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Topic Summary

Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 06, 2013, 03:05:47 PM »

I give up. Monday I am going to seek the advice of an older gentleman just down the road from me. He works on older flat head tractors a lot. I am at wits and expertises's end. If he can't help me with an easy fix. Blue may not appear at the show. I have begun the process of putting a new piston and all new rings in the red head motor that I removed from Blue. I will more than likely fix the leaking rear main seal while I am at it. Yeah a motor re-swap. No parts from Walck's yet. Cross your fingers.

Posted by: CJPilot
« on: April 05, 2013, 08:20:50 PM »

At this point you need to confirm that the engine is internally OK. You have changed everything external.

I had an XPAG chew up a cam due to the zinc being removed from the newly formulated motor oils. �It took a few years to figure it out. Do a Google search to check out solid tappets and zinc.



Best of Luck
Steve
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 11:04:06 AM »

Just pulled the valve cover and fired it up. Half the tappets are not turning.
Posted by: SDSUPILOT
« on: April 01, 2013, 09:58:48 AM »

Scout,
After I rebuilt my engine I had a similiar issue caused by several things. �Hesitation under load and occasionally popping through the carb. �I did the same checks with the points and condensers, fuel pressure, rebuilt the carb, checked the valves... �To make a long story short, double check your timing. �When I was completing my rebuild I incorrectly timed my engine and all I needed to make my engine run great was advance the timing about 10�. �
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 09:49:16 AM »

I'm going back in to gradually, to carefully check the valves. OH well, at this point I think I've got one sticking or not seating correctly. I am keenly aware of the difficulties trying to diagnose a problem over the net. I humbly thank you all for your efforts to help. I will let you know the outcome.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 01, 2013, 09:00:49 AM »

Quote
I don't see how it could dry out in two weeks.

It is a possibility. You said you are at a dead end and I'm throwing out ideas. It is worth a shot.
Posted by: RedWilly
« on: April 01, 2013, 08:31:04 AM »

What is the vacuum reading under load/driving? A restricted exhaust will cause vacuum to drop under load and result in lack of power. Valve timing issues due to worn gears or chain or sticking valves/weak springs will will cause fluctuation under load. When you say "hiccups" are you referring to actual backfires through the carb or exhaust or minor misfires?
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 07:59:43 AM »

I don't see how it could dry out in two weeks.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 01, 2013, 07:51:15 AM »

Quote
With 50 being the absolute minimum for operation, I'll take 70psi for compression. I guess you missed the part about four different carbs and two fuel filters with no improvement to same problem across the board. The fuel pump has been active since rebuild. I had it on the motor I pulled out of Blue and transferred it to this one. It gave me no problems before. This motor ran like a Singer Sewing Machine when I pulled it.


I know you replaced carbs and fuel filters. I am trying to relate to issues I've had. Not enough fuel on two occasions has caused similar problems for me. You have already eliminated one by swapping out carbs. I would still try changing out the fuel pump. Like I said, when it went dry during the engine swap, that could have damaged it.
Posted by: Matto
« on: April 01, 2013, 07:40:14 AM »

You could try using a temporary electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator fed from a clean gas can. Run it directly to your carb and see if it makes a difference.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 07:39:34 AM »

I have a vacuum gauge in line to test carbs. Idle is 20-22 in/hhg. With an occasional tiny blip accompanied by a burble in the exhaust and a bounce of the heat riser lollipop. Heat riser is working fine. My points don't have a helper spring. I'm looking into that. And the fuel line from the tank.
Posted by: RedWilly
« on: April 01, 2013, 07:22:51 AM »

As Bob W said, hard to diagnose from a distance. You seem to have ruled out primary and secondary ignition systems with the components you have replaced. Fuel pressure seems OK, but need to double check volume as others have said. Have you installed a vacuum gauge? Look for the obvious, low vacuum or fluctuation under load. Could be a sticking valve, weak valve spring, worn cam as previously mentioned restricted exhaust system.  You have the basics of fuel, compression and spark but they need to be at the correct time. You seem sure that the timing is correct but do you have worn gears or chain? Just a few suggestions that come to mind.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 06:21:35 AM »

With 50 being the absolute minimum for operation, I'll take 70psi for compression. I guess you missed the part about four different carbs and two fuel filters with no improvement to same problem across the board. The fuel pump has been active since rebuild. I had it on the motor I pulled out of Blue and transferred it to this one. It gave me no problems before. This motor ran like a Singer Sewing Machine when I pulled it.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: April 01, 2013, 06:05:08 AM »

That compression sounds low, but that is what my '49 has about, 80 across the board.

On the fuel issue, my '49 had the needle seat in the carb keep on plugging up so very little fuel could get in. It did about the same thing as you describe too. Try replacing the fuel pump too with a brand new one. You said it was rebuilt several years ago. The one on my '49 started to go bad, and that caused problems. I replaced it, and they went away. The old one pumped, but not enough. This ethanol destroys the rubber. I've heard of the rebuild kits not being as great as a new pump for some reason. It could be that when the fuel pump sat dry, the ethanol screwed it up.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 01, 2013, 05:33:44 AM »

Quote
How is the compression of the engine? I had a 2A with horrible compression and that thing wouldn't get out of its own way.

Nate, warm compression is (1) 70, (2) 72, (3) 80, (4) 72 and you are the second person to mention the cam.  The bucking is, while not violent, abrupt and short duration shuddering.