 14, 2014, 01:52:52 PM »

[size=12]Hope this helps. This is the correct orientation of the bracket/lever assembly.[/size][/b]
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: October 14, 2014, 01:10:06 PM »

Quote
Ryan, !80 degrees different? My picture and yours look like the same setup. Not sure what you mean other than mine (and yours) may be upside down.
[/b]

I was referring to the bracket. Mine is the same as Randy's. If you flip the bracket into the correct position it should move the location of the arm considerably.


"Like most issues it worked fine 4 years ago when I dismantled it...."

Fix it 'til it's broke� ;D