The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:

Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 28, 2013, 08:17:51 PM »

I had this conversation with BobW back when I got it in '08.  The tub is a reproduction with features of both M38 and CJ3A.  

Other than that, BobW concluded that it was a CJ3A with features consistent with its licensed serial number. (Since it doesn't have its original ID plate, the S/N on the registration is all I've got.)  Now that I've got it torn down, we can take a closer look at things like casting numbers to see if they support that conclusion.  (The engine is from a 2A, though, but it was known to have been replaced in the 80's.)

I'll be taking some better pictures of the frame soon.

-Paul
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 28, 2013, 02:43:48 PM »

Quote
The tub is missing some M38 features.

From this photo, you should see the battery box in the cowl, �the decontamination brackets on the tool box, mounting holes or the actual brackets for the top bows and rear seat.

Could it be an M38 reproduction tub? �I'm not as familiar with some of the early repros.

Tim

That's interesting isn't it?....A Canadian version?...or a repro, or?  

More pictures!
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 28, 2013, 01:23:24 PM »

The tub is missing some M38 features.

From this photo, you should see the battery box in the cowl,  the decontamination brackets on the tool box, mounting holes or the actual brackets for the top bows and rear seat.

Could it be an M38 reproduction tub?  I'm not as familiar with some of the early repros.

Tim
Posted by: Macgraham
« on: April 28, 2013, 12:33:11 PM »

Looks like the BC salt did a job on it. :'( >:(
Posted by: F Bill
« on: April 28, 2013, 11:43:54 AM »

It is rebuildable but you will only save about the top inch of most of the rear quarters, the cowl, the firewall, the toolbox, And part of the front floor. Your front 1/4's are a toss up whether to save the top portions or just replace entirely. All the hat channels are most likely bad.  Depending on how nice you want it the rear floor also may need replacement. I think this is a tub that someone may want to rebuild who can make their own patches, but to rebuild it with commercially available patch panels will cost a bunch. The removable floor panels are a nice feature of the M 38 tubs, if they are in good shape it will help your pocketbook as they are either impossible to find or expensive if you do.

Better used tubs are out there but may not be in your area.

Also if you choose to make it more of a utility type of restoration and don't care bout things like tool indents and the correct ribs on floor and wheelhouse panels, most is flat panels and bought by the 4x 8 sheet, , a lot cheaper.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 28, 2013, 10:01:48 AM »

That is an M-38 tub.....is the frame also M-38..? �An M-38 frame may have large tie-down loops on it, front and rear and in the mid section too...they look like big footman loops...off the top of my head I can't think of any other easily seen differences...there must be a few though...

Repro tubs are an ongoing subject with much discussion.....Keep an eye out for a donor tub....or cut and weld...

M-38 parts at Midwest Military.net , G503.com, debellajeepparts.com...and there are several others....
Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 27, 2013, 11:47:33 PM »

Well, it came off okay. �Here's the fast version:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3mQZPb0GTg

When I wasn't sure about the oil pressure line, I was thinking it would be like the one on my tractor (of the same age as the Jeep)--a metal tube exposing the panel gauge to the oil pressure. �I wasn't thinking it was just a wire! �It had been disconnected with all the other ones earlier.

Here's the tub, sitting on the driveway:


About the only area on it that's not rusted badly is the dashboard and firewall. �Everything else is pretty rotten. �Since it's not original, I don't feel like tackling a repair on this--I'm leaning towards buying a new one. �Thoughts on that?

-Paul
Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 26, 2013, 09:48:02 AM »

Got all the bolts off.  There weren't 14, though.  At least one pair, maybe two, were missing.  Probably half of them sheared off.  Anyway, I think the tub is free to come off now--I hefted all four corners last night, and it doesn't seem there's anything holding it down.

I forgot the speedo cable and oil pressure line.  I'm not sure there is an oil pressure line, though, since I think I got everything running from the engine through the firewall.  The speedo cable is hiding underneath, and I'll have to remember that.  

If all goes well, I should be able to lift the tub off this evening.  I'll set up the camera to do a time lapse of that part as well.  Maybe at one frame every 5 seconds (I used 15 seconds before) since it really shouldn't take to long to rig up some slings and lift with the shop crane...  (I know: famous last words!)

-Paul
Posted by: Macgraham
« on: April 25, 2013, 04:10:17 PM »

In found that it helped to take lots of photos before and during the tear down. I looked at these many times to see how it was before I got at it. Course it could still be wrong depending who got at it before you. ;) :-/
Posted by: 1oldracer
« on: April 25, 2013, 02:20:28 PM »

I should have said right side up or down rather than on backwards. I put it on upside down and set the tub down and put in all the spacers and bolts and then discovered that the shaft and lever thingy wouldn't clear the exhaust manifold.  With only two bolts holding the bracket to the engine block the hole spacing is the same either way so the pivot for the cross shaft can either be the right height or the wrong height.  I really hadn't planned on admitting my stupidity but in the interest of maybe helping out another Willys owner I have swallowed my pride.  But the time I forgot about the left hand threaded lug nuts - now that will remain a secret  :-X  
Posted by: macrisel
« on: April 24, 2013, 01:12:48 PM »

Quote
Some of us forgot the sneaky little foot feed from the bracket on the back of the engine block. �Which bracket ,by the way, can be put back on upside down �:-[

In the name of general knowledge, how can it be put on "backwards" and what happens when it is?
Posted by: Macgraham
« on: April 23, 2013, 05:16:52 PM »

Make sure the accelerator bracket goes on before the tub goes back on. It is much easier.
Posted by: 1oldracer
« on: April 23, 2013, 02:13:20 PM »

Some of us forgot the sneaky little foot feed from the bracket on the back of the engine block.  Which bracket ,by the way, can be put back on upside down  :-[
Posted by: Kenny_Kustom
« on: April 23, 2013, 12:33:42 PM »

Pull the pedals..
Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 23, 2013, 12:24:25 PM »

Quote
You may have already done these, but there are some other items you will want to disconnect before pulling the tub. �

Speedometer cable
Oil pressure gauge
Wiring harness
Throttle and choke cables
Fuel line to tank
Remove steering wheel or entire system
Gear shift tower

Thanks, Tim.  I did plan on doing all that!  ;)

I notice you don't have pedals on that list.  I haven't looked that closely yet, but I don't think the pedals will fit through holes in the floor will they?  I figured something was going to have to be removed there...  Please correct me if I'm wrong!  (I don't want to do more work than necessary.)

-Paul