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Topic Summary

Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: May 28, 2018, 05:42:14 AM »

The throttle and shaft wear into egg shapes. Wear to the shaft and bores of the throttle flange in excess of .005" is a vacuum leak. If you want to check it yourself, take care to sheer the split or peened threaded ends before you break the top of the screws off trying to remove them. Call me with questions 336-963-3605.
Posted by: DavidB
« on: May 27, 2018, 09:08:24 AM »

About 2 weeks ago, I did it myself, which I am beginning to regret. When I purchased this Jeep, it had a YF on it, and wasn't running well at all. I changed the intake and rebuilt the WO, and although it runs alot better now, it's still not right. I've checked about all I know to for now. The throttle body shaft doesn't seem too worn, wish I had a good known carb to rule out other issues.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: May 27, 2018, 05:39:06 AM »

When was the carb last rebuilt?
Posted by: DavidB
« on: May 26, 2018, 01:48:10 PM »

Well, it definitely runs much better, but still dependent on 3/4 choke..I think that it's time to waive the white flag and see if I can get someone to look at the carburetor for me.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 25, 2018, 12:10:57 PM »

Awesome!!

Hope it runs like a Swiss Watch!
Posted by: DavidB
« on: May 25, 2018, 08:51:31 AM »

Got the Valve freed up!!! I used Aerokroil and your advice on slowly working it up & down. Did not have to remove the head.It has good compression now,  I will be buttoning it all back up & seeing how it runs soon.. I'm very appreciative for all the advice.
I will let you guys know how it turns out.
Posted by: mtnman37879
« on: May 24, 2018, 09:21:16 AM »

If the valve was stuck the rattle would be loud. Time to lap your valves and hope you don't need to grind them.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 23, 2018, 08:47:41 PM »

Ooooh.  Most surely a problem.  --0--?  Sure sounds like a stuck valve.  I was able to free up a stuck valve without pulling the head.  Mix up some Acetone and ATF  50:50.  Pull the side cover and the #4 plug.  Squirt some through the spark hole and wait. Squirt and wait. Squirt and wait.  Use a rod to gently push down on the valve.  Use a paint scraper, knife.  Work it between the tappet and bottom of valve stem.  Keep working it back and forth this way. Keep squirting the above mixture.  Eventually, the valve will be free.
Posted by: DavidB
« on: May 23, 2018, 08:30:10 PM »

Thanks so much for that . I will check it out.
I finally found time to pull a compression test..#1 -120lbs, #2=115lbs, #3- 120 lbs, #4--0--. So now I will remove the side cover and see if it's a stuck valve I suppose...I sure hope that is all it is, I am guessing that this is the answer to my carburetor woes?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 23, 2018, 08:16:13 PM »

Dave,
ScoutPilot is our resident expert, rebuilder, restorer of the Carter-WOs along with other models.  He is more than happy to help you work through this by yourself, or rebuild it for you.  Exceptional work, and a pure business professional.

His web site is packed with detailed photos and videos.  If you don't find what you need, just post a question or send him a private message. 

http://oldjeepcarbs.freeforums.net

He can be found on every Willys site too.

Posted by: DavidB
« on: May 23, 2018, 05:34:32 PM »

Ok, here's the update..I have rechecked every jet, all were clear. I even changed bases, but it still doesn't run unless the choke is near fully closed. Does anyone have a well , clear picture of all phases of the rebuild on the carburetor? The ones I have are too grainy to make sure I have everything as it should be. I am also going to do a compression test. What numbers are acceptable on this ? I am almost ready to order a new Solex carburetor, but I want to keep it stock, if possible..if I had hair, I'd pull it out.
Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: May 21, 2018, 05:53:01 AM »

Does the jeep have vacuum wipers or any other vacuum operated device? Check the supply tube(s) for proper fitment and/or any breaks.
Have you checked vacuum readings? What is your best idle RPM? If 900 and above, you may not notice a change in the motor with a volatile test, especially at altitude.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 20, 2018, 10:54:30 PM »

Dave, I would probably start with the idle jet.  It's the long skinny one.  These are prone to clogs if the fuel supply isn't clean and filtered.  I've had to clean one out on the trail a couple years ago.

Also, there is an overlooked passage way between the idle mixture screw port and the chamber behind the large plug on the front of the carb base.  This can clog too, and is difficult to clean if the plug isn't removed.  It can cause problems with carburetor function.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: May 20, 2018, 10:39:47 PM »

I do agree that an engine needs decent compression and vacuum to run well.

I'm simply looking at different issues based on past experience with the L-134 engine.  With only marginal compression (70s) and low vacuum (15 at 5,500' altitude), I have been able to get them to idle and run with zero choke.
Posted by: mtnman37879
« on: May 20, 2018, 09:02:44 PM »

When was the last valve job? The engine must make enough suction to get the fuel into the cylinder. Leaky valves stop the suction.