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Topic Summary

Posted by: bretto
« on: September 28, 2012, 06:47:13 AM »

Bingo!
Looks like you are in business.  Bummer about the oil pump, that $$$ could of been directed elsewhere I'm sure.
Posted by: Shalka04
« on: September 28, 2012, 04:39:21 AM »

I pulled the timing cover and thought I would share what I found:

The red arrow indicates where the gear oiler jet SHOULD be located, but was omited during the rebuild 30 years ago.
AND because they are so elusive as far as photos, I thought I would post what the jet should look like:


Now I am getting a steady 40Psi worth of oil pressure, is this OK, in range or to high?

-John
Posted by: bwtufts
« on: September 21, 2012, 10:20:17 PM »

Yank off the fan, fan belt, and the the crankshaft pulley and you should be good. No need to remove the pulley on the water pump. All and all, it should be a fairly simple process.I would take the radiator out too. This is not a necessity, but it will give you a little more room and there will be less chance of you messing it up!

Posted by: Shalka04
« on: September 21, 2012, 08:42:25 PM »

Since I last wrote I had to replace the water pump and in an effort to resolve my NO oil pressure I installed a brand new oil pump from Walcks.
Still no change.
So tomorrow I go in search of whether or not I have an oil jet where it should be.  
I've never been in the front of my engine so is it just a case of pulling the fan, then pulling the fan bel pulley and removing the timing cover?
If by chance my oil jet is actually missing, any suggestion on where to get one or do I need to have it made?

-John
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: September 12, 2012, 09:55:36 PM »

Take a real hard look at the timing gear oiler jet.  That one got me.  It should be the .03 diameter as shown in the post above.  If not replace it or weld it shut and re drill to spec.  Also if your pressure is thAt low you may consider disconnecting your oil filter by pulling the line at the block and plugging the hOle with a 1/4 pipe plug.  The oil filter takes oil from the number one bearing, so if you have low pressure to start with it can only hurt you.  Don't worry about filtering the oil for now, you won't hurt anything by running without the filter during the diagnostics.
If your pump is pushing oil at the right flow, you should get 30 psi pretty easily, if you fix the stuff above and can't get a significant rise you have a more costly problem.  Then look at the pump and maybe bearings.
Posted by: Shalka04
« on: September 12, 2012, 07:46:21 PM »

So today I took off / out the big bolt that holds the pressure relief spring and plunger inside the pump.
The bolt looked fine, the spring looked fine, but the plunger was actually a Ball Bearing.  It fit in there relatively close, but it wasn't what's shown in any diagram i've fuond so far.
I expected a lttle metal cylinder.

Is this why i'm lacking oil pressure?

-John
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: September 11, 2012, 12:34:25 PM »

I would wonder if the pressure bypass in the oil pump was stuck after all those years of sitting. Next, I would wonder if the timing gear oil jet had been accidently left out.



Larry
Posted by: F Bill
« on: September 11, 2012, 08:50:19 AM »

Have you had the original oil pump apart and checked all the clearances? Often lapping the end plate and making sure everything is clean and operates properly is all you need. Especially check your assembled end clearance.  Is your releif valve stuck open?

At the other end of the pump is your pickup tube and oil pickup screen. Has it been apart and cleaned up thoroughly? If you have not had the bottom cover off it there is a good chance it is still dirty.  Are all the gaskets in place and sealing properly?? Is the pickup tube mounted right and not damaged?

There are also a few oil gallery plugs that can be left out, losing massive amounts of oil pressure.. You may want to study the lubrication system chart in the book, and inspect all the galleries and theri respective plugs... Is this a chain drive engine or a gear drive cam? Do you have the filter hooked up? I think JOhn Barton's rebuild guide over on the G 503 shows the plugs I am talking about.

One thing you could have done while it was on the stand and before your pan was on, is to pressurise the oiling system with an external oil source. If there were any major internal leaks they would have shown up under pressure.

When you have to finish another mechanics work often these sorts of issues pop up....just part of the game, and if you methodically eliminate possible sources of pressure loss for teh entire system I think you will find your problem. I am assuming all your main, rod, and cam bearing clearances are fine.

Good luck!
Posted by: Shalka04
« on: September 11, 2012, 03:58:46 AM »

Quote
John,
 ï¿½I'm not an engine guru by any stretch. �I'm sure others will chime in. � The only thing I might suggest, beyond the oil pump, would be the cylinder rings. �Does it burn oil? �Are your spark plugs oily? �

This is interesting. �I'll be watching this thread.

Tim
Hey Tim,
Thanks for the reply.  No to everything you asked.  No burning of oil, no smoke of any color out the tail pipe, and what's coming out of their doesn't smell weird.  Plugs look like they came out of the box yesterday.

I was about to order a new oil pump before i sent this.  Walcks has them for $105, and while that is a chunk of change for sure, I know i've wasted more on alot less, so what's one more part to the rebuild.

Real question is can I swap the pumps out without pulling the engine?
Then there's always the screwing up the timing when I do swap them out.

-John
Posted by: athawk11
« on: September 10, 2012, 10:46:08 PM »

John,
  I'm not an engine guru by any stretch.  I'm sure others will chime in.   The only thing I might suggest, beyond the oil pump, would be the cylinder rings.  Does it burn oil?  Are your spark plugs oily?  

This is interesting.  I'll be watching this thread.

Tim
Posted by: Shalka04
« on: September 10, 2012, 10:10:56 PM »

A little history:
The engine was rebuilt by an engine shop about 30 years ago and never installed.  I've spent the better part of the summer replacing anything and everything that was dry rotted.  As far as deep inside I replaced the rear seal, at that time everything else looked OK.

I'm at the point where I can start and run the engine for as long as needed.  My main goal before putting the front metal on is to verify oil pressure.  Good luck with that he says.

I have an oil pressure gauge on two ports, one to the direct left of the oil pump and the other to the right, back near the bellhousing.

At a regular idle the pressure isn't enough to push the air out of the oil line and register on the gauge.  That's on the new mechanical gauge I picked up yeasterday.  The one that came with the jeep is on the middle port to the left of the pump.

Well as i said at idle there's basicly no oil pressure registering on either gauge.
At around 2,000 rpm's the pressure goes to 8 maybe 10psi.

Since I don't know the history of the oil pump I figure that's the way to go.  if one of the engine passages were blocked i'd think one of the two gauges would read normal, but with them both low I figure the pump is bad.

any thoughts?

-John