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Topic Summary

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 22, 2012, 06:24:21 AM »

Herm the overdrive guy sells them. I just ordered the bracket and banjo bolts from him. Bubba had put a dual MC in a junker I have and it turned out the MC was the correct one for this swap.
Posted by: hawkjeep
« on: March 21, 2012, 08:02:13 PM »

Were did you get the 90� brake fitting. I need them for my cj3a
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 18, 2012, 09:08:23 PM »

I was in the shower and realized a forgot some things!

I added an OD to the mix. Instead of using the rubber boot, I used another T84 leather shifter boot. Some trimming and it looks factory.




A power outlet and stainless grab bar



Dual MC conversion (and stainless break line kit, which I had done early on). You'll see the reason why I decided to change out. ;)



Replaced the cheap plastic seat belts with chrome lift latch ones.



The way I mounted my tub. I used some hockey pucks and valve springs. Why? Well, the springs allot the frame to flex more independently from the tub. Yes, they do work great! I did this on my trail rig. I used to have problems with body weld breaking and now I don't.



And you're probably asking, why the heck are there no hood blocks!?!?! Simple answer, I don't need them. The top is a pain to take off, and I have this little handy device. It a hood prop rod that was on a junk 2A hood. I made a little doohicker that bolts on the grille for it to go in and locks it there so the wind can't take it.



And how my engine compartment is today. I made a stainless battery bracket and converted it to a delco 10si alternator. Incase anyone is wondering, the alternator is compatible with the stock wiring harness. No modifications have to be made.

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 18, 2012, 08:23:00 PM »

They are 7.00x15s made by Star-Richmond Tire Co. They also have double purpose on the side. Sad thing is, I'll have to replace them this year. They are getting pretty low on tread. �:(

I'd also like to share some modifications I did, that I didn't post up. Besides the Harrison heater mods in this thread, these are some subtle things I did.

I made this little bracket that bolts to the tranny. It is for a reverse light switch. Its been on there for 3 years now and has been working great.





I also found this really neat glass ball reflector.


And to put turn signals on, I made 8 aluminum spacers, 4 per side, to push the stock parking light lens out further for a dual filament bulb.





The turn signal switch I used, it came off an early 3B. Looks more correct than the ones from the parts vendors.



I got a brass fire extinguisher and a really rare 3 barrel tire pump. Neither work, just for looks.



And my favorite mod was the jerry can holder. It bolts to the draw bar and has a pin to remove it so the tailgate can be opened.





And of course, the original type soft top!



Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: March 18, 2012, 05:33:13 PM »

GG
Tell me about those tires, they look nasty cool!!  Fit the Jeep nicely.
Todd
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 18, 2012, 08:17:53 AM »

I did use a little on the hood and fenders, just to hide the nasty looking spot welds. Other than that, nothing. I guess I got lucky with a decent repro hood. My original one had major oil canning and it would have looked really stupid.
Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: March 18, 2012, 01:04:35 AM »

garage gnome,
  In this recent pics of your restoration you have a great one of your hood.  It looks perfect.  Is it a reproduction hood as well?  I had a lot of grief with my MD Juan hood. I had to use bondo, and that the last place I wanted to use it.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 17, 2012, 10:43:57 PM »

Haha Bill, that what my Dad's business does, we install Rotary lifts and can pretty much equip a shop with exhaust systems and lubrication equipment. If you want a good used one, we have plenty, the next time you're up here, let me know.  ;)

The buffing went pretty good. There is still a little compound in the seams like the center of the hood. I scraped most of it out though.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: March 17, 2012, 10:11:55 PM »

Neat pics, even neater LIFT you got there.. Nothin like top of the line ROTARY lifts!! I miss the lifts I used to use every day......but someday I'll get a shop built with high enough ceilings to have another..

So....how did buffing out the tub go with all those body lines, lettering, ribs, etc??? I helped Alan Boyd buff out Lefty once, it was a royal pain  to do and there were spots I couldn't get to with the big buffer...And that Luzon red needs polishing quite often.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 17, 2012, 10:00:54 PM »

Sorry guys, I had no time to post up some more of the build.

Fast forwarding through the assembly of the body, she came together really nicely.





My dad buffing it.




We finished it on Easter Sunday by putting the windshield glass in and we took if for a drive over to my Grandparents!


Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 13, 2012, 08:05:35 PM »

Yes, I had that same problem too. I notched the opening so I could go in low range and I also had to notch it for the OD shifter too. My original body was so bad, I couldn't even save the tranny tunnel!
Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: March 13, 2012, 02:02:19 AM »

Quote
This is why a repro body sucks. I'm sure the original isn't much better either. I had to use a a lot of bondo to make it straight and look nice.
My repro tub looked just like that before primer. �Had I known how much body work would have been required on the repro I would have considered more seriously trying to salvage my original. �

The worst problem I had with the repro tub was the misalignment of the hole over the transmission. �It and the firewall seemed to be about an inch and a half to far rearward. �I'm glad I bolted the tub to the rolling chassis before paint so that the cutting, welding, and grinding could all be completed prior to paint. Did you have any such problems?




Worked out okay with a lot of effort. �Had to shorten the tranny cover panel to fit the new opening.

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 12, 2012, 09:16:11 PM »

This is why a repro body sucks. I'm sure the original isn't much better either. I had to use a a lot of bondo to make it straight and look nice.





All that hard work sure payed off! The primer coat looked real nice. :)





And it looked even better in color! I used base coat - clear coat. The color is standard red from a 90's GM pickup.









My dad starting the paint/showing me how to do it.



And me taking off with it.



Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 09, 2012, 09:30:36 PM »

Since the chassis was done, it was time for body work, oh joy. �::)

Since my tub was so bad and wasn't worth the time in repairing it, I bought a reproduction body kit, which was still no better (you will see later on why). I didn't use the windshield frame because it was really crappy compared to my original, which was in real nice shape.



We started by building the jeep, so all the holes and fitment would be there after paint and it would hopefully go together smoothly.



I probably drove it around for a month like this! This pic made it into the 2010 Early CJ5 calendar. At one point, we had everything on it like lights. My advice would be if you do buy a repro tub, build the entire jeep first then paint.

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 09, 2012, 08:50:55 PM »

Thanks Bob! I thought it was original, but I wasn't 100% sure because it had looked like someone replaced the engine. All the bolts for the bell housing were not originals.

Tim, I turned 19 In January. I started restoring this when I was 14 during the summer between 8h grade and 9th. I finished it when I was a�Junior when I just got my license.

Sorry gunslinger, I don't have any shots of the 10" guts. I can take one tomorrow for you. Do yours have a self adjusting mechanism?