The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:
Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: Bedrock
« on: June 27, 2012, 10:31:08 AM »

I seems worth fixing to me, either by welding or pinning.  If you do decide to have it fixed, I would recommend that you have it sleeved back to standard.  Boring it further, if it is already .060 over, is asking for trouble in my opinion.  Hope it works out.
Posted by: BMIC
« on: June 27, 2012, 05:03:08 AM »

Thanks CJ and all, I have kept the block as a last resort and turned my attention to finding a better one. Here in Maine we seem to have an ample supply of old Willy's either resting in someone's back yard or as my buddy RyanM posted last week, some fairly pristine finds sleeping in the barns. I have found a good prospect about 40 miles away and hope it is all the seller claims. I will try to post some pictures of it with this reply. Again thanks to all for the great advice on different methods of repairing the old block.
Posted by: CJJay
« on: June 26, 2012, 09:41:34 PM »

what ever you do don't try any chemical sealers through the radiator, I learned the hard way. My machinist came to my house and used a chemical and peening process and it slowed it down but didn't stop it. I would get it welded if possible.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:59:19 AM »

A lot of people have good luck with that and if it fails you just clean it out and do it again. The expansion and contraction of the block would eventual make the JB weld leak but it's easy to redo the fix.

Pinning it would be permanent.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:13:19 AM »

You guys know more about this than I do, but if that crack by the dizzy is just a water jacket crack, could a guy groove it out a little to clean it up and use a JB Weld type product to seal it.  That would be a pretty cheap repair and my experience is that JB is pretty durable stuff.  I just don't know how it would hold up under pressure.  Thoughts?
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: June 09, 2012, 07:49:41 PM »

That's not true. If you bore the block to .080" over and successfully use it until it needs another rebuild the block can be bored out and sleeved. You can bore a block out completely into the water jackets and sleeve it. In fact many racing shops bored flathead Fords out completely and then sleeved the bores so that the cooling was even on the cylinders. The even thickness of the cylinder walls made the flathead Fords run much cooler.

What you have to do is use a thicker sleeve. Any good automotive machine shop can do that. The largest you could safely bore a flathead Ford was 3 3/8+.030" which mine was bored to and with a 4" Mercury crank it was a 291 ci engine. At that point the cylinder walls were very thin and it would run hot. The safe way was to bore the walls out completely and sleeve it and bore it to what you desired. I believe at that point it was 3 1/2" max. and with a Mercury 4" stroke crank it was a killer torque engine off the line.

I was 17 years old at the time (summer of 1958) and bored my own block with the boring bar I now have that my uncle used in his speed shop and I built my own flathead Ford engine with. Bored, stroked, relieved, ported, polished, 3/4 street cam (high torque low end), 3 two barrels on Edelbrock manifold, Fenton cast iron headers Eldelbrock heads flycut and domed for popup pistons, special modified distributor, in a 1951 two door sedan. 0 to 30 in 3.2 seconds, 0 to 60 in 6.8 seconds, 0 to 100 in 13.7 seconds and it was a street racer and the flood of memories come back when I call for them.

Those were good years and I bring them to mind from time to time.
Posted by: WTB853
« on: June 09, 2012, 12:32:12 AM »

I am at the exact same spot as you right now.  I dropped off my block @ the machine shop this afternoon.  It is currently bored .060 over and I have my fingers crossed that the magnaflux comes back clean.  I have been reading up on the "bore vs sleeve" decision and wanted to share a quote I saw somewhere over on the 2a page.  I am paraphrasing but it went something like this...........

"It depends on whether you are building it for the short term or long term;  if you bore the block .080 over and plan to have the jeep 30 years from now facing another rebuild, you won't have the option to sleeve - not enough material left - whereas if you sleeve now, it may be more expensive in the short term, but you will have more options available to you in the long term........"

I butchered it but you get the idea -
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: June 07, 2012, 11:55:26 AM »

Welding is quicker, cheaper, and easier but pinning is a workable option providing you can find a shop that has experience doing it. In my experience it's easier to find a competent cast iron welder than a competent pinner. Both avenues are worth exploring, however.

Larry
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: June 07, 2012, 09:27:21 AM »

I too recommend pinning the crack. You can get .080" pistons but then the cylinder walls are thin and it may overheat. I think sleeving it would be a good idea. Ask around and find the shop with the best results from pinning. Welding is a crap shoot and it takes a person that has done a lot of blocks and even then it has failures.

I would prefer to have my block cracked like yours rather than where mine is cracked. You want to trade  ;D.

There is a problem with doing that. The common procedure is to leave a shoulder at the bottom of the bore to set the sleeve on so it won't move in the bore. With a bore .060" that would leave a recess at the bottom of the sleeve. I don't like that and I am considering getting a sleeve with a shoulder at the top of the sleeve so the sleeve can go all the way to the bottom of the bore if I sleeve my original block that is .060" over.

The issue at the bottom of the sleeved bore is probably more cosmetic than a mechanical issue but it just troubles me knowing it's there.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: June 07, 2012, 09:13:35 AM »

Why not pin that crack instead of risking welding and opening it up further?
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: June 07, 2012, 08:28:35 AM »

The crack next to the dissy is fairly common and should be repairable by a competent shop. You need someone who knows how to weld cast iron. Since you're already .060 over I would recommend sleeves. If that's all thats wrong with the block it's not junk, in my opinion.

Larry
Posted by: BMIC
« on: June 07, 2012, 07:37:41 AM »

I went to the machine shop that did a magnaflux check on my block in April. At that time the machine shop stated that it was not worth fixing and i have been looking for another. After reading the posts and replys on CARLSJEEP over the past week I started wondering how bad my block really is. The magnaflux revealed just the one crack on the side,(see picture) the rest of the block is solid. The only other issue with the block is that it has .060 pistons and needs a boring to .080 or sleeves. Opinions gentlemen.... :exclamation[IMG]