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Topic Summary

Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 18, 2013, 01:42:45 PM »

The guy at the shop was kind enough to let me go with one drum and try it at home.
It work!

So here is the part number for who want it:
Posted by: macrisel
« on: July 17, 2013, 12:17:23 PM »

Don't worry about the screws.  They are not needed.  As stated, on modern vehicles the drums or rotors use a PAL nut or screws to hold them onto the backing plates.  These are installed primarly to hold them on while they go down the assembly line prior to the wheels being installed.  Most of the aftermarket drums/rotors (and even some OE service parts) have these holes deletes and do not reuse the fasteners.
Posted by: PaulS
« on: July 17, 2013, 09:37:59 AM »

You don't need the screws, as Bill says.  Worst case, when you change a tire, the drum comes off with it.  But even that's not likely to happen if the brakes are adjusted properly.

-Paul
Posted by: F Bill
« on: July 17, 2013, 09:35:03 AM »

When everything is new the three flathead screws held the drum on so it didn't fall off during wheel changes. They may also have centered the drum, but if the drum pilots on your hub without a lot of slack you'll be fine.

Older jeeps are often found with those screws missing. Their function is partly duplicated by the wheel and lug nuts. Modern vehicles with drum brakes often use a simple pal nut or sheet metal clip to hold the drum on the hub when the wheel is removed. Those clips often get ruined during a brake job and never replaced.

Good idea to check everything, altho if you brought your wheel along with your hub to the parts store it would be easy to check it out there . Your tread width may increase by the thickness of the drum. Make sure your studs are long enough for the new position.

Pretty much all the drums sold for the older jeeps are this style and nobody seems to have any serious problems with them so I think you will be OK..
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 17, 2013, 09:06:34 AM »

I bring the backplate (with shoe) with the hub at the store and we fit the drum over it. It does fit perfectly.
The hub will be inside now. The inside hole of the drum fit perfectly with the outside of the hub.

The purpose of the three hole in the new drum is only to screw it to the hub, right? Does it matter if I don't have it? Should I drill and tap three hole in my hub?
I don't fully understand the purpose of it since the drum will make one piece with the hub when the stud will be in place.

Should I need to be worry about the wheels? The drum is bigger than my old one so I hope that my wheels will fit over it.

The overall length dimension should be the same. Having the hub inside or outside should'nt change the length of it. I should'nt be worry about the shaft length, right?

I have until the end of the week to commit to buy it. I will ask them if I can borrow it to try it at home on the jeep with the wheels and dualmatics hub on it. Hope they will agree.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: July 16, 2013, 03:25:51 PM »

The important dimensions are diameter and width of the friction surface  A later jeep may have 10 or 11 inch brakes, Measure the width of your present shoes and the diameter of your present drum and make sure the drum is designed for a jeep with that size brakes. As far as the inside hole of the drum, as long as it is large enough to go over your hub you will be fine.
Posted by: PaulS
« on: July 16, 2013, 03:16:22 PM »

I don't think it matters that the hole is bigger.  It may be actually necessary for the hole to be bigger, since the drum now has to fit over the place where the locking mechanism attaches.

-Paul 
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 16, 2013, 01:55:56 PM »

Here is the results of my research for new drum locally.
First, I had to find someone with old book...

So for an universal jeep 1962 the part number was 80031 and raebestos book it is now 2300. I gave it a try an order those one.

They are bigger then my old one. Also, I do think those one are for the hub to go inside.

And if I put a new one on top of the old, the inner circle is bigger. Does it matter?

They are also quite expensive 85$ +tx.
Does anyone know a replacement part number for those?

Posted by: Matto
« on: July 15, 2013, 06:35:33 PM »

The rear axle on my 3B is the same way. I had a friend press out a broken stud and press in a new one from Walcks that was serrated around its base. As far as your hub with the larger hole, you might have been able to put a 3/8" Helicoil in.
Posted by: RedWilly
« on: July 15, 2013, 03:28:32 PM »

The studs will come serrated and unless your hub is egg shaped they should press in and hold. I had to spot weld a couple as they did not hold. I used a shop press to remove and install. On the ones that did not hold I pressed in, tighten a lug nut in place to square the stud to the hub and then spot welded in a couple of spots.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: July 15, 2013, 03:06:50 PM »

The earlier jeeps were all installed the way yours are, Pascal. Aftermarket drums and later jeeps are installed on the outside of the hub and simply pop off.

If your new studs install with a fair amount of resistance I wouldn't bother with swaging them. Actually finding someone to do it might be difficult as it is no longer a normal day to day operation for brake work on todays cars.

Take a look at the hub where the bolts were pressed out and see if there is any sign of tearout  due to a larger swaged area being forced back thru a smaller hole. If you can rotate the new studs to a point where the knurling does not match the previous bolt's grooves it made in the hub you may still be OK. Some tack weld the studs in if they loosen up but I can't really recommend that option.

Double check those new drums to see if they are the same as your old ones or designed for installation as a slip over the hub deal.
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 15, 2013, 02:57:46 PM »

Hum,..The more I red about it, the more I'm getting anxious.

I ordered to new drum. I should get them tomorrow. I also ordered new studs.

I will inspect my hub carefully and check if they are not damaged.

Should I try to find someone in town who can reinstall them and swage them?
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 15, 2013, 02:40:28 PM »

Thanks Bill.

Now the questions is how on a CJ3A the stud should be installed? Do they are normally swaged?

And do my drum,hub and stud are properly installed on my jeep? Is it the "normal" way?
Posted by: F Bill
« on: July 15, 2013, 02:17:04 PM »

A Google search for "swaged wheel studs" resulted in many good forum threads about this..

Here's one with good pictures.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

And yes, the drums are sandwiched between the stud head and the hub on Pascal's jeep.
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: July 15, 2013, 01:25:54 PM »

To answer to your questions;
Yes and Yes. I don't know. The back is in the same fashion.
Here is a picture of the back