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Topic Summary

Posted by: p3ferris
« on: August 15, 2013, 07:43:22 PM »

Quote
Quote
I will check the ground on the signal turn switch but I'm not a fan of scratching paint... :D

I hear ya!� Me neither.� I couldn't remove enough to make the connection consistent.� That's why I finally ran the extra ground wire.�

Here is a photo showing the position of the ground cable on the front of the battery tray...


his ground is correct in front of the battery tray
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 15, 2013, 01:15:43 PM »

Quote
I will check the ground on the signal turn switch but I'm not a fan of scratching paint... :D

I hear ya!� Me neither.� I couldn't remove enough to make the connection consistent.� That's why I finally ran the extra ground wire.�

Here is a photo showing the position of the ground cable on the front of the battery tray...


Posted by: gmcjr
« on: August 15, 2013, 12:27:51 PM »

As far as I can remember, the only circuits that are controlled through the ignition switch are the gas gauge and the ignition coil, everything else has power all the time. If shorting out the stop light switch doesnt work, might recheck the turn signal wiring, reason being, the turn signal switch controls some of the stop light circuits when the turn signal is being used.

BTW, I never did get my turn signal indicator to work like it should, like Tim said, bad ground.
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: August 15, 2013, 11:32:55 AM »

I will rewire the negative cable to the frame like it's mention in Bob website.
I asked the question because it does'nt seem right to me to have it on the fenders but the previous owner has it like this so...

The ground strap is where it should. You can see it in the picture.

And for questions #1, Thanks Stony and Tim. I feel better now. ::)

I will check the ground on the signal turn switch but I'm not a fan of scratching paint... :D
Posted by: PaulS
« on: August 15, 2013, 11:09:19 AM »

That ground cable doesn't feel right to me.  I forget what mine looked like (it's all torn to pieces right now), and I don't have pictures handy.  But there should be a direct route, through big cables from the battery negative terminal to the engine block.  You don't want your starter current running through your fender.

There should be a ground strap going across one of the engine mounts (the one closest to the battery) to electrically connect the block to the frame.  IIRC, the negative battery cable should connect to the frame.

Having said that, it's probably a good idea to have a ground wire going to the fender (in addition to the big cables connecting the engine block), since a lot of equipment (like lights) are grounded through the body.  But it doesn't need to be a big battery cable--a 10 or 12 gauge wire would be enough if it doesn't have to carry starter current.

-Paul
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: August 15, 2013, 11:00:55 AM »

I don't see any hole or place in front of the battery tray to connect it there.
Any pictures of it?

Edited:

Ok I found this on Bob W website:
Negative Battery Cable
The 1949 CJ-2A & CJ-3A Parts List and the 1955 Master Parts List both show the negative cable as "640257 Strap, battery ground". Again the length is not given but the measured length of an original 1950 negative battery cable is 14 inches from center to center of the terminals. There is no insulation covering the wire on this cable. The negative cable is bolted to the vehicle frame on the front of the battery box support just behind the grille. It is attached to the frame with a 3/8" bolt and two internal/external toothed lock washers to ensure a good ground.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 15, 2013, 10:57:53 AM »

Pascal,
I may be able to help a little.� It's been a while since I installed my Walcks harness...

1.� With no key in the ignition, my headlights also work.
 
2.� The original negative battery connection was on the front of the battery tray.

3.� I'm not familiar with the Sparton, but the turn signal switch�that I have needed to be grounded for the indicator light to work.� It was similar to the one wire park lights where the socket gets its ground by making bare metal contact with the grill.� I had to scrape some paint off my steering column tube.� I still couldn't get it to work consistantly, so I ran an additional ground wire from the small indicator light socket inside the switch to a good ground position under the dash.

4. If the directional lights work, it is most likely a bad brake switch at the front of the master cylinder.� The little internal diaphragm might be worn out.� You can test this by bypassing the switch.� I don't think there is any adjustments to that switch.

Hopefully this helps a little.�

Tim� �
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 15, 2013, 10:55:05 AM »

The place where your ground is connected is for attaching a brace or arm from the battery hold down frame. There would have been a wing nut there...

My negative cables on both the 55 CJ-5 and the 51 CJ-3a are connected to the front bottom bolt on the oil filter bracket...
Posted by: stony
« on: August 15, 2013, 10:46:30 AM »

The headlights and parking lights should work anytime you pull the switch key or no key.  Not sure on the other questions.
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: August 15, 2013, 10:03:02 AM »

Ok, I installed a new wiring harness. I bought it from Walck's.

Questions #1;
Is it normal that I have current even when the key is not at the ignition position or not there at all?
I'm able to turn on the light even if the key is removed... :o
I'm pretty sure that I wired it ok up to the key switch.
The only screw identified on the key switch is marked with a T. There is three screw. I assumed this one was the battery screw.
The key switch has a left, center and right position. I wired it to have power when the key is turned to the right. I don't understand. :-?
I feel stupid. :-[

Question #2;
The battery negative pole was connected on the fender. Is it the right place?

Question #3;
I got a Sparton SCS-3R signal turn switch. I installed it. The pilot light on it does not light up.
I can see (not able to measure it) voltage going to it but I think that the new flasher is too fast.
The bulb is good. It's a 53. Even if it's for a 12 volts, it should light up, right?
I will try to find a 51 and give it a try. :-/

Question #4;
All my light worked even when using the turn signal except for the brake light.
The tail lights are on and I can see it flashing left and right but I have nothing if I hit the brake.
Is there a way to test the brake switch? I guess I can bypass it and connect the wire together.
Is there any ajustment on it?