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Topic Summary

Posted by: RyanM
« on: August 24, 2015, 12:29:42 PM »

Good info, just did this myself. I recommend replacing inner seals just because they are cheap and you are already there. Replaced all seals, bearings, new grease and oil in everything. And yes, it's a very greasy and messy job.

Quote
You may have some luck finding axle information within a few of the �Stock 3A Projects� threads.

I did some work on my front axle, but this is by no means a comprehensive instruction.� There is some spider gear, king pin and knuckle seal information.� Look about half way down this page to see the start of my axle stuff�

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1364925701/60

This is a very greasy oily job.� It was hard to take lots of photos.
Some things to consider�

Inner seals.� I did not replace mine, but after inspection, you may need to.� These are in the axle tube right up against the bearings on the carrier in the pumpkin.� The only way to inspect and replace is to pull the carrier.� Not a bad job, but pay attention to the bearing cap orientation.� It�s important that they go back on the same way they came off.

Pulling the carrier.� This is pressed in pretty tight.� After the axles shafts are pulled out, I used a couple pry bars to get the carrier out.

King pin bearings and shims.� Pretty easy to mess with too.� They are often neglected.� You will see how bad mine were.� Appropriate shimming of the king pin bearings is an important step.� � Also note: There are two different axle designs during 3A production.� Early axles required shims on the top and bottom king pin to knuckle housing surfaces.� Later axles require shims only on the top.� Existing shim placement may not tell the whole story.� These are often missing or set in the wrong locations.

Pinion and Ring gear mesh.� I didn�t need to adjust the backlash on mine, but you may want to check this.� You can use some white grease or there are specific products out there for this.� Put it on the pinion gear, then turn the ring gear.� You will see how the two gears mesh.� You are looking for a specific pattern to appear on the ring gear.� You will find this information by using keywords�Willys and Backlash.

Hope this at least gets you started.
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: May 26, 2015, 09:43:40 PM »

Based on this post;

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1382533132

I should have a pdf copy of vernco website somewhere, let me see if i can locate it.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: May 26, 2015, 09:26:55 PM »

Tough to add to what athawk11 already summed up but here's a link to my 3A build. There are some pics and info of the steering knuckle overhaul and the hell on earth I went through with the rear axle.

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1390776835/0

I found the 3A Service manual and the M38 service manual to be great resources. The now defunct vernco.com was probably the most help. I wish I could locate an archived copy of that site.

If nothing else, post your pics here and we can guide you through each step.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 26, 2015, 01:23:42 PM »

You may have some luck finding axle information within a few of the �Stock 3A Projects� threads.

I did some work on my front axle, but this is by no means a comprehensive instruction.  There is some spider gear, king pin and knuckle seal information.  Look about half way down this page to see the start of my axle stuff�

http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1364925701/60

This is a very greasy oily job.  It was hard to take lots of photos.
Some things to consider�

Inner seals.  I did not replace mine, but after inspection, you may need to.  These are in the axle tube right up against the bearings on the carrier in the pumpkin.  The only way to inspect and replace is to pull the carrier.  Not a bad job, but pay attention to the bearing cap orientation.  It�s important that they go back on the same way they came off.

Pulling the carrier.  This is pressed in pretty tight.  After the axles shafts are pulled out, I used a couple pry bars to get the carrier out.

King pin bearings and shims.  Pretty easy to mess with too.  They are often neglected.  You will see how bad mine were.  Appropriate shimming of the king pin bearings is an important step.    Also note: There are two different axle designs during 3A production.  Early axles required shims on the top and bottom king pin to knuckle housing surfaces.  Later axles require shims only on the top.  Existing shim placement may not tell the whole story.  These are often missing or set in the wrong locations.

Pinion and Ring gear mesh.  I didn�t need to adjust the backlash on mine, but you may want to check this.  You can use some white grease or there are specific products out there for this.  Put it on the pinion gear, then turn the ring gear.  You will see how the two gears mesh.  You are looking for a specific pattern to appear on the ring gear.  You will find this information by using keywords�Willys and Backlash.

Hope this at least gets you started.
Posted by: DTFM33
« on: May 26, 2015, 11:25:52 AM »

I know search first......I Did and cannot find what I am looking for.� Does anyone know of a write up for a front axle rebuild. Rebuild may not be the right word. The Axle is original off my 49 CJ3A. What do I look for? I know seals need to be replaced. Other than that, it does not seems to show any other issues. I am pretty good technically. Rebuilt the Transmission and Transfer case. But, I have never messed with King pins before.� I have the axle removed and looking for advice.

Thanks

Dan