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Topic Summary

Posted by: F Bill
« on: October 18, 2014, 09:07:16 AM »

You can also buy a cheap porto power at the Chinese tool place or a pawn shop, and jack on the diagonal. A diamonded frame is one of the easier repairs to perform, just measure carefully and allow for springback.� If you wanted to use a piece of heavy pipe on a normal bottle jack, it is [possible to do it eaven cheaper.. Bottle jacks will tend to slip sideways so you'll need to do somethihg to prevent it...

While I would try the tractor rig myself� if nothing else was around..., it is pretty easy to go too far with large machinery....so be careful!!
Posted by: Bob W
« on: October 17, 2014, 04:12:58 PM »

I tack welded an old bumper jack, at an angle, to a CJ-3A frame to solve the same problem. Just applied pressure with the jack until the frame was straight. It worked good. Then removed the jack from the frame.
Posted by: macrisel
« on: October 17, 2014, 01:03:56 PM »

Tim beat me to the punch!  The tractor will work great, just make sure you do it SLOWLY and you have at least one or two guys on the ground watching/holding the frame.  It is better to move it 1/16" at a time than overshoot the target by 1" and then have to bend it the other direction.

Also, make sure you are pushing it squarely to the back.  Otherwise you may end up with the frame twisted also which it harder to fix.

To take the frame to a shop to fix will probably run $200-$500 (in my area in Southeast Missouri).  Most of the labor comes from setting up the frame and not from actually pulling it.

Let us know how it turns out!
Posted by: johnrb3b
« on: October 17, 2014, 12:27:53 PM »

Aha.
The voice of experience.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 17, 2014, 08:41:09 AM »

I'll give you an even more extreme option.  If you have a tractor, or maybe access to a forklift at work...

Find a concrete wall as a backer.  Some 2x4 or 4x4 posts positioned as shims.  Use the heavy equipment to push the frame back into spec.  If needed, you can even hold it in place with the heavy equipment while you weld the frame in strategic locations.

I know this is crude, but it worked for me.

Tim
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: October 16, 2014, 09:35:00 PM »

This may sound extreme but you might mount the axles to the frame and then take it to an alignment and frame shop for straightening.

It would be a shame to get the whole thing back together to find that it drives poorly or wears the tires on one side....

Posted by: jhoag
« on: October 16, 2014, 07:11:35 PM »

Im trying to get my project going again, it been sitting idle in pieces since my son was born 3.5 years ago.� I have rebuilt the axles and have new hardware to bolt them up to the frame but need to fix the frame first.� The previous owner had hit a tree and the front bumper had a bend in it.� After measuring the frame, I noticed that the passenger side frame rail is racked back, not sure it that is the correct term.� There is no bowing or twisting of either rail, and it is level on all planes.� Measuring the frame per the maintenance manual, I noticed that the cross measurements are out by 1/4 inch. The factory tollerance is 1/8 inch.� This corresponds with the bent bumper, right side dent, right frame raile racked.  My question is a two part.� First, is this still close enough to leave it alone and just build it up or, second, what is the best way to make the frame square again.�

Thanks