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Topic Summary

Posted by: Bob W
« on: June 05, 2019, 08:08:04 PM »

Is it possible you swapped ends of the clutch control tube?
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: June 05, 2019, 01:12:52 PM »

Cap on, cap off, I can't see that making any difference. I also can't see any reason for an air bubble to form in that location, especially if the gauge worked since the re-installation. Try the ramps, it can't hurt, but I'd bet that the capillary tube has gotten broken and the ether got away.  :(  Sorry to hear that, too...   BW
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 05, 2019, 09:43:26 AM »

BW, that is the conclusion I've come to also.  I don't think it would be worth it for the 50% chance it would be right.  I think...drive it until I need a new clutch!

I seem to have an air bubble near the temp sender as I'm not getting temp on the gauge.  It worked Monday night but not yesterday.  Any thoughts on the best way to bleed this out?  I will run it with the cap off today.  Would it help to get out the ramps?
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: June 05, 2019, 12:07:21 AM »

  If you can live with it, and adjust your technique to minimize the effect, it won't hurt anything - except - If you decide later to try turning the plate 1/3 of a turn (or 2/3), you may be unable to find the old "sweet spot". It may be gone. I think, if it were me, and I couldn't tolerate it, I wouldn't risk wasting an engine R&R on the 50/50 (or less) chance of hitting the old spot. I would, at that point, replace the pressure plate and surface the flywheel.
   I wonder if one could get to the pressure plate bolts through the inspection hole?   BW
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 04, 2019, 10:16:12 PM »

Thanks, BW - this is really good to know as I simply can't imagine what else it could be.  I do hope it will wear in in time...I'm not pulling this engine again! 

As to Randy's suggestions...I pulled the tape off the inspection cover and everything looks hunky-dory.  The spring is in place and I can see the upper fork arm in the right place behind the flange on the carrier. 

I also disconnected the clutch cable from the release fork, and I have nice smooth clutch action at the pedal so nothing binding in the linkage. 

BW, I hate to admit it but I feel like you are right on the mark.  Any harm driving with it like that?  I can adjust my technique, but I don't want to screw anything up in there.
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: June 04, 2019, 08:26:18 PM »

Tom said, "there is a 66.6% chance that the three arms of the pressure plate were probably not installed in the same position"

You may have hit the nail on the head. It's kind of hard to explain, but as the flywheel and the pressure plate wear and warp, they wear together, even tho the disc is between them. If you didn't get the pressure plate re-installed in the same position (one out of three), the highs-and-lows won't match up correctly, and you will have a grabby or chattery clutch. I'm sorry to hear this. Will it wear in with use? I don't know. It might be worth a try if you can stand it. Any time I remove a pressure plate from a flywheel, if there's ANY chance of it going back on that flywheel, I mark them both with a stripe of paint or some punch marks.   BW
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 04, 2019, 07:36:44 PM »

Randy, these are some good questions!  I do still have the resistance when it isn't running. 

I will try the "disconnect" you mention, and yes, I did use the same throwout bearing and carrier, which worked great before with my old engine. 

I do have that cut out in the bell housing.  I have it taped over right now but will take off the tape and see what I can see.  Thanks for the great suggestions!

I may try these things tonight or tomorrow.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: June 04, 2019, 07:08:01 PM »

Just a couple of thoughts...

Is the resistance there when it's not running?

I guess i would disconnect the control cable from the ear on the clutch control tube and see if the resistance is in the pedal/control tube assembly or further up the line towards the clutch.

Did you use the same throwout bearing carrier?

You might be able to look through the bell housing inspection hole and see if things are working smoothly as you or someone else works the pedal. I can't remember if you can see if the throwout bearing is pressing on all three arms evenly..

Randy
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 04, 2019, 06:37:17 PM »

I just came in from a short drive.  The clutch works as normal except for when the pedal gets to the point where the clutch should start to engage, there is a bit of increased resistance.  And then when the pedal release overcomes this resistance, it wants to engage a bit faster and so you don't have a smooth engagement and the wheels want to spin NOW.   

A similar analogy might be like when you're trying to loosen a nut:  the force builds, builds, builds, and then it breaks loose and your wrench spins quickly all of a sudden.  Not a perfect analogy, but maybe you get the idea. 
Posted by: 64CJ5
« on: June 04, 2019, 05:23:03 PM »

Murphy been lurking in the shadows of your shop?

