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Topic Summary

Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 10, 2013, 02:25:48 PM »

Probably. There is a lot of slop in the shaft and I noticed the anti-rattle clip was missing. I may try and find the parts to rebuild it. Might make a good spare if nothing else.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 10, 2013, 02:17:57 PM »

You probably have worn bushings allowing the points to open and/or close at the wrong times causing the rough running.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 10, 2013, 02:11:51 PM »

I have decided to replace the distributor anyways. The Jeep runs rough with it in there and runs fine when I swap to another distributor. The JB Weld seems to have worked pretty well though.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 10, 2013, 01:53:32 PM »

Ryan, using the JB weld to repair it will not be a dependability issue. There is no stress on that area, it's only a guide for the dist. cap. If you file the top surface flat with the remaining surface the cap should fit perfectly flat on the dist. housing. You don't need to find another dist. body.
Posted by: stony
« on: November 07, 2013, 11:03:54 PM »

Thanks!  Only one more thing in there, the condenser.  What does it do?  When the coil discharges it feeds a voltage spike back to the points,  The condenser absorbs the spike, otherwise it would arc across the open points and would burn them out in short order.   While we are talking about ignition, in a no spark condition, check for voltage on the coil +, if it is there, look to the points.  Remember coils rarely fail, points fail all the time and are routine maintenance item.  My brain is empty now, time for bed.  Have fun. :)
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 07, 2013, 09:15:33 PM »

Quote
OK maybe I can help you out a little:� First off the 12V or 6V doesn't matter.� The resistor is associated with the coil, and is independent of the distributor.

Now the distributor does two things: it allows the coil to build a high voltage "charge", and when the coil discharges it points the "spark" to the correct plug wire.� The coil is a transformer with two sets of wire windings, a primary (few) and a secondary (many) that steps up voltage.� Basically here is how it works:� A small cam (4 lobes, 1 for each cylinder) on the distributor shaft opens and closes the points as the shaft turns.� When the points close current flows through the coil + through the primary, out the coil - through the closed points to ground.� When the current flows through the primary windings it builds an electromagnetic field.� When the points open the current stops and the field collapses, and the collapsing field creates a very high voltage in the secondary windings (from 6V to 20,000+ v).� This charge flows through the high voltage wire to the center of the distributor cap down into the center of the rotor, where it travels through the rotor and jumps the gap to the plug wire terminal.� Then through the plug wire to the sparkplug.� Each cylinder in its turn.� �To get a little more technical, all of this takes time, so as the engine RPM increases the process of generating a spark needs to start sooner so the the spark gets to the plug at the correct time, so a set of springs and weights advance the timing as engine RPM increases, so you need to make sure they are in good shape too.� There you go, everything I know about points ignition, not too much too it� ;).

Profoundly interesting. I read through that four times, made one trip out to the garage, and came back and read it two more times. Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.




Posted by: stony
« on: November 07, 2013, 06:31:07 PM »

Quote
My knowledge of electrical systems is even worse.

OK maybe I can help you out a little:� First off the 12V or 6V doesn't matter.� The resistor is associated with the coil, and is independent of the distributor.

Now the distributor does two things: it allows the coil to build a high voltage "charge", and when the coil discharges it points the "spark" to the correct plug wire.� The coil is a transformer with two sets of wire windings, a primary (few) and a secondary (many) that steps up voltage.� Basically here is how it works:� A small cam (4 lobes, 1 for each cylinder) on the distributor shaft opens and closes the points as the shaft turns.� When the points close current flows through the coil + through the primary, out the coil - through the closed points to ground.� When the current flows through the primary windings it builds an electromagnetic field.� When the points open the current stops and the field collapses, and the collapsing field creates a very high voltage in the secondary windings (from 6V to 20,000+ v).� This charge flows through the high voltage wire to the center of the distributor cap down into the center of the rotor, where it travels through the rotor and jumps the gap to the plug wire terminal.� Then through the plug wire to the sparkplug.� Each cylinder in its turn.� �To get a little more technical, all of this takes time, so as the engine RPM increases the process of generating a spark needs to start sooner so the the spark gets to the plug at the correct time, so a set of springs and weights advance the timing as engine RPM increases, so you need to make sure they are in good shape too.� There you go, everything I know about points ignition, not too much too it� ;).
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 07, 2013, 05:13:37 PM »

Ok, can anyone help me figure out what to shop for? Tag is missing from the distributor. This M38 has been converted to 12V but I think there is a 6V resistor on the wire before the coil. Does this mean I should use a 6V distributor?

My working knowledge of mechanics is basic at best. My knowledge of electrical systems is even worse.
Posted by: Holdmybeer
« on: November 07, 2013, 04:41:12 PM »

X2.  Despite that I share everyone's enthusiasm for JB Weld, I think in this case it's only a good expedient repair, until you find a new/used replacement.  It's not like your glueing on a windshield wiper that you might do without.  When the distributor stops, everything stops.   Murphys Law will ensure that it will fail at exactly the worst possible moment.  Guaranteed.
Posted by: Holdmybeer
« on: November 07, 2013, 04:33:36 PM »

X2.  Despite that I share everyone's enthusiasm for JB Weld, I think in this case it's only a good expedient repair, until you find a new/used replacement.  It's not like your glueing on a windshield wiper that you might do without.  When the distributor stops, everything stops.   Murphys Law will ensure that it will fail at exactly the worst possible moment.  Guaranteed.
Posted by: stony
« on: November 07, 2013, 11:46:57 AM »

IMHO, Would look for a new (used) distributor and keep it handy, just in case.....
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 07, 2013, 10:26:20 AM »

Quote
I think you should use an old distributor cap to drive the cracked part back down after you use a two part epoxy in the crack. If you don't it may leave the dist. cap at an angle and could be an issue at some point.

I had thought of doing that but opted against it as I was afraid I'd JB Weld the cap to the distributor. I have the crack JB Welded and clamped back in place pretty well now. We'll see if it holds up. I did notice that prior to this repair the rotor was hitting one of the contacts on the underside of the distributor cap and leaving little metal flakes and wear marks as evidence. I'm not sure if that is at all related to the crack but I'm hoping it will go away now that I have made this repair.

 Waiting on a new carb to arrive so it'll be at least a few days before I can test everything.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 07, 2013, 10:17:25 AM »

I think you should use an old distributor cap to drive the cracked part back down after you use a two part epoxy in the crack. If you don't it may leave the dist. cap at an angle and could be an issue at some point.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: November 06, 2013, 04:23:15 PM »

I like the way you guys think. JB Weld it is.

And BMIC, the gap is the keyway for the cap. I did have to remove the distributor from the block with a tie-rod separator and a BFH after prolonged CRC Freeze-Off and MAPP Gas treatments failed to do anything. It's a wonder I didn't destroy the thing completely.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: November 06, 2013, 01:07:09 PM »

I'd sure try the JB as suggested..

There is also a JB-Quick so you don't have to wait forever...force/squeeze it into the crack, the excess can be easily removed  before it sets completely.