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Topic Summary

Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 16, 2013, 07:56:41 PM »

The threaded portion on the top of the tube where the steering wheel nut goes is 7/16", and the spline is 3/4"

My retaining nut will only go on so far and then it bottoms out....maybe the nut you are using is different...
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 16, 2013, 07:45:47 PM »

Quote
I'm really not sure. �When I took the steering wheel off 5 YEARS AGO it was a miracle to get the thing off and I wasn't paying attention how far down the tube sat on the steering box or how much play the steering wheel had in and out. �A few other questions that might be related to this:

1. �How tall should the spring under the steering wheel be? �Maybe mine has relaxed and is not holding the steering wheel off the tube enough.

2. �My horn button is an aftermarket one and is made a little different than the stock one. �I don't think it will make a difference, but............?

3. �Will it hurt anything to scoot my tube up some? �I don't want another place for a leak to start where that opening is. �However, in my parts manual there is a diagram of the steering column and in it there is an "Oil Hole" listed on the steering tube. �Could it be talking about this opening?


My spring is 1" long, and it rides on top of the bearing that is inset about 3/8" into the tube. I believe the spring is there to aid the electrical contact for the horn, or maybe is there to hold the bearing in place, and does not support the steering wheel, which is just a press fit.

My horn button is simply a rubber cap with a copper disc in it, and the horn wire �just ends in an insulated contact. The insulated contact also has a spring under it...

It sounds to me like maybe the splines on your steering wheel or steering shaft are worn, and the wheel is sliding down too far?? do you have a picture??
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 16, 2013, 02:11:42 PM »

Mine had the plug in it for the longest time, but I wanted to make it easier to grease. I think the Moly grease is fine for that, but I think it would be too thick in the knuckles.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 16, 2013, 02:04:16 PM »

Nate,
This is actually prior to the rebuild.  This is how I found it.  As you and I both know, the zerk isn't correct.  It should be a plug, but  I didn't have a plug that size, so I left the zerk in place.  When I rebuilt the box, I used a 90w oil  / grease mixture.  I wanted to make sure the mixture was 'sloppy' enough to lube the sector shaft, but not too sloppy to leak.

I didn't know about your Moly grease at the time.  Not to muddy up this topic, but I was going to ask you if you thought it would work for my steering knuckles?  I didn't replace that stuff when I did my rebuild.

Tim
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:44:22 PM »

I see you did what I did on my steering box too Tim. I put a grease fitting on the top and put moly grease in which is what you have it looks like.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:39:18 PM »

This is when I rebuilt my steering box. �My tube is also fully set on the box. �If Mac's tube is a reproduction, they may not distinguish between a shorter early version and the longer 3A version...

Or

The inner shaft isn't seated fully on the bearings. �If the bearings popped out of the race during re-assembly, the inner shaft would be too long. �I'm just not sure you could re-assemble the box with the inner shaft not fully seated.




Posted by: macrisel
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:36:12 PM »

I'm really not sure.  When I took the steering wheel off 5 YEARS AGO it was a miracle to get the thing off and I wasn't paying attention how far down the tube sat on the steering box or how much play the steering wheel had in and out.  A few other questions that might be related to this:

1.  How tall should the spring under the steering wheel be?  Maybe mine has relaxed and is not holding the steering wheel off the tube enough.

2.  My horn button is an aftermarket one and is made a little different than the stock one.  I don't think it will make a difference, but............?

3.  Will it hurt anything to scoot my tube up some?  I don't want another place for a leak to start where that opening is.  However, in my parts manual there is a diagram of the steering column and in it there is an "Oil Hole" listed on the steering tube.  Could it be talking about this opening?
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:45:37 PM »

Quote
Mac,
I read somewhere that the 2A...or is it the MB...steering tube is shorter than a 3A tube. �It looks like you have plenty tube on the steering box to clamp onto. �I think your fix is just fine! 8-)

Tim


Saw this after I posted my pic. Maybe the tube is supposed to be shorter??
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:39:39 PM »

Not sure what's happening but something isn't right. Here's what mine looks like:
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:38:57 PM »

Mac,
I read somewhere that the 2A...or is it the MB...steering tube is shorter than a 3A tube.  It looks like you have plenty tube on the steering box to clamp onto.  I think your fix is just fine! 8-)

Tim
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 16, 2013, 09:34:47 AM »

Mine is in the garage,out of the jeep, and the tube is all the way down against the steering box...

My tube is 34 5/8" long, and there is 1 3/4" of shaft showing at the top.....

I don't think it's ever been apart...it's out of a '51
Posted by: macrisel
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:48:14 AM »

So I went to install my steering wheel and my new horn button tonight and I ran into a few hiccups. �I started out with my steering tube all the way down on the steering box. �With it like this, when I screwed down my steering wheel nut it left no room for the rubber horn button cover to release and cut off the horn. �After I cussed and discussed with myself for a while, I loosened up the tube and scooted it up 1/2" and got the play I felt I needed at the horn button. �Does this look about right?



Also, should the steering wheel have any in and out play against the steering tube?