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Topic Summary

Posted by: jamesr
« on: June 02, 2011, 10:22:48 AM »

FYI:  One of the duties of a thermostat, besides the obvious, is to restrict the water flow volume that the pump can produce, to a level that it has a chance to absorb head heat as much as possible, and gives the radiator a chance to cool the same liquid. Without this restriction, the coolant can flow so fast through the head and radiator, it cannot do its job of absorbing the head heat and transfering that heat through the radiator cooling fins to the atmosphere. In some cases you can actually overheat your engine without a thermostat installed.  Jim
Posted by: brotherdavid
« on: June 02, 2011, 10:13:55 AM »

 ;D thanks guys, I'll drill a hole in it.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: June 01, 2011, 11:13:57 PM »

I had the same problem, only my bolt broke off at the head, I took it to a head shop and for $25.00 they fixed it, bored it out and put in a helicoil.  I like that.
Posted by: jamesr
« on: June 01, 2011, 06:49:25 PM »

I drilled mine also.  Jim
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: June 01, 2011, 05:09:51 PM »

Quote
Bro. David, I agree with Carl. Just drill a hole in it. �;)
I am using a 180 degree stat and I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in it. It has been working great for the past couple years.
Yep.

Larry
Posted by: Chasm
« on: June 01, 2011, 02:20:49 PM »

Bro. David, I agree with Carl. Just drill a hole in it. �;)
I am using a 180 degree stat and I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in it. It has been working great for the past couple years.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: June 01, 2011, 01:26:23 PM »

Just drill a 1/16" hole in it.
Posted by: brotherdavid
« on: June 01, 2011, 09:15:42 AM »

does anyone have the part # for the thermostat with the air relief in it? I went to napa and they didn't have one. I would use a 160-180 deg. thermostat. thanks
Posted by: ventport
« on: December 02, 2010, 09:13:48 AM »

Street Rodder Magazine did a test of different penetrating oils and a 50% mix of acetone and auto trans fluid worked better then WD 40, Kroil, or PB Blaster.
Posted by: jamesr
« on: December 01, 2010, 08:34:38 AM »

Glad someone enjoys it.  That is why my broken manifold/head bolts went straight to the machine shop for removal---to give them great pleasure and satisfaction, while lessing my anxiety.  I know my limits. Jim
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: November 30, 2010, 11:11:23 PM »

Larry, in the hundreds of bolts I have removed there were few times the bolt was loose enough to be removed with a left hand drill bit. 90% of the time the reason the bolt broke off is the threads were frozen together in the hole.

The only times I was successful at using a left hand drill bit was when I could move the broken part with a center punch but it was to deep in the hole to be easy to remove. Then I would try the left hand drill and most the time it worked.

I have removed broken bolts and studs from almost anything you can mention. What I hate is when someone try's to remove it and drills off center, uses an easy out and breaks it off, breaks a drill bit in the bolt or many of the other things people dream up to remove them and only make it worse for the machinist.

I usually start by mounting the part in a mill or drill press and centering in up to drill the bolt. If I can't use a drill press or mill I will do it with a hand drill. When the drill starts into the part if the bolt moves I will then use a left hand drill bit to see if it will come out. If it backs up and stops I then go to a right hand drill and drill a hole through the bolt, soak it with penetrating oil and use a punch that fits in the threaded hole and tap on it a little. Then I take some square easy outs and drive one in and turn the broken part back and forth until it finally comes out. The spiral easy outs are almost worthless.

However, 90% of the time the bolt is frozen in the bolt hole and will not move. I have drilled them and chiseled the remainder out as described by someone, burned them out, used heat and wax and penetrating oil. Most the time removing broken bolts is very hard and takes a lot of patience. Sometimes it would take a week or longer just working on it a few minutes each day until it starts moving.

If you have to get it out fast the only way is to drill it over size and install a heli coil insert or one of the other inserts available. I like removing broken bolts because it is a challenge.

I guess we can agree to disagree though.
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: November 30, 2010, 08:09:04 PM »

Quote
The times a left hand drill removed the bolt an easy out could have done it too. �
I'm going to gracefully disagree. Here's why. A tapered extractor functions by applying sideways/outward pressure which is actually detrimental to turning the bolt loose. The harder you apply pressure to the extractor the tighter your making the bolt in the hole.

A reverse drill, however, applies no side pressure in the hole and once the remaining metal is thin enough the drill bit grabs the metal and creates circular pressure on it inducing it to turn. Your odds of spinning the bolt/stud out are significantly greater with a reverse drill.

I'm not saying a reverse drill is the cure-all. What I'm saying is that drilling it out may be the only way to go and if it is, then a reverse drill gives you an edge.

Larry
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: November 30, 2010, 07:49:51 PM »

I probably should have said not ALL the holes go through. Usually there's at least one closed. My bad.

For the open holes put thread sealer on the bolts before inserting.

Larry
Posted by: Doug
« on: November 30, 2010, 03:34:58 PM »

Larry, I have seen some heads where all the holes were blind bolt holes.  For what it's worth, on many of the heads the bolts are through bolts to the water jacket.  My Willys civilian head and a GPW head in my possession both have two of the three bolt holes open to the coolant below.   I wish there were all blind because mine have been an occassion for leaking and requiring resealing.  




I counted the threads and there was a total of 7-8 threads in each of the through holes.

One other thought on this subject, sometimes machine shops will burn a really stuck low grade steel bolt out of a cast iron block with a oxy torch, I think as a last case scenario.   Machine shops have 5 tricks for everyone one that the non-expert has.
Posted by: jamesr
« on: November 30, 2010, 03:11:28 PM »

While rebuilding mine, I did that a time or too also.  Jim