No way I can give advice on this.  Some one will chime in soon.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 04, 2019, 03:29:25 PM »

Well, since you asked... let's see...Got everything in and back together last night.  She started right up.  Ran uneven at idle at first but after I messed with the timing and carb a bit, it evened right out and purrs like a kitten.  Joe seems to have done a stellar job with the engine but I haven't really driven it yet.  Why, you ask?  Well, the clutch is a little "grabby" and I wasn't sure I should drive it without learning more.

So here's the deal:  When I transferred over the flywheel and clutch I put them in the new engine exactly as they were in the old engine.  The clutch had worked well before so I wasn't going to mess with anything.  The flywheel looked good, pressure plate good, friction plate good, and the throw out bearing and spring and carrier all good.  Put her back together with the friction plate facing the right way, the alignment tool in place, and tightened down the 6 pressure plate bolts evenly so that I didn't get any binding at all and so that the tool slid out nicely.  The ONLY thing I did was wipe off the flywheel with some carb cleaner to make sure there was no oil on it. 

I adjusted the clutch freeplay and pulled out into the driveway.  The clutch just didn't feel right.  It seemed to have a point where it would build a bit more resistance and then it would grab as I let it out further.  I even burned a little rubber in the drive for the first time ever.  So I pulled back into the garage right away and looked it over this morning and again adjusted the clutch linkages.  I haven't driven it yet because I wanted to go talk with my mechanic.  He quizzed me and is also at a loss to explain what is going on.  He suggested that I just drive it and see if the clutch action smooths out.

Any thoughts on this?  Has anybody ever had a clutch misbehave after an R&R but without doing any adjustments or changes at all?  I would have thought it would work exactly as before.  The ONLY thing I can think of that might be different, is there is a 66.6% chance that the three arms of the pressure plate were probably not installed in the same position - I didn't note their exact position upon removal as I didn't think it would matter.  Any input is much appreciated!
Posted by: RICKG
« on: June 04, 2019, 09:49:17 AM »

Update??
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 02, 2019, 10:37:30 PM »

Beer is involved - maybe essential!  Okay so I got the old cap off with the leaking felt seal.  Hitting it back and forth with a small hammer finally loosened it up.  I replaced it with the new cap with the rubber seal.  Hoping this will keep all of my trans. fluid from coating my bell housing. 

Tomorrow is the day I will put the new engine in the jeep.  FYI, I left the fenders and the grill on the jeep and it came out with only minor scuffing.  But that was on me as I hadn't removed the Donaldson filter and that was the source of the tight quarters.  It is out now so I am in hopes that the motor will drop right in.  I also added some links to the hoist leveler which should allow the engine to swivel much better.  I have to run the hoist from the side (removed both tires) as it doesn't have the needed reach if I attack from the front.   

Thanks for the help and suggestions!
Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: June 02, 2019, 08:50:14 PM »

Watching your progress from Texas! You have some good guys in your area if you need help. Of course there may be beer involved!
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 02, 2019, 02:59:23 PM »

Hi Muley,  yes I did about 3 weeks ago.  It is a beautiful thing! 

Thanks, Randy, Rus, and Tom for your input.  More questions, which should remove any doubt about my ignorance...I've been studying the Universal manual trans. diagrams and I see that it just stops at the front cap and doesn't show the release bearing or carrier.  When I separated the engine from the bell housing I thought I'd be looking at the front cap...imagine my surprise to see this "bearing thing" hanging there! 

Anyway, Is there supposed to be a lot of play in the bearing as it sits on the carrier?  It is pressed on snug but there is a bit of play in the bearing case.  It appears to be a sealed bearing, but I have doubts that it still is sealed.  Just seems loose.

Also, I can't get the front cap off.  Removed the three hex screws, but the cap won't budge.  Tried a hammer and prybar but hard to get at it.  Is there a puller that I should have?  Any thoughts on how to get the cap off??

Any input is much appreciated!

Tom, that is a private event now so I won't be seeing you, but I hope to see you in Sept.  I hope you have a great time and that the weather is a little dryer this time around!  Man, last year was soggy.