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Topic Summary

Posted by: athawk11
« on: January 06, 2013, 09:35:44 AM »

I went at this a bit different than you are. �I installed the engine on the mounts, and supported the back side with a jack. �I then installed the bell housing, �then the transmission. �This approach made it easy to align the clutch with the transmission imput shaft. �Once the transmission was installed, I slid on the support member. �I had to occasionally adjust the jack below the engine until I had the crossmember bolts loosely in position. �Once all these surfaces were together, I tightened up the motor mounts and the crossmember bolts.

I then added the transfer case to the installed transmisssion.
 ï¿½
Note: Make sure the clutch fork and cable are in position prior to mating. �I've heard your can install these through the bell housing access hole, but I would'nt want to try it. �My cable slipped off the fork during the mating process. �It was...difficult... getting it back on. �My hands aren't huge, but I would have done better to leave this task to a 6 year old.

I didn't take too many photos during this process. �I was too excited and just couldn't stop for photos. �Here is a photo after the transmission and crossmember were in place and tightened up.


Here is one after the TC was installed, among other things.






Posted by: F Bill
« on: January 06, 2013, 09:20:44 AM »

Sounds like a plan... Feel free to cut an paste my list ....

One thing I might add...sometimes to get the bellhousing bolts in you need the little bit of access gained by keeping the friont mounts out and dropping the engine down farther than the stock position. I don't put the front mounts in permanently until all the bellhousing bolts are in and tight. Then I do as you, install then loosely in the front plate, drop the engine back down, line up the frame holes with a punch and then install the lower bolts.  Speaking of bolts.....if you clean up all your bolts so the nuts thread easily you will make things a bunch easier for yourself.

You can also use dowel bolts to help line up the engine to the tranny.

You need to use a clutch lineup tool or old input shaft to line up the clutch disc when you install it, or you won't be able to slide that last inch or so where the input shaft goes into the pilot bushing.

I realize you probably already did that but in the spirit of making a check list for a beginner I included it.

I will be on the road again  starting today so I won't be replying as quickly as I could when I was enjoying the time off at home.

What I would do, is as you get input on this thread, edit your first post to include the  actual items on a punch list for engine installation.

We have a bunch of members who recently installed motors, I hope everyone will add their 2 cents or more.  :) My last engine job was at least three years ago and probably unless I had written down a list I'd forget something.
Posted by: BMIC
« on: January 06, 2013, 06:44:31 AM »

Bill I am going to start a new thread on this in hopes that it can become comprehensive enough in content to develop a FAQ entry on installing the L-134 Go Devil engine.
Right now I am a front transfer case yoke oil seal away from being ready to install the engine. Maybe #1 on the list should be Murphy's Law on parts delivery, "if you work on your project on weekends, parts always arrive in Monday".

 I have no body parts installed at this point, my goal right now is just a rolling chassis. The transmission and bell housing are mounted in place on the frame. The engine is completely rebuilt and ready to install. Flywheel has been resurfaced and a new clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and carrier installed.
I have new motor mounts loosely mounted to the engine plate and the correct dowel bolts ready.

Now ?