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Topic Summary

Posted by: jpet
« on: January 01, 2016, 02:30:07 PM »

Quote
.......Just to clarify. Measuring from the top center of the windshield back you end up at the tailgate cut out. So I used a straight edge placed on the back of my tub to establish the �inside of tub�.� Is that the correct way to do it?
Yeppers.

Quote
It is common for the windshield to be bent ....
Absolutely.� It happens because the drivers and or passengers grab the windshield and pull on it to help themselves into the jeep.� the higher they grab the windshield the more stress they put on it.� I've seen it much worse on a 2A windshield than a 3A windshield.
Quote
Do your drawings show what the windshield to the tub measurement should be on the sides?�
Well the windshield drops approximately 3/8" where you would measure to the tub lip.� That would change the inside to inside dimension to 66.64 and that would put your dimension to within 1/8" of my data.� I'd say that's pretty good.� Just a minor change in the windshield to cowl gasket is significant.� For example, +/- 1/32" of your windshield gasket thickness exponentiate to +/- 1/8" at the top of the windshield.
Quote
I drew it up and came out with 66.510" same as the Besttop instructions.� I'm so happy to have something concrete to go by
I'd call it good.
Posted by: CJPilot
« on: January 01, 2016, 01:08:30 PM »

Jpet� Thank you for the drawing.� �Just to clarify. Measuring from the top center of the windshield back you end up at the tailgate cut out. So I used a straight edge placed on the back of my tub to establish the �inside of tub�.� Is that the correct way to do it?

It is common for the windshield to be bent OOF and if measuring from the center line� one can�t determine which side is correct.� �Do your drawings show what the windshield to the tub measurement should be on the sides?� If not, I guess I could calculate it.

I drew it up and came out with 66.510" same as the Besttop instructions.  I'm so happy to have something concrete to go by
Posted by: jpet
« on: January 01, 2016, 11:20:31 AM »

Hi All,

Sorry to be late to the party.� I skimmed through the thread but forgive me if I'm posting something that's already been said here or on the 2A page.

The correct measurement for a 3A from inside of the windshield (very top center), to the inside of the tub is 66.7 .....



.... this is measured from the very top center of the windshield which is its highest point.� The correct tilt of the windshield is supposed to be 16 degrees.� (not 15).� All these dimensions come from original Willys documentation and drawings I have had access to and I have confirmed them against an M38.

IMO, $295 for a set of bows from Walcks is a very good deal.� When I was making top bows, I would not have been able to make a full set of bows, rod hardware and everything for $135.� I said this on the 2A page but I saw a set of MDJuan bows at the 2013 Spring Reunion.� They could not be assembled and it was clear that the engineer did not know how to assemble them.� The set I saw had the door handle assembly for the drivers side welded to the vertical door rod for the passenger side and vise versa.� A 3A set would not have the door handles on the vertical rods so I guess that's not an issue.� I spoke with Rommel Juan and the engineer.� I explained the errors and how to fix them.� I even provide a drawing.� I don't mean to flame MDJuan because i know Rommel and in the past he has been open to forum members for help but this was 2-1/2 years ago so it's actually a little disappointing that these bows are still being sold so much later.� I'd ask how old the stock is.

canopy:

I'd agree with 1955CJ-5 that a 2 piece canopy with the open back arch is all you need for any weather/sun conditions other than winter.� Some of you guys know that I drive my flattys year round with canvas tops.� I have driven in many a rain fall with a simple 2 piece top.� Leave the rear panel out so that it does not trap wind.� You won't get wet unless the rain is coming sideways.� If you don't want to get wet at all, a set of half doors would be nice.

HTH
Posted by: CJPilot
« on: December 31, 2015, 05:03:04 PM »

Thanks for the info T weed.  The Besttop instructions say 66.5"  inside of the windshield to inside of the back of the jeep. If I'm looking the pictures correct yours are shorter than that.  Going with your advice I'm going to adjust mine to 66.5"

The top bows I bought from Walck's are different.  The rear side curtain rods are straight and engage a hole in each upright tube. Your setup looks more ridged.
Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: December 31, 2015, 04:27:56 PM »

Just noticed the distortion of my iPad pictures.

Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: December 31, 2015, 04:26:37 PM »

Quote
TW� �Stumbling onto your treads both here and on the 2A page has me engaged in my project again. Do you know the correct distance from the inside top of the windshield to the back inside of the tub?� The Besttop instructions say 66��.� �Jpet listed this at 67.13� for the 2a. I have a repo tub with a second hand windshield so I don't have much to go by.

I tried to attach a picture but for some reason can't.


CJPilot

I would go with 66 1/2. In my pictures attached you will see the right side is about 66.250 and the left side is about 66.75"

Hope this helps.


Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: December 31, 2015, 04:16:42 PM »

Had to cut the rear top bow down to 47 1/2" and matched the length to the front cross bow. Prior to welding the rear cross bow I inserted a 2" long steel rod that I had to give support to the new weld. You can see a little hump in my weld but I am okay with it.

On the rear side curtain rods I had to cut 5" out of each rod and weld back together.

The side supports both driver and passenger I had to cut off the flat taps and weld a threaded rod to fit the windshield. (Lesson from garage gnome. - thanks)

I think everything is in place but feel free to comment. Since I will not be adding doors I think I can just leave the vertical door rods off at this time.

Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: December 31, 2015, 02:53:30 PM »

Hello out there.

CJ Pilot it is good to hear from you again. JPet sent me the dimensions from his CJ2A as well. I can go measure from the front windshield to the rear and see what I can come up with. When I was adjusting my windshield the only thing I was looking for at the time was to make sure that when it was in the down position it did not rub on the hood. I don't know if that's the correct way to adjust but it worked okay for me.

Once I assembled (after modification)the top bow set I was surprised at how good everything fit. I think my windshield had a slight twist as the right side was about 1/2" further back than the left side. Once I adjusted the screws on the top side supports (this would be the threaded bars 2 ea.) it all came together.

Tim, Rick, the modification was really not that bad. I had to modify 5 parts and it took me about 6 - 7 hours to cut,weld, grind, and prime. For the price $115.00 I think it will work out just fine. I'm really not a cheap skate but I believe that sometimes you can find a bargain. I don't think I would order doors from Omix / MDJ. Probably go with Beachwood on this as well as the top. They really did a great job on my seats.

I'm rethinking a full top since it never really gets too cold. Thanks Randy for the suggestion. And again I'll be saving money with a summer top. I will spend the extra money on a trailer! :)

I will post the modifications with pictures so FBB,s (Future Bow Buyers) will have an idea of the steps involved.

Wishing you all a safe and wonderful 2016

George.......

Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 30, 2015, 03:44:50 PM »

Well, George, that bites! 

Did it sound like they would address the mistakes?  If not, can you keep track of the modifications you're forced to do?  It may be helpful to the 3A folks.
Posted by: CJPilot
« on: December 30, 2015, 03:39:11 PM »

Ryan � Yes back at it. I'm trying to get to where I can put some paint on it. I'm held up with fitting the windshield, doors and top bows.  My windshield is not original to my jeep and with a repo tub  I don't have much I can go by.   Engine runs surprisingly good after I found the crack in the intake manifold.
Posted by: RICKG
« on: December 30, 2015, 02:54:45 PM »

It was a sad day when manufacturing shifted QC to the buyer.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: December 30, 2015, 09:30:07 AM »

TW - Sorry to hear of your struggles with the Top Bow set. On behalf of the rest of us thanks for being the sacrificial guinea pig. I was one mouse-click away from owning a set of these myself. Looks like it'll be better to wait on them awhile.

and CJPilot - Good to see you back in action. I was wondering what happened to you. Did you get your tub fitment issues squared away? If I remember correctly you had some outlandish bad luck with your motor awhile back too.
Posted by: CJPilot
« on: December 30, 2015, 08:47:49 AM »

TW   Stumbling onto your treads both here and on the 2A page has me engaged in my project again. Do you know the correct distance from the inside top of the windshield to the back inside of the tub?  The Besttop instructions say 66��.   Jpet listed this at 67.13� for the 2a. I have a repo tub with a second hand windshield so I don't have much to go by.

I tried to attach a picture but for some reason can't.
Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: December 29, 2015, 03:43:23 PM »

I hope that MD Juan is looking at this forum.

His CJ 3A top bow set does not fit properly and the information that I received this morning from the seller indicates there is a measurement issue with this set.

Mr. Franks,
The tech just got back to me. This is what he said. What would you like to do?

"I went and measured our factory installed frame on a vehicle and our collection to compare to the reproduction and do notice some of the measurements differ and the threaded portion is not on the end of the front support. Given that the products we offer at the moment seem to have these discrepancies I can pick this up and refund for the bow assembly so I can notify QC of the issues and have them perform an investigation."


So now I do what garage gnome did and probably a few other members,

Cut, weld, grind and paint.

So for about 115.00 of the 13 piece set, I got 8 parts that work.

I am still happy with the rod diameter and cross bow tube thickness.

Gives me something to do in the garage tomorrow.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: December 21, 2015, 02:55:53 PM »

Well George....

Here is my humble opinion..

I prefer driving the jeep either with no top (Don't we all!) or with what I think would be called a "trail top"...just a top with canvas corners in the back...

A full enclosure with doors is pretty confining but if it were really cold probably a good choice.

Side curtains are OK but they flap a lot..and they block your vision to the right

The rear removable panel keeps the exhaust out but it blocks your vision to the rear.......

So maybe you don't need those holes.....?