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Topic Summary

Posted by: RussellL
« on: March 13, 2012, 10:28:47 PM »

Chevron Delo 400 LE has formulations for older diesels as well as newer ones.  The 15w-40 Multigrade and all the single grades seem to have high percentages of ZDDP.  Check out Chevron's website.  You can see the MSDS's for their different oils.  
Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 09, 2012, 10:27:25 AM »

Thanks Larry.

Tim
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: March 08, 2012, 10:05:15 PM »

I'm running 20W-40 diesel engine lube oil. The oils for diesel engines still, or did, contain the required levels of ZDDP. When the EPA poked it's nose into oil specs I stocked up on 5 qt jugs of the stuff. Probably last my lifetime. Tractor Supply still stocks some of the good suff.

Larry
Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 08, 2012, 09:47:42 PM »

A better rear main and better oil and additives...

This post has made my day.

Thanks Gun.

Hey Larry,  what oil do you run with?

Tim
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: March 08, 2012, 12:51:35 PM »

I too have found that the Zinc additive is the key ingediant for these old engines, I'm running a Joe Gibbs break in oil in Triple X right now (200 Miles since rebuild) and was wondering where to go from here.  Maybe the Mobile one is the right way to go.  In either case you can and should buy the Zinc additive if you are using mineral oils.  The newer formations don't have enough zinc in them.

BTW Tim
Midwest Military has a new rear main seal design, its not cheap $30.00 I think, but John is solid on it and it seems to work, you should be able to just slide it in without dropping the crank.

Todd
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: March 08, 2012, 12:01:49 PM »

It's a riot how Mobil beats around the bush with their answer and never tells you the truth at that link. The fact is, Mobil only has one oil it recommends for flat tappet applications and that is Mobil 1 15W-50. It not only has 1200ppm of phosphorous but also 1300ppm of zinc, which is what really matters. Here's their own chart, it's the second row from the bottom, sixth column over.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Larry
Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 07, 2012, 04:53:24 PM »

Hey Tom,

I actually may give the Mobil 10w-40 High Mileage a try. The Walmart by me has it on the floor.  (5 quart container for $26.50)

I am currently running Valvoline 5w-30 conventional.

I was nervous about synthetics, but since you offered yourself up as a ginni-pig, and wrote up a well informed post, I feel a bit better about it.

I have been disappointed to find that after all my efforts to seal my Willys, I still have a rear main leak.  (new rubber style seal from Walcks)

What the heck,  it's a 65 year old engine built to be beat to death.  Sounds like this stuff may actually help it.    

Tim
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: March 07, 2012, 01:15:55 PM »

I did look into the cam issue. �

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flat_Tappet_Engines.aspx

If you're really concerned about it, the 15W50 might be the ticket.   Note though that the 15W-50 does NOT have the seal conditioners.  According to Mobil 1 and the OE manufacturers that they work with, a phosphorus level of over 800 ppm is safe for a flat-tappet engine.  The "high mileage" formulas are 900 ppm.  The 15W-50 is 1200ppm.

And, sorry if you have seen this topic somewhere else to excess.  I've been on the 3A page for about 4 years and have read very little about it here.  I just know there are guys like me who like synthetic oil and I wanted to share my experience.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: March 07, 2012, 01:00:59 PM »

The problem with synthetic is that it does not protect the flat tappet cams. You need this little thing called zddp. It lubricates the cam and lifters. without it, you will get premature wear. I just had to replace the cam in my 225 v6 because one lobe had become completely round. 20w-50 and 15w-40 has high levels of zddp. I run 20w50 in my jeeps. This topic has been beat to death. Tons of info about it.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: March 07, 2012, 12:49:02 PM »

A little over a year ago I wrote in to see if anybody had experience using a synthetic (like Mobil 1) in these old Willys engines. �As I recall, no one had and a couple of the members advised against it. �Well, not to be deterred, I decided to take on this little experiment after some research. �My main concern was whether or not I would develop new leaks, not whether or not a synthetic would harm the engine. �I have been using Mobil 1 in all of my vehicles and small engines ever since I could afford it which, I guess has been about 35 years or so. �
 
Prior to the switch, I had a small leak at the rear main - after a long drive I would have maybe 3 drops of oil on the floor overnight. �Also, I had a couple of small drips from the pan gasket. �Other than these drips, all was pretty well sealed up. �
 
From the Mobil 1 website I saw that their "High Mileage" formulas are what they recommend for older engines as they add "seal conditioners" to them. �These chemicals are meant to "swell" gaskets to some extent. �So, a year ago I put in 5 quarts of 5W30 high mileage Mobil 1 to see what would happen. �I should mention that I started with a pretty sludge-free engine as I had dropped the pan for cleaning and inspection some time prior and had done a couple of frequent oil changes in order to assure that things in the engine were as clean as possible. �
 
After a couple of weeks the pan leaks had stopped completely, and I still haven't had a drop from them in a year. �The drip at the rear main is still there but only a third of what it was before with conventional oil. �Now after a long drive, I'll go out to the garage the next morning and I have only one drip on the cardboard under the jeep. �Oil consumption is the same as before, using about 1 quart in 1500 miles, but I don't have as much visible smoke on start up, and none at all after warm up. �Compression is also the same as before - 105 psi on each cylinder. �
 
A couple of weeks ago I changed the oil at 2500 miles or so. �The oil that came out was still relatively clean and had life left in it but I like to change once a year whether needed or not. �It was noticeably cleaner and not as black as oil changes I'd done with conventional oil. �I have to believe I'm getting much less wear of engine parts. �I wanted to see if I could improve on my overall oil consumption so I refilled with Mobil 1 �10W40 high mileage. �Will see in a few months if the thicker formula is of any benefit re:burn off. �I have noticed that cold starts are much smoother with synthetic oil. �And, for those jeeps that run in hot conditions, I think there is less likelihood of the oil breaking down from heat or hard driving.
 
So this has been my experience switching to synthetic motor oil. �I'm sure there are other brands as good or maybe even better than Mobil 1, but based on what I know now, I would say you want a synthetic with the added "seal conditioners" for an older engine. �Can't vouch for other brands, but in the Mobil 1 "high mileage" formulas, they really do seem to work. �I hope this is useful to those of you who like synthetic but are "on the fence" like I was - a bit nervous trying it in an old 134-L.