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Topic Summary

Posted by: Bob W
« on: April 01, 2011, 06:12:39 PM »

For setting the studs the factory used Permatex form-a-gasket #1 or equivalent, cut 3 to 1 with menthol or 188 proof denatured grain alcohol.
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: April 01, 2011, 02:57:59 PM »

Quote
install them to almost the full depth of the threads, but do not force them.
Yep, finger tight only.

Use non-hardening Permatex as a sealer.

Larry
Posted by: mark103
« on: April 01, 2011, 01:01:51 PM »

Thanks for all the help guys, I thought red silicone was a bad choice to, but it's high temperature. Do you think the white Teflon stuff Permatex makes would stand the heat? I bought some of that to, but was afraid to put in on because of the heat.
What do you all recommend?
Thanks again
Mark
Posted by: F Bill
« on: April 01, 2011, 12:35:02 PM »

Try either a good automotive machine shop or a bearing place for the speedi sleeve. Be prepared to have the dimensions you need, they may not have it by application.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: April 01, 2011, 12:33:51 PM »

If you do a search for head stud installation over at the G 503 you wil run into a lot of ideas....one thing that sticks out to me is you double nutted and turned the studs in as far as you could, it seems. That may have been a mistake. Once the threads are clean, and the block threads are clean..(use a threadchaser only if you have to..) you apply sealer to the studs and install them to almost the full depth of the threads, but do not force them. A non hardening thread sealer is best, silicone is not something I would use on threads. Also don't dump sealer in the hole and screw the stud in....as you will end up putting amazing hydraulic pressure to the thread area and possibly crack something.

When the head is installed you want a thread showing above the nut,washers are not specified from what I have read. Studs are a stronger install than bolts, and less apt to have problems than bolts.

It sounds like you may need a custom length in your case. If you use shorter ones you may have holes pull out or strip, and there may not be enough clamping force for a good gasket seal. Make sure sealer is used as  studs do  go directly into the water jacket and leaking around the head nuts is a common problem.
Posted by: rocketeer
« on: April 01, 2011, 11:26:06 AM »

The head bolts need to be seated into the block. If you try to adjust the height by leaving some thread out of the block you're risking stripping one out when you torque the head. According to the 1949 parts manual, third edition, they should be 3 9/16" long. If they're less than that they are too short and need to be replaced with the correct length.

Walcks sells the correct studs:
http://walcks4wd.com/cylinder-head-stud-l-head-4-cy.html


Larry
Posted by: mark103
« on: April 01, 2011, 11:09:13 AM »

Thanks Carl, I'm getting ready to head out to my man cave and do a do over.
Do you have any information on the speedi sleeve for the front pulley?
Thanks for the help
Mark
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: March 31, 2011, 11:39:25 PM »

Mark, read the above post again, I added some to it.
Posted by: mark103
« on: March 31, 2011, 11:38:23 PM »

Thanks for getting back so quick. I'll have to do that tomorrow. Looks like they would have made them longer :(
Thanks
Mark
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: March 31, 2011, 11:32:35 PM »

Back in the day they probably used the Permatex black thick sealer to seal the bolts. You can use RTV or Gasket Maker many of the new type sealers.

You want about 1/8" of threads sticking above the head bolt. You will need to remove the studs and reseal them and put them in the correct height.

You could put the studs in with the sealer on them, slide the head on without the head gasket and then snug the nuts down to be sure enough thread is sticking up. That way you won't hurt the gasket and the bolts will be sealed.

you could even do it all at the same time. The RTV sealer will take about an hour to set up. You could seal and install the studs, install them, slide the head gasket on, slide the head on, put the nuts on and torque them and let it dry over night. Then go back the next day and break each nut loose and retorque it. The reason to loosen and retorque is the nut will take a set and it will take extra torque to make the nut move.

When retorquing bolts they have to be loosened and then retorqued to spec.
Posted by: mark103
« on: March 31, 2011, 09:39:35 PM »

I was out in the garage today getting my engine ready for the head. I cleaned all the head bolts, and applied a little red glue sealer, and put them back in with jam nuts and tightened them with a snug fit. When everything was cleaned up and I put the head on, the studs were to short. I could only get half a nut full with threads. :o It's been 2 years since I have worked on her, but I've always snugged studs down when I replace them. Do I need to get longer ones, or just turn these out 3/8 of an inch. Looks like the more threads you have in the block the stronger the head bolts would be? My head bolts are 3-3/8 inches long, has anyone ever replaced these with 3-7/8 studs?
What kind of sealer is supposed to be used, I had some permatex red silicone, and use that. They didn't have silicone back in the day, does anyone know what they used when our girls were new?
I also need a speedy sleeve for my front crank pulley, it seems I've read on the board where some one did that. If you would tell what size and where I can get one I be much obliged.
It seems all I have is a lot of needs and a lot of questions, don't mean to be a bother.
See ya
Mark