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Topic Summary

Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 26, 2011, 08:17:01 PM »

Hey Bretto,

The hat channel that crosses directly below the gas tank has a threaded insert.  The bolt is screwed up through the out rigger body mount and into the hat channel.  This is the only mounting location that is done this way.  

I am no pro, but probably a couple reasons for it. 1. A through bolt with a hex head under the gas tank is probably not desireable.  It could rub and eventually cause a leak. 2. If you want or need to remove or lift the tub, you don't need to pull the gas tank to do it.

Tim  
Posted by: bretto
« on: October 26, 2011, 02:10:35 PM »

What and where do you mean by a threaded insert?
Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: October 25, 2011, 11:55:58 AM »

Hey there CC - did the channels from Classic fit well? I believe they had the crush sleeves in them as well? Were they also threaded?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 25, 2011, 11:01:42 AM »

Hey Comanche_County,
I actually had to weld the Midwest hat channels together. Thus the lower price I guess.  They are pretty nice overall.  They had the anti crush sleeves and threaded insert, thus I didn't have to put the wood back in.   Measuring before welding was tedious, but I did want the transmission tunnel channel.

Tim  
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: October 25, 2011, 02:16:23 AM »

I wish I'd have read this thread before I ordered hat channels.  I got mine from Classic for $185 shipped to TX.  Looks like the Midwest kit is a little cheaper plus it includes the transmission tunnel hat channel.  I'm still happy with the Classic Kit, its very good quality and the welds and craftsmanship look top notch.  But I guess I should have gone with the Midwest kit.  How does the welds and accuracy/alignment to the bottom of the tub look?  My Classic hat channels line right up, but I wish they had the tunnel portion.  

Midwest:


Classic Ent:
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 15, 2011, 11:45:11 PM »

I hear you on the tub beating. �I spent hours and hours with a hammer and dolly. �The extra supports were a necessity on this tub. �There were areas that were pretty thin once the rust was removed. �I know it's not stock, but my choice was to replace the floor or stiffen the original floor. �

Thank you again for encouragement.

Tim
Posted by: bretto
« on: October 12, 2011, 04:25:40 PM »

I like the added hat channel under the bed portion.  I just spent the other night beating the crap out out my tub taking out the waves and thought they should have added more.
Posted by: Jesse
« on: October 03, 2011, 02:51:27 PM »

Nice work!

Good choice on the classic enterprises and midwest military stuff, I think most people wouldn't bother importing anything if they knew how good it was.
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: October 03, 2011, 02:16:17 AM »

Fantastic work!
Posted by: RandyA
« on: October 02, 2011, 01:43:02 PM »

I totally understand, and yes I was kidding....very nice work sir....the wife thing I also understand..mine suggested a cigar box to keep track of my purchases for Beuhla...that lasted about the first or second order from Walcks...then I moved too a boot box....now I kinda got my eye on one of those Christmas tubs at Wallyworld.......maybe even two of them.....again beautiful work.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: October 01, 2011, 12:11:31 AM »

Thanks for the kind words from all. �
Randy, though I know you're kidding, I'm sorry, I can't trade. �It's by no means perfect, but as much time as this tub took to get back to a decent condition, my wife would kill me. She's already * at me for the time spent in the garage. �If I would have know the total hours spent on the tub alone, I would have considered it a steel to pay $3000-$4000 for a new tub.

Roberto, I got the front floor pans ($65.00 each) and the tool box sides from Classic Enterprises and the hat channels from Midwest Millitary. �The links are below. ��I really wanted to do the rear pan too, but I just couldn't pull that trigger. �Too Much $$$. I opted to add additional hat supports to the rear pan to stiffen it up a bit. �

The web sites are: �http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php#4164 � �http://www.midwestmilitary.net/m38p12.html

�
The pans fit pretty well after some cutting and shaping the edges at the Transmission tunnel area. �The few extra inches came in handy as the rotten steel climbed up the tunnel edges.

Andy, I too thought about an undercoat. �But from what I read on the jeep sites, if you ever want to get it off for repairs, it's nearly impossible. �And there is a potential for hidden rust to develop, so I opted to coat the whole tub (and chassis) with Master Coat Silver. �A POR 15 kind of product with regard to its rust proof qualities, but unlike POR, the Master Coat can be sanded and painted using any top coat. �In the end, I really wanted the underside to match the top side. �

I am close now. �Have been wet sanding. If my wife let's me, I may be able to get the top coat on the tub this weekend. �Fingers crossed.� �
Posted by: Redrockman
« on: September 30, 2011, 09:49:51 PM »

That's some fantastic work there, are you planning to undercoat it too? have been figuring out if i want to undercoat then paint to protect it or try some of that rubberize coating then paint.

Seems like the best work comes out of a garage........... � ;) ;) ;)


Andy
Posted by: Roberto Flores
« on: September 30, 2011, 04:35:23 AM »

Athaw11, no problem at all!!!! Cool shots! I have still a lot of work to do! Boufffff!  :-/

Just curious: where have you got the new panels? Many thanks! And keep us informed.
Posted by: RandyA
« on: September 29, 2011, 01:31:31 PM »

very nice.....wanna trade??? ;D
Posted by: macrisel
« on: September 28, 2011, 10:31:01 AM »

Looking good!  Keep up the progress! ;)