The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:
Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: polara6t
« on: May 01, 2013, 05:20:26 PM »

Thanks to everyone...friendly advice from here and the right tools..Sea Foam..Palm Sized 11/32 box wrench..Oversized Regular Screw Driver and a bruised knuckles. It will be great to get them rebuilt. Now the rest of the big bucket list. If anyone ever has any questions on this not easy job please reach out. I know I'm a newbie and will need a lot of baby sitting to get my Dad's Jeep going again but glad to pay forward anyway I can. Thanks again all!

Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 01, 2013, 11:47:08 AM »

Hmmm...

Someday, I hope to see a version of this mysterious late model 3A. I've heard they do exist.   ;)  I tend to get tunnel vision because of the 2 '49s with bottom mount radiators sitting in my driveway.

Tim
Posted by: macrisel
« on: May 01, 2013, 10:40:24 AM »

Nate beat me to it.  The side mount radiator make it pretty difficult to get to the drivers side parking lamp.  On mine, I ended up having to cut the wires and pull the grille off before I would get the parking lamps and headlight buckets out.  Since I was doing a complete teardown anyway it wasn't a big deal.

Otherwise, you may just try to fit a closed end wrench or socket on there and try to twist it off and break the bolt.  If it is a screw holding it in, you are in for a long night.  :-/
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: May 01, 2013, 08:40:07 AM »

'49 3As like Tim's with the bottom mount radiators are easier to get to the parking lights. The later ones with the grille mounted radiators are much more difficult.
Posted by: polara6t
« on: May 01, 2013, 08:21:14 AM »

Tim,

I wish I had that access here is what I have. Frankly having big hands does not help. Rusted and the nuts seem to be 11/32. There is no room to get a socket I think I can get a small 11/32 wrench in which I don't have. Just trying to get in position the back wire to the light broke off. Think I am getting two new light housings..ha!


Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 30, 2013, 09:34:37 PM »

Hi Bedrock,

I just added an explanation over at the FAQ section.

Thanks for the compliment!

Tim
Posted by: Bedrock
« on: April 30, 2013, 09:21:42 PM »

Tim, I like the way you did your turn signal modification.  Very nicely done.  I might end up doing mine the same way.


George
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 30, 2013, 08:12:08 PM »

Okay Polara, I'm confused. �Do you have something mounted on the driver side fender that can be removed for better access? �From my perspective, the passenger side parking light is worse than the driver side.

I know that 3A headlight buckets extend into the engine compartment more than my M38 buckets, but not by much.

I shot a photo. �Looks like a pretty straight shot....

Posted by: polara6t
« on: April 30, 2013, 05:17:09 PM »

I am sorry for being unclear..I am talking drivers side the passenger side was all good.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 30, 2013, 04:56:17 PM »

Polara,

You do need to be a bit of a contortionist.  If you remove the battery you will have a better shot at it.   I would remove the headlight bucket before I took the fender off.  You don't need to 'see' what your doing. You may need to do it by 'feel'.    

Another option would be to simply grind the head of the screw off.  Of course you want to be careful not to damage the bezel.

Tim  
Posted by: polara6t
« on: April 30, 2013, 04:07:50 PM »

Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond. For now I will keep them as parking but very cool idea to convert to turn signals. The stripped screw idea worked like a charm thank you very easy. Now about that pesky right side parking light there must be an easier way than taking off the fender..you'd think Mercedes or Lexus designed it. I'm kinda stumped. I am positive the nuts will be rusted in place. I have hit with a does of deep creep. How do you get at em?
Posted by: Matto
« on: April 29, 2013, 07:31:15 PM »

Here's a link to the tech tips page article on modifiying the parking lights to accept turn signal bulbs if you were considering that.
http://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/installing_front_turn_signals.htm
Posted by: p3ferris
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:41:57 AM »

Do as garage gnome said BUT be careful that you do not bend the outer caseing of the socket with the bulb base in as it will ruin it. I use the head of a pair of my strippers inside of the socket as it has a sharper edge to grab as you are pushing in and turning it out.
Posted by: johnrb3b
« on: April 29, 2013, 08:48:26 AM »

Single filament, replace original
6V    #53
12V  #97
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 28, 2013, 07:16:15 PM »

Are you planning on putting turn signals on? Are you re-using the original sockets? 6V or 12V?

1) No real easy way to get at them sort of removing the fender. I put stainless screws and nuts on mine. Solved the rust problem. Sheet metal screws would be be the best option. No pesky nuts to catch!

2) The original light color was white. And there was no reflector.

3) Needle nose pliers work pretty well for me. I bend the light in on itself and twist it out. If you are using the original sockets, Wagner miniature lamps will work. I don't know the number for them though.