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Topic Summary

Posted by: dtgolder
« on: December 17, 2011, 04:47:06 PM »

Agreed. Sounds like a needle / seat / float that's not working properly
Posted by: Matto
« on: December 17, 2011, 09:23:54 AM »

Mike,
       � �It's also possible a particle of debris entered the line between the pump and carb while you were replacing the pump and is now caught between the needle valve and seat. This would not allow it to close and result in too high a level in the fuel bowl. This link expains the float circuit in a Carter WO. http://www.mightymo.org/Proj_carter_wo_101.htm
Matt
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: December 17, 2011, 07:27:44 AM »

Mike,
When you say "under the carb" can you be a little more specific?  Is the leak at the manifold gasket where the carb joins the manifold? Or is it further up the body?  One of the things I've found on all my restorations is that when you get one part of the system working to the correct specifications, ie pressures, flows... what ever, then you will usually find a related part that is not up to spec, usually downstream.  My guess is that you have some hardened gaskets in the carb, or maybe a float that isn't seating right, Mine developed an air leak between the carb and the manifold just from sitting too long over the winter.  It may be as simple as tighteng the screws on the carb body.
Posted by: mikeguad
« on: December 16, 2011, 07:37:46 PM »

Ok, so the fuel pump is installed and the Jeep idles great, however when I drive it (or just start revving the engine) fuel begins to leak out from under the carburetor and the engine begins to sputter and die. Everything ran perfect until I replaced the fuel pump. Could there be a problem with my install or the pump itself? I find it hard to believe I would suddenly have a faulty carb.

Thanks

Mike
Posted by: mikeguad
« on: November 29, 2011, 10:34:29 AM »

Thanks for the tip on making my own spacer, sounds like a great idea. Hopefully I'll have a running jeep by the end of the week.

Thanks.

Mike
Posted by: athawk11
« on: November 28, 2011, 11:16:43 PM »

Hey �Mike,
 
You can make your own metal spacer with a few basic tools. � Get a small chunk of 1/8" to 3/16" common steel. �Use your new pump base as a template. �Draw the shape with a fine point sharpie pen. �With a grinder, vise, safety glasses and a cutting wheel, cut the piece to shape. �Slip on a grinding wheel and grind it down to the precise shape. �Drill the two mounting holes. polish it up with some 220 sand paper and waa laa, home made spacer.

I made mine this way. �Same reason as you. �No need to spend that kind of money for a small piece of steel. �You will also feel a sense of satisfaction from making your own part.

I am no expert on when a Willys needs a spacer. �Rocketeer and others here will know for sure, but I believe the CJ3A and M38 pump with the vacuum function require a spacer. �If you don't use the dual action pump, then no spacer is required.

One reason for the spacer is that it reduces the pump pressure. �Another reason I have found is that it will fit better tucked in behind the front engine mount plate. �Good luck, and welcome to the site.

Tim �
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 28, 2011, 10:01:06 PM »

As I understand it the spacer is about 1/8" thick. You can make two thick gaskets to make your own spacer and use RTV sealer.

I am not really sure which needs a spacer or not but I've read the fuel pump with vacuum pumps use a spacer.
Posted by: mikeguad
« on: November 28, 2011, 09:08:03 PM »

Hello -

I bought a fuel pump (mechanical with vacuum) on ebay for my cj3a a few months ago and installed it without a spacer using a single gasket (I didn't know about spacers at the time). The fuel pump broke after about 5-10 miles - fuel leaking into the block. The seller replaced the pump right away and says it was probably just a defective diaphragm. He says the pump does not require the spacer.

I'm new to this, so I wanted to ask before I have another problem... Should I install a spacer or not? Assuming I should, does anyone know of a parts dealer in the Los Angeles area? Trying to avoid $15 shipping for a $6 part.

Thanks.

Mike