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Topic Summary

Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 15, 2012, 07:34:16 PM »

Quote
I can see a -10 degree morning in February where you look out the window and proclaim, "What a perfect day for a ride in the Willys!"


-10 degrees? Not a problem. Just like snowmobiling only slower.

Plus, the Harrison wafts just enough heat over the right foot so I can still feel the gas pedal. I plan to leave my left foot frozen to the clutch pedal. Brakes aren't worth a hoot anyways so that pedal can be ignored.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 15, 2012, 05:57:40 PM »

An open air 30 mile ride in 20 degree temps? �Awesome!! :) �There is no cure for crazy. �You are totally hooked on Willys. �Time for an intervention. ;D �If you keep this up, I can see a -10 degree morning in February where you look out the window and proclaim, "What a perfect day for a ride in the Willys!"

Really glad to hear the engine is performing well. �Eventually, you will run out of these minor nuisances.

Tim
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 15, 2012, 03:07:44 PM »

In an effort to test the new head stud I put nearly 30 miles on the Jeep today. It's only 20 degrees out so perfect weather for an open air adventure. The new stud appears to be holding its own. No coolant leaks there or anywhere else around the head, which is a huge relief. I'll continue to keep an eye on it, of course, but it looks like I won't need to tear the motor apart, at least for now. I still need to change the oil and see if still turns to milk. I don't think it will.

I do have what appears to be a separate small leak in the radiator, right at the base of the filler neck. I thought originally it was a bad radiator cap but turns out it's more than that. Coolant bubbles out slowly but ends up blowing back all over the motor once it drips down near the fan. I may end up pulling the radiator out and taking it to the shop for a thorough once over. It is original to the vehicle and I haven't done anything with it aside from straighten out a few bent fins a paint it.

Once again, thanks for all the advice on that head stud. Another crisis averted. Anyone have any advice for full-body frost bite?
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: December 12, 2012, 09:28:41 PM »

If it leaks don't worry about it. The thread will finally stop leaking. A few of my studs leaked after my overhaul and after a few weeks they stopped. If it doesn't stop it may be the head gasket but you really won't know unless you pull the stud and reseal it and if that still doesn't stop the leak it's probably the head gasket.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 12, 2012, 08:32:43 PM »

I am very nervous about putting maximum torque on the nut. As it is, I gave it a very hefty heave and was scared to death doing that. I didn't use the torque wrench but I bet it's close to 50 ft/lbs...maybe more. I'll run the motor later this week and see what happens. If it leaks I may be forced to roll the dice and torque it again.



Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 12, 2012, 08:09:38 PM »

There are some longer studs available, but I think you're fine.  If you have 5 turns you've penetrated about 1/2" into the block. 6 turns would be about 9/16".

This is going to turn out fine.  I think I might be a little nervous to put the full torque on that stud.  What are you thinking there?

Tim
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:37:41 PM »

No but I have an extra stud that I ordered and in laying it next to the bolt that was there previously I'm guessing it's in 5, maybe 6, full turns.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:11:26 PM »

Did you happen to count how many turns it threaded in?
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 12, 2012, 06:49:43 PM »

New head stud arrived today. I screwed it in as tight as I could but really needed to double-nut in order to drive it the last little bit. That left me with a small amount of the stud sticking up past the nut. I'd like to have used it all since I know I am already missing some threads down in the head but I don't know what other options I have at this point. �I put some permatex on the stud threads so I'll let it sit a day or two before adding coolant and firing it up.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 10, 2012, 11:34:24 AM »

Ryan,

I'll tell you, I have a real sense of relief for you.  This is just a minor setback.  Just like the brake switch.  Little bugs requiring little tweeks...and additional calls to Walcks. ;)  It's funny how we all seem to fight the same battles.

Tim
Posted by: BMIC
« on: December 10, 2012, 07:39:25 AM »

Read your initial thread last night with equal parts of frustration and joy. Looks like Tim, Carl, and Bill have a handle on the problem and potential solutions so I'll just continue to follow the thread. Good luck buddy, hope there are enough threads left in the hole to fix the problem.

On the up side a 20 mile Sunday cruise is every 3A'ers dream.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 10, 2012, 06:13:44 AM »

I ordered the stud and nut (and spares) from Walcks. I'll update this once I receive and install it.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: December 10, 2012, 12:22:59 AM »

Do not use a bolt, I will have to see if I have the length of the studs but you need to use a stud and nut. All the holes in the block deck go into the water jacket and have to be sealed when you put the stud in. You can buy a stud and nut from Walcks and they are exact replacements.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 09, 2012, 09:48:53 PM »

Ryan,

From what I've read, the consensus would slip in the stud. Years from now, when you need to replace a head seal, a stud will normally allow you to remove the head without pulling the stud.  Sometimes a bolt may seize, then break off in the block.  That would be a real bummer if all you were going to do is replace the seal

Tim
Posted by: F Bill
« on: December 09, 2012, 09:47:22 PM »

Quote
Ryan � �I'm new to L134's, but my engine has a stud in that location. �Maybe the bolt is too short now that an oil filter bracket is installed.

Steve

I have a feeling you want to use a stud in that location if you can.....and make sure it is as long as possible and grabs as many threads as possible. You may need to pull the head and helicoil that hole if there aren't enough threads to hold your torque.