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Topic Summary

Posted by: Matto
« on: April 27, 2013, 07:27:12 PM »

Hi Paul,
            In Connecticut, a signing member of the rust belt alliance, it was common for farmers and other "swamp yankee" types to undercoat their equipment by spraying used motor oil and Kerosene under the frame and body, then driving on a dusty dirt road. After a couple applications, this coating becomes pretty thick. If you have this on your frame, you can get rid of alot of it with a sharp 1" wood chisel. Just get as much of the thick stuff off by hand and then follow up with sandblasting and good paint prep.
Matt
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: April 26, 2013, 08:57:12 PM »

I'm not a Rust expert...I never got my NACE certification, but I did have to follow those industry guidelines....I did a year long stint as a coating supervisor at a pipe company that produced various diameter steel pipes for water transmission that were guaranteed to last buried in the ground for 100 years without corrosion....NWPipe.

I ran one of the coating shops. �Since then I've been convinced that physical prepping is far better than anything else. �That can come in the form of scraping, sanding, grinding, blasting, etc.

We used a Graco system with a two part polyurethane that had a paint and a catalyst that were painted onto the steel pipe on two different nozzles....when they met at the point of impact on the pipe they formed a chemical reaction of over 300 degrees.......and it dried fast. �30 minutes later we would do a pull test consisting of a 1" circular dolly glued onto the paint. �Usually it would take well over 1-4000 lbs of pressure to pull the paint from the pipe. �In most cases, the dolly just ripped off of the adhesive that was glued to the paint on the pipe and the paint remained bonded physically to the steel pipe due to the surface prep.

Bottom line....most of us don't have a $25K industrial paint system in our garages. �But most coatings adhere physically not chemically to the metal. �When you prep for paint, there's got to be a rough surface for it to bond to. � I'd rather use spray Rust-Oleum on a properly prepped surface than powder coating (the usual answer) which IMHO is way overrated....its just not that tough and flakes too much. �Just ensure the humidity is below 85%, everything is dry and have at it with what ever paint you have.....

PS....my advice only applies to tinkerers like myself....if anyone ever follows anything I say and loses at a Concours D'Elegance because of their paint, then just remember,,,,,,I told you not to listen to me. � �;D

Posted by: Macgraham
« on: April 26, 2013, 04:40:31 PM »

You can pressure wash and steam all you want but if you don't wash it down with grease and wax remover or Prep All the paint isn't staying on long.  If you sandblast I think epoxy primer is best, choose a primer color that closely matches you're paint choice. Prime it right after sand blasting cause just the moisture in the air will cause it to rust.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: April 26, 2013, 04:03:53 PM »

I rented a pressure washer with 3000psi and about 3 gpm,  it also had a heater kerosene fired that heated the water to near boiling just before it went to the nozzle.  It just tears the grease and oil apart, wipes out grease and the gunk that accumulates, and when it dries you are ready for paint.  I used it on several old tractors in my yard, the water breaks the oil down enough that it doesn't hurt the grass.  And no I don't sell them!
You can look or buy at Northern Tool.
Posted by: BMIC
« on: April 26, 2013, 01:53:42 PM »

Paul I think CC and Carl have told you 98% of what you need to know, I would just add that unless your fully set up for blasting it can be a nasty experience. Sooner or later you will wire wheel or hand scrape parts anyway so put the time, effort, and money there.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: April 26, 2013, 11:58:00 AM »

You need to close off all openings on the engine and anywhere else that fluid or sand will get into. You need to steam clean the engine, frame and axles to remove all dirt and grease and oil. Only a steam cleaner will do the job, pressure washers are not adequate.

After that you can sand blast it or have it sand blasted. You will have to put primer and paint on it within hours of getting it home or it will rust again. You also need to use a rust inhibitor primer on everything. You can leave the engine and tranny in the frame to do all this.

Unless you pull everything off the frame and steam clean and sand blast them individually there is no way all the grime can be removed.  
Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 26, 2013, 10:51:42 AM »

I have a blaster.  I would want to load up the rolling chassis and take it out the cabin for any significant blasting, though.  I don't want to be doing that in my attached garage, and I'm sure my neighbours wouldn't want me doing it in my driveway!  What blasting medium is recommended?  just sand?  And how do you protect things like the axle seals and where the shifters enter the transmission/transfer case?

-Paul
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: April 26, 2013, 10:45:22 AM »

Blasting in my opinion would be preferable.  Its fast, can get into most of the hidden places.  I used an angle grinder with a wire wheel, actually several wire wheels.  That works too but unless you break the frame apart you won't be able to get everywhere like in the front where the frame is boxed.  I'm sure there's a shop somewhere  near you that could blast it.  I didn't have the money at the time so I just used the grinder.  Safety goggles and decent clothing are a must, you'll get tons of little wires shot out at you.

I experimented with some chemical rust removers but found the phosphorus based removers always left a residue.  I think physically removing the grime and rust is best.
Posted by: PaulS
« on: April 26, 2013, 10:25:44 AM »

Some unrelated questions, now that I'm almost down to a rolling chassis...

1.  What's the best way of cleaning this thing?  I can scrape and wire brush most of the grime off, but that's not going to get everything.  I was thinking of loading on the trailer and taking it to a truck & trailer wash.  Is that a bad idea?  I don't want to power wash in the driveway since that would put oily water into the storm drains.

2.  Once it's clean, how do I get the rust off the frame (and anywhere else)?  Just wire brush and paint over what's left?  Or is blasting okay?  If so, what medium should I use?  Do I have to remove the engine/transmission/transfer case if I'm going to blast?  And what about the rust and flaky paint on those parts?  Since I've got this thing stripped down, I want to paint it completely before it goes back together, and I want it to look nice!

3.  I did a preliminary compression test  (the battery was a bit weak, so I will repeat this), and got readings of 90, 100, 110, 120, but not in that order.  (Of course I didn't write it down as I was doing it...)  I'm pretty sure the two lowest were not next to each other.  Any thoughts on that?  The engine doesn't have too many miles on it since it was last rebuilt, although that was 25 years ago.

4. When I pulled the plugs for the compression test, they were all black and sooty.  Not really sooty, but there was definitely some.  Anything to worry about?

Thanks,

-Paul