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Topic Summary

Posted by: specialty
« on: February 08, 2016, 04:45:00 AM »

Quote
Might suggest that you check the float level in your carter carb. Mine leaked gasoline and a local jeep dealer said i needed a new carb. Scout Pilot refused to sell me a new carb and guided me through an adjustment process. I set the float to the correct level and no more leak. Has been running great ever since. Good luck.
I rebuilt the whole carb after it had been in a shed for years although it did run to my surprise. I think the Ethanol got to the carb gaskets and then it started leaking. I hope these rebuild kits are made to withstand ethanol!
Posted by: specialty
« on: February 08, 2016, 04:40:52 AM »

Quote
The chassis looks great.� Your shop looks well equipped too.� Nice!

Tim
I have a machine shop here in the Shenandoah Valley with CNC Lathes and mills along with a hydraulic metal shear and 8 foot brake. I don't use the CNC's much on this project but I do use the manual machines to make some parts I need for my Willys. I have also found the brake and shear to be a big help. I have almost rebuilt my tub as far as metal work without buying a single panel and have most of it all welded in and I am now about ready to start the body work. I hope to be on the road come May but that may be wishful thinking. Scout Pilot and others helped me on the carb and I just finished up rebuilding the brakes last week along with the drive shafts, distributor bushings and advance, and parking brake overhaul. Steering column and box are done but still need to replace all tie rod ends, drag link, etc. Also the front springs and weld the front "c" shackle bracket back on the frame. Not a whole lot left on the chassis and I have been fortunate with the major components. The engine purrs like a kitten, everything works and sounds good on my test starts and going through the gears with the drive shafts out or up on stands. This has definitly been a learning process on a budget but I am getting there with many hours since last summer. More pics to come. Thanks
Posted by: Steve R
« on: February 06, 2016, 05:55:04 PM »

Might suggest that you check the float level in your carter carb. Mine leaked gasoline and a local jeep dealer said i needed a new carb. Scout Pilot refused to sell me a new carb and guided me through an adjustment process. I set the float to the correct level and no more leak. Has been running great ever since. Good luck.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 02, 2016, 07:54:44 PM »

The chassis looks great.  Your shop looks well equipped too.  Nice!

Tim
Posted by: specialty
« on: February 02, 2016, 05:20:56 PM »

here are a few pics of my chasis so far
Posted by: specialty
« on: December 21, 2015, 05:11:07 AM »

Just looking at your photos Tim, you sure do some really nice work. Those are awesome looking units.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: December 13, 2015, 11:40:54 AM »

Hawk's wife to Hawk:  Honey, have you seen our patio furniture?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 13, 2015, 11:09:29 AM »

Jeepfever,
Thanks for chiming in.   
Grounds are critical for proper function of the entire electrical system.  Grounding the frame makes it easier to ground the tub.  The tub needs to be grounded so the lights, fuel sender, fuel gauge, regulator, horn, etc, will work.  If an electrical component doesn't work, the first troubleshooting step should be to make sure it is properly grounded. 

There may be better ways to ground the system, but this is the Willys way.  Personally, I've added more ground points to my projects than CJ3As had originally.

Okie, you're right, the key switch isn't technically needed.  If you have one and can temp mount it somehow, it's a fairly safe way to start and stop the circuit...




Posted by: JeepFever
« on: December 13, 2015, 08:40:43 AM »

Very nice drawing Tim!

I have to admit I was questioning it at first though.  Ground from battery to frame?   I would have thought the ground should go straight to engine block.   That would be a more reliable connection for this really high amp duty.

I went to look at Hoover, and sure enough -> a short cable from battery to bracket,   then another short cable basically going around the rubber motor mount.   Both of mine are in really bad shape,  and will have to be replaced when the time comes.   

I wonder if this design is decendant from wwii MB's trying to save copper?

Lesson learned ->  do not question athawk.   ;D
Posted by: OkieFarmJeep
« on: December 13, 2015, 07:41:27 AM »

You can eliminate the key switch as well.  I keep a long bit of wire with two alligator clips in my tool box. One to batt pos the other to the pos coil. Hence the term "hot wire a car".  That way you don't need the tub on or key switch from it.   Dito on your illustrations Tim!
Posted by: specialty
« on: December 11, 2015, 12:24:18 PM »

The reason I asked is all the wiring looked like the rats got into it. I don't even know how it ran for as long as it did. When I removed the tub most of what was left of the wiring is finished. I am going to get another Harness or just run the wires myself. Doesn't look like to mush wiring is involved here. Thanks again.
Posted by: specialty
« on: December 11, 2015, 08:12:21 AM »

Thanks Hawk, this will be a lot of help.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 04, 2015, 10:20:32 PM »

Thanks again guys.�

Bretto...yes, I'm a lefty.� How can you tell?  Is it the lean?  ;D

Tim
Posted by: BMIC
« on: December 04, 2015, 10:34:24 AM »

Ditto Tim
Posted by: bretto
« on: December 04, 2015, 06:37:57 AM »

Sorry, I have to give my appreciation to Tim's illustration as well, nicely done my friend.  Are you a lefty?