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Topic Summary

Posted by: Bill04SD
« on: July 02, 2014, 07:27:05 PM »

flatfender on a CJ5 frame....


frame before cutting...


the front end....
Posted by: Mike S
« on: July 01, 2014, 07:20:22 PM »

Well, if it is not a hassle and doesn't look like a deformity... wonder if I could find a CJ5 225 frame with the motor mounts still in it?

Posted by: Bill04SD
« on: June 29, 2014, 09:22:29 PM »

It's not to hard to modify the 5 frame to get the crossmember back under the body.  As stated above you really don't notice the extra length up front.  I've done two flatfenders now with CJ5 chassis.  Both of the ones I did used 1970 CJ5 chassis so I also picked up the dual circuit master cylinder as a bonus.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: June 29, 2014, 02:30:14 PM »

Thanks, Cadwelder. Much appreciated.
Posted by: Cadwelder
« on: June 28, 2014, 06:46:54 PM »

As far as I know, 3A and 3B frames are interchangeable.  Modifying a 5 frame is not that hard if you end up having to go that route...contact me if you do, and I can provide some details.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: June 28, 2014, 03:41:21 PM »

Thanks. If the CJ5 frame is 3" longer, it sounds like some surgery would be needed - on the frame or the tub. Probably won't go there.

Is the CJ3B frame the same (or nearly so) as the CJ3A frame?

Thanks again,

Mike
Posted by: Cadwelder
« on: June 27, 2014, 04:36:48 PM »

The frame from an early CJ5 will easily work under a flatty body. The frame rails themselves are identical with the exception of an extra 2-1/2" of length on the front horns, and 3" extra on rear. Crossmembers, spring hangers,  and shock mounts are located a little differently, and the front crossmember is rectangular instead of round. Body mount brackets (those that weren't omitted at the factory) are in the same place.
The only downside I see to using a 5's frame under a flatty is the extra length. It may not be obvious in the front, but having the rear crossmember sticking out 3" just isn't right. and you'd lose the rear body mount locations.
I started to modify a V6 CJ5 frame to a 3's dimensions when I found bigger issues with 5 (paper thin in spots). Have since repaired the 3A frame and have it at the sandblaster now.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: June 25, 2014, 03:45:36 PM »

Here's a link to the 3B page article on using the Cj5 chassis.

http://cj3b.info/Tech/FrameCJ5.html

It is not a 3A or a 2A but the 3B flatfender is basically the same idea.

Well worth doing as suggested, especially if you are starting from scratch or have a bad frame.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: June 25, 2014, 01:25:54 PM »

Quote
If you don't already have a frame/chassis I'd look for a factory V6 CJ5 chassis.� It'll have the engine mounts, longer springs, and a 19 spline dana 44.

That's a good idea... any idea how much trouble it is to fit a 2A tubs to the CJ5 chassis?

Posted by: Bill04SD
« on: June 21, 2014, 07:28:34 PM »

If you don't already have a frame/chassis I'd look for a factory V6 CJ5 chassis.  It'll have the engine mounts, longer springs, and a 19 spline dana 44.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: May 26, 2014, 04:01:54 PM »

PROGRESS...

I bought a newly built 225 V6 (Offy DP intake, Sanderson headers, Comp Cams RV grind, new lifters, pistons, etc.) from a member on the earlyCJ5 BBS. Now planning on a Ford T18 with advanced adaptors short bell housing. I will need to sort out frame mounts for the motor and trans, etc.

Here's the engine:

Posted by: Mike S
« on: February 22, 2014, 12:23:43 PM »

Duffer -- Thanks for the advice. I can't imagine a tranny that is 50lbs. heavier than the SM420 I wrestled out of the back of my truck the other day. Since I already have it and it's in good shape, I'll likely use it. I am hoping that I will be able to move the engine forward a bit to help compensate for the additional length. Not sure how much I can get without firewall or other issues.

I have had zero issues with the D25 in my current 2A. I have a Warn FF rear w/ a Lock Right in the D41 with Warn Internal Hubs. This is a strong combo with beefy chrome moly axles. If I can buy a 3A chassis, then I can start with a D44 and build it.

Thanks again.
Posted by: duffer
« on: February 21, 2014, 10:10:55 PM »

I would likely use the SM465 because it is the shorter package and gives you a longer rear driveshaft.  You would have to get the index machined on the BOP bell.  Downside is that it is 40 to 50 lbs more than the SM420.

Also, don't waste your time with the D27.  I've had more problems with those than the D25's.  May as well just go for a D30 that is definately an upgrade.  I believe 76-86 have discs.  The rear D44 should at a minimum be the 19 spline version.  Better would be Herm's 30 spline full floater or the rare as hell 70 1/2 - 71 30 spline flanged axle.

I would also be boxing the frame but that would depend on the anticipated use.
Posted by: Mike S
« on: February 19, 2014, 01:23:30 AM »

Thanks, Nate. I was thinking I would use a standard BOP bell with a Jeep flywheel to attach the SM420 to the engine. Novak's has an adaptor for the SM420 to D18.

Not sure if I will have to removes the factory battery tray or how I will route the steering around the factory 225 exhaust. Ought to be a fun project, tho'.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: February 18, 2014, 08:16:22 PM »

Not familiar with the SM420, but I know it is not the easiest thing to adapt to the D18 and v6. Easiest way to do this is a T18 with a ford input shaft and a large hole D18. The stock 225 v6 bell can be drilled and tapped for the T18 mounting holes. You would need a T18 with a "texas" pattern on the back side. This is what I did for my jeep.