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Topic Summary

Posted by: bayo500
« on: January 01, 2012, 05:52:45 PM »

Yeah, I'll ball peen them flat, well spotted...
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: January 01, 2012, 05:31:54 PM »

Solder it or braze it, anything else is a crap shoot and it will leak again. Also, I noticed there are some places where the pan bolts have been pulled to tight and the pan has been deformed. You HAVE to flatten the surface where it bolts to the block because any uneven surface will cause a leak.

Fix it right, fix it once.
Posted by: bayo500
« on: January 01, 2012, 05:14:38 PM »

OK, thanks guys, the kero test before i fit is a great idea, I'll sit it overnight.

Only numbers i can see are a 3 stamped ether side of the front near the timing cover area, the block casting is 11 28 �C lh rear
Posted by: F Bill
« on: January 01, 2012, 09:52:45 AM »

I would clean it really well and either solder it �or rebraze. Any epoxy or glue type of fix eventually will get eaten up by the hot oil.. altho some say JB weld products will work in this application. I would be worried about an occasional bump on the pan causing the epoxy to crack. �Solder if properly applied will flex with minor bumps. � Whatever you use be sure to test it for leaks with some �kerosene or other thin solvent in the pan ..If you aren't confident in your ability to repair it , try a radiator shop to solder it up.

On your other post , I would install the timing cover and pulley to make certain it is centered , then tighten it down, then install the pan. A smear of RTV on the inside of the front pulley will help seal it, I dunno if installing it dry will result in a leak or not. � Also on each junction of the timing cover to the block use �a dab of RTV to seal the connection..No more than a pencil eraser sized dab. I like to use spray gasket cement on the pan and bottom of the oil pan gasket, to glue it to the pan...(3M weatherstrip cement will work here too) and I use a tiny amount of RTV hi temp silicone on the top of the gasket immediately before assembly. All you want is enough to make a visible coating on the gasket, any more can plug things up in bad places.You do not want so much that it oozes out upon assembly. Novice engine rebuilders sometimes �like to use a big bead of the stuff and when it oozes out inside the oil pan the next place you find it is in passages blocking lubrication and ruining engines...

When you are cleaning the block  where the pan sits take notice of your assembly date if there is one stamped in the pan rail... it is the only time you will be able to see it..
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: January 01, 2012, 09:39:49 AM »

Steve,
I've been a fan of JB weld for this kind of repair for a long time.  The key with JB or any other repair is to make sure you isolate the crack or failure area completely, clean it with a high volitlity solvent so that all of the oil is gone gone gone, and then make sure you rough ithe area up enough to alow the JB to adhere.  I'll often drill a hole on each end to make sure that the JB has a solid anchor in the repair area, and for cracks I gouge them out quite deeply in order to get the liquide metal to flow into the repair.
Posted by: bayo500
« on: January 01, 2012, 06:13:02 AM »



Hi again
Cleaned out the sump pan...
I always thought it was leaking between the pan guard and the pan and when I cleaned inside I found epoxy on the spot welds so I was right, the epoxy has finally cracked letting it drip out along the plate.
What do you think brazing, welding or more epoxy -  or maybe some sort of liquid metal.
Apparently the spot welds on engine sumps and fuel tanks have been a problem for many years, they seem to seep...
Steve in OZ.