The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:
Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 26, 2013, 11:48:22 PM »

Quote
I was looking into some posts on this subject of body insulators and I can't remember who posted it but it was one of those - Oh man, I should have thought of that moments.� He said he went to the sporting goods store and bought a roller like you would put on a boat trailer to guide the boat on with and then he just used a band saw and cut off whatever size piece he needed like cutting cookies off a tube of cookie dough.� Neat idea� ;)

I remember that...but I don't remember who posted it...great idea though, make them as thick or as thin as you want...
Posted by: 1oldracer
« on: May 26, 2013, 11:37:49 PM »

I was looking into some posts on this subject of body insulators and I can't remember who posted it but it was one of those - Oh man, I should have thought of that moments.  He said he went to the sporting goods store and bought a roller like you would put on a boat trailer to guide the boat on with and then he just used a band saw and cut off whatever size piece he needed like cutting cookies off a tube of cookie dough.  Neat idea  ;)
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 25, 2013, 10:14:17 PM »

The replacements i bought are 1 1/2" by 3".

If you get that hardware let us know how it looks....
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 25, 2013, 09:48:18 AM »

I think they used (and still use) old tire material for the body insulators. They are about 1/4" thick and have fabric embedded in them. I don't have one right here but they are about 1 1/2" by 3 1/4". I have a picture of the old ones somewhere...

I just tighten them good and snug, but not to the point where they compress the insulator...
Posted by: maximushuntermus
« on: May 24, 2013, 11:53:07 PM »

Yep those were the ones I'm considering, probably will buy them. I made some rubber mounts out of some rubber blankets we use in my trade to cover high voltage, its nice and subtle but not too soft, so I think it will work. I like Nates setup though because I could see where you could over tighten them and also you want the body to give a little bit on the frame for inevitable twisting right? I guess thats the locknuts job maybe just don't overtighten then lock em down huh?
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 22, 2013, 09:12:21 PM »

Is this what you were looking at? I see that now the step bolts are included, along with the pal nuts etc....I just might pull the trigger....or I could drive all over looking for the same locally..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Complete-Willys-Body-Bolt-set-CJ3A-Correct-Hardware-W-bed-bolt-/190844289569?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6f34c221

And there is this one...neither is 100% complete, but they are getting close...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Complete-Willys-Body-Bolt-set-GPW-MB-CJ2A-Correct-Hardware-/190844287044?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6f34b844&vxp=mtr
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: May 22, 2013, 08:47:23 PM »

No issues for me since I had to cut all the holes for the pedals and everything. You will have problems on an original body though. You can use the same setup with some 1/4" rubber conveyor belt.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: May 22, 2013, 08:01:20 PM »

Early on I spent the big bucks on the full body mount kit from Kaiser Willys. I should have saved my money. I ended up using only the nuts, bolts, and washers that were included and discarded all the rubber mounts. I would have been better just buying the hardware at the local store for a fraction of the price.

The rubber bushings were all similar to hockey pucks, which is odd, since the original rubber pieces were square and much thinner (I think). I ended up finding a similar set of thin rubber pieces on ebay for $30 or $40. I'm sure you could make your own if you could find a sheet of rubber the proper thickness.

Nate - Did you have any problems using the "thicker" hockey pucks? I'm curious if they caused any alignment problems with hoses or other components that either pass through or mount to the body.

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: May 22, 2013, 07:07:34 PM »

This is pretty simple.

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: May 22, 2013, 04:08:05 PM »

I've looked at those ebay hardware sets....they are tempting...

The one type bolt they don't have though is a "step" bolt. Looks just like a carriage bolt with a larger flatter head. They go in the bed and I'm going to put one under the fuel tank.

If you have a Tacoma Screw store near you I'd recommend going there, that is what I plan to do...
Posted by: maximushuntermus
« on: May 22, 2013, 03:59:54 PM »

Any recomendations on the type of hardware for mounting the tub? Ebay has vendors selling the "correct mounting hardware" for about $40.00, with the correct locking nuts, they look like their zinc coated. Or would I be better served to just go to the hardware store pick out what I need, and maybe go with stainless and copius amounts of anti seize. Would carriage bolts be better in the tub? I appreciate your time and opinions, Thanks.