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Topic Summary

Posted by: JimVillers
« on: December 19, 2015, 07:14:53 PM »

Thanks for the recommendations. 

My parts are at my machine shop, the crank had a crack around #4 journal so everything is on hold until I get a good crank.  I was not planning to surface the head as it is smooth and flat.  I'll go ahead and get it surfaced.  I will be installing hardened seats so that I will never worry about unleaded gas.
Posted by: Dre
« on: December 18, 2015, 06:33:47 PM »

So this means that rusty heart of my 50 3A can still be salvaged? I will attempt taking it apart� to see how the inside looks - it is frozen and it had been baking under Arizona sun for the past 30 years...

This gives me hope.
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: August 15, 2012, 10:32:10 AM »

So your rebuilding the L134. Remove the dowel pins from the block that hold the main shells in place, they will fall out.

Take the block and head to an automotive machine shop and have them hot tanked and magnafluxed and call you before doing anything else. Have them mic the cam bores and main bores before doing any machine work and if they are oversize have them fixed or get another block.

If it needs boring and/or has cracks have the cracks pinned and if the crack goes into the cyl bore have that bore sleeved. If the crack goes into a valve seat have a seat installed. If the crack goes into a stud hole put a solid insert into that hole and seal the OD of the insert.

Have hard seats installed if your not comfortable with the original seats. Do a 3 angle valve seat, they know what that means.

I don't recommend boring over .060" and if it's .060" and needs boring then sleeve it back to stock size.

Have the head and block surface ground, DON'T SKIP HAVING THAT DONE.

Don't buy an overhaul kit, shop around for parts and try to buy made in USA if possible.