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Topic Summary

Posted by: SteveW
« on: September 17, 2013, 07:15:04 AM »

Putting it on jack stands is what I did for first start up and running. I didn't even have the drive shafts installed, then they went on later and after that wheels. All with out a tub. I didn't even have a tub for a few years after engine and tranny/xfer was done. Also good advice to change every seal and gasket you can while it is naked.And yes this is an obligation during your restoration

Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: September 16, 2013, 06:08:45 PM »

Ah yes, the Grand Rite of Passage for any Willys restorer. It's a definite must on your way to a completed vehicle....
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: September 16, 2013, 02:02:31 PM »

I can't wait! No need to fix the brake. Take a picture to the good looking girl with the jeep!  ;)
Posted by: ZekeD
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:00:12 PM »

Ok!   Now I'm hooked.....   The steering gear will go back on, I'll fix the brakes and find a good looking girl to take my picture....   Whatta plan.

Thanks
Zeke
Posted by: bretto
« on: September 16, 2013, 06:48:32 AM »

I've been there to� :). Easier to work on things, if needed, when it was in this stage.
Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:39:10 AM »

Quote

Actually lately anyone who is anyone in the jeep restoration community has done the old strap a seat to the chassis and go test driving deal.. You miss out on the fun if you don't bolt your steering gear back up and try it!! If your neighbors think you're a little off this is the best way to prove them right..... :D

Just to confirm what F Bill just said ...

Here is a typical site seen many times on the 3A Page before, and will be seen many more times in the future.  Too bad I had to add the weight of the tub, fenders, grill, windshield and spare tire.  It really performed while this light. 

Posted by: F Bill
« on: September 15, 2013, 05:33:44 PM »

Quote
I was so excitied to get started on the '49 that I think that I rushed things....� �The willys leaked (naturally) and was caked with grime, so I started with moving the tub.

Two chain falls make the job easy, but I had to remove the steering box in addition to all of the regular stuff.

Now that I had the chassis free, I towed it out to the burn ( grease) pile to remove the 50+ years of ossified lube from the chassis.� After 3X through the process it look pretty good.

Good news, the master cylinder is shot!� �Well, this accounts for a majority of the leak, bit I am sure that some seals are weak also.

Now that I have a fairly clean chassis to work on, how do I identify which seals are suspect?� �I can start the motor ( with some work) but I cant steer it.� Can you run these things on jack stands?� Do I have to buy a pair of dynos?� How dangerous is running a bare chassis. ( oooh, I love the sound of that! ;). ).

What are better solutions?????


Thanks

Zeke in central Oregon

Definitely, a pair of dynos.. so the rest of us can come and have fun too..

Actually lately anyone who is anyone in the jeep restoration community has done the old strap a seat to the chassis and go test driving deal.. You miss out on the fun if you don't bolt your steering gear back up and try it!! If your neighbors think you're a little off this is the best way to prove them right..... :D

That said, probably everything leaks. It is, after all, a jeep.  ;D
Posted by: ZekeD
« on: September 15, 2013, 03:08:26 PM »

Thanks Tim,   The top of the engine is fine.  And I know what you mean by "might as well" with regard to the seals.  Ill check with Walcks and see if they have a kit with all required seals ( sure ).   Doesnt cost to ask.

Regards
Zeke
Posted by: athawk11
« on: September 15, 2013, 02:51:57 PM »

I'll tell ya Zeke, with the tub out of the way, I would replace every seal at the tranny and TC, whether they were leaking or not.� Unless you know of a very recent rebuild.
�
On the engine, if you remember any leaks around the pan or through the small drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing, then I would pull the oil pan.� If the oil pan is off, may as well do the rear main seal, make sure the oil pick up screen is clean, and replace the oil pan seal.� If none of these areas show any leaks, don't pull it apart.

Oil pump.� Mine have all been messy.� Pretty easy to replace the seals here, but be very careful when pulling the pump, not to change the gear position.� �

On the top of the engine, if you don't remember any leaks around the head, water pump, valve cover, don't take it apart.

Are you going to pull the fly wheel?� If so, there are a couple areas on the back side of the engine that are prone to leaks.� These are frustrating, and difficult to get to with the Willys fully assembled.

Axle, differential, pinion, yoke seals can all be replaced fairly easy with an assembled Willys, but access is a dream with the tub out of the way.� They are all inexpensive, except for the occasional Speedi-sleeve.� I would do them all now.

Running a chassis isn't very dangerous while on wheels.� I don't know that I would run through gears and such, with it up on jack stands unless I was certain that it would stay on them.

Again, I'm not trying to spend all your money, but there will never be a better time to do this.

Speaking from experience, I can think of a number of things I wish I hadn't looked past.

Tim�
Posted by: ZekeD
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:42:43 PM »

The twin chain hoist option.  Both are on trollys, so you can move the tub
Easily

Semi clean running gear
Posted by: ZekeD
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:15:44 PM »

I was so excitied to get started on the '49 that I think that I rushed things....� �The willys leaked (naturally) and was caked with grime, so I started with moving the tub.

Two chain falls make the job easy, but I had to remove the steering box in addition to all of the regular stuff.

Now that I had the chassis free, I towed it out to the burn ( grease) pile to remove the 50+ years of ossified lube from the chassis.� After 3X through the process it look pretty good.

Good news, the master cylinder is shot!� �Well, this accounts for a majority of the leak, bit I am sure that some seals are weak also.

Now that I have a fairly clean chassis to work on, how do I identify which seals are suspect?� �I can start the motor ( with some work) but I cant steer it.� Can you run these things on jack stands?� Do I have to buy a pair of dynos?� How dangerous is running a bare chassis. ( oooh, I love the sound of that! ;). ).

What are better solutions?????


Thanks

Zeke in central Oregon