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Topic Summary

Posted by: jeffb
« on: October 09, 2011, 06:26:08 AM »

I'm in the same boat with a 51 I just bought with a stuck motor.  I have read considerable experiences from the tractor old timers and have resorted to vinegar also.  Haven't worked on it for a week however vinegar continues to seap through the cylinders and amazing to see how much "crud" it is removing.  Have been spraying the valves as well.  Good luck.
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: September 24, 2011, 01:33:43 AM »

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�Does anyone know where I can download the Willys Mechanics Manual? �The disassembling the engine is the easy part, I want to make sure its right when I put it back together. �I don't mind paying for a hard copy if I have to.

One of our CJ-3A members has documented the overhaul of his L Head engine as he overhauled it. �It has pics and a lot of detail. �You can get to it without going out of the 3A Page site if you click on the MEMBERS button at the top of the page. �Then on the first page of members that comes up scroll down about 13 lines till you get to DOUG. �Click on DOUG to get to his profile. �Scroll down to Website: flatfenderfever and click on it. �Or you can simply go to www.flatfenderfever.com. �Once there you will see many worthwhile options. �The overhaul instructions are found on: My L-Head Rebuild & Projects. �

I agree with Carlsjeep about having a hard copy. �I printed Doug's book and put it in a binder. �Makes a handy overhaul manual. �

Keep us posted about your progress and please include photos. �And remember, there's lots of expert advice right here (as you have already learned). � �


Thanks for all the advice guys.  I've been away from the Jeep for a week and haven't progressed much.  But you guys are truly a huge help.  The above site is great. Beers on me,,,,,,its in the fridge,,,um you'll have to get it yourself though.   :)
Posted by: p3ferris
« on: September 17, 2011, 04:06:17 PM »

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WILLYS-JEEP-JEEPSTER-FACTORY-REPAIR-MANUAL-1938-1949-/280736646228?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415d354454
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: September 16, 2011, 10:06:08 PM »

 ;D I was too until I couldn't read one important page :-[. They did ride me a little about how particular I was about keeping my manuals clean at work.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: September 16, 2011, 12:21:53 PM »

At the risk of hi jacking the thread, I'm a believer in a greasy dog eared mechanics manual !!!

Just for fun Carl.
Todd
Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: September 16, 2011, 01:06:43 AM »

Quote
�Does anyone know where I can download the Willys Mechanics Manual? �The disassembling the engine is the easy part, I want to make sure its right when I put it back together. �I don't mind paying for a hard copy if I have to.

One of our CJ-3A members has documented the overhaul of his L Head engine as he overhauled it. �It has pics and a lot of detail. �You can get to it without going out of the 3A Page site if you click on the MEMBERS button at the top of the page. �Then on the first page of members that comes up scroll down about 13 lines till you get to DOUG. �Click on DOUG to get to his profile. �Scroll down to Website: flatfenderfever and click on it. �Or you can simply go to www.flatfenderfever.com. �Once there you will see many worthwhile options. �The overhaul instructions are found on: My L-Head Rebuild & Projects. �

I agree with Carlsjeep about having a hard copy. �I printed Doug's book and put it in a binder. �Makes a handy overhaul manual. �

Keep us posted about your progress and please include photos. �And remember, there's lots of expert advice right here (as you have already learned). � �
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: September 15, 2011, 11:39:06 PM »

Using calipers to measure the bore is not a good way. you need to use a bore mic or telescopic gauge to find out what the bore really is. A .020" difference in the bores is not acceptable. If the bore is .010" oversize it needs to be bored out and use larger pistons.

You will be better off to buy a hard copy of the manual. It's easier to use in the shop than trying to use a computer while working on the engine. Please wipe your hands off before flipping pages in the manual. Don't get the manual greasy.
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: September 15, 2011, 09:52:48 PM »

Yup, got the pulley off, crank and valves are out, just need to get the cam gear off so I can pull the cam.  Does anyone know where I can download the Willys Mechanics Manual?  The disassembling the engine is the easy part, I want to make sure its right when I put it back together.  I don't mind paying for a hard copy if I have to.
Posted by: macrisel
« on: September 15, 2011, 03:31:06 PM »

Nice!  Let the rebuild begin!!!
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: September 14, 2011, 09:56:05 PM »

The vinegar did it. �I was amazed. �I started to take the flywheel off and while removing it, she turned! �I cranked it a little to loosen the caps slightly. �Pulled those off easily, three pistons came out easy, and I just tapped the stuck piston from the inside with a piece of wood and it pushed right out. �The vinegar trick was pure magic. �
I think the engine looks pretty darn good. �My micrometer measured between 3.14"-3.16 in all the bores and there's no noticeable ridge at all.

Now I just have to get the darn lower pulley off!







Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: September 14, 2011, 05:23:12 PM »

Quote
Quote
While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.

pay attention to this too. �A stuck valve will ruin the cam and not let you move the �crank unless it happens to break

Roger that, the vinegar is still working, well at least its doing something.  There's a slow but constant flow of bubbles coming up the cylinder walls and its creating a layer of foamy residue on the surface of the vinegar.  I'll give it some more time and see if it moves.
Posted by: p3ferris
« on: September 14, 2011, 09:38:34 AM »

Quote
While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.

pay attention to this too.  A stuck valve will ruin the cam and not let you move the  crank unless it happens to break
Posted by: Comanche_County
« on: September 13, 2011, 11:47:49 PM »

I've got it soaking in vinegar now...if that doesn't work, I'm contemplating this:  http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I'll try a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone next, then a little bit of BHF, then the ATF/Acetone...

I refuse to be beaten by this engine!
Posted by: Matto
« on: September 13, 2011, 09:26:32 PM »

While looking at the stuck piston you should also check the valves. The stems can rust into the block from moisture in the clylnder head. Use a brake adjuster or large flat screwdiver to pry gently between the tappet and valve to make sure each valve operates freely.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: September 13, 2011, 08:18:30 PM »

White vinegar seems to work well. At least that's what I have heard.