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Topic Summary

Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: August 28, 2015, 11:23:45 AM »

Thanks for the input - all of this pie/cake talk is making me hungry!  Since I have to take the whole windshield frame in to the body shop to get the twist out of it, I think I will just have them do the glass install.  I have a new seal and "rope" so with any luck they will know what to do with it. 

3 weeks!  Just made my reservation in Salida last night.  With any luck I'll have a good running machine by then.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 28, 2015, 10:07:57 AM »

I agree for sure...the right tools would help and might even make it fun...

I used cut-up bondo paddles but they were not quite stiff enough.

I did buy the special tool for installing the lock strip...about $12..on a recommendation from F Bill...and that made the lock strip install a piece of cake with cool whip on it!
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: August 28, 2015, 07:46:10 AM »

Piece of pie?  ;D The plastic wedge tool is something that is needed or you'll have a bad experience. If you think this is tough, try a old Jeep pickup two piece windshield. I broke 3 before I figured it out, and Carl Walck told me the secret. He also used to replace Freight Liner windshields and he said the Jeep pickup was the worst he has had to do. I aggree.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 26, 2015, 07:24:42 PM »

Quote
Easy as cake!

I chewed on that cake for about 6 hours when I put mine in....will be going to a different bakery next time ;D
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: August 26, 2015, 06:26:06 PM »

I lay my M38 windshield on a piece of carpet on the floor and do it off the Jeep. I buy the same diagonal size rubber, right from the glass shops. I've done 3 of them. The trick is take your original glass in to them as a pattern. Then get a piece of the moulding (bought by the foot off a reel) a little long. Fit it to the frame as tight as you can and then add about 1/4 inch extra. The strip or rubber is one piece and has a slit on one side and a lip that simply locks into it. You don't need the small tube like locking strip. You do need a plastic wedge pry bar to work the lock into the strip. So, use soapy water, put rubber in frame opening, soap up the channel, gently lay the glass on top of the rubber , start the bottom or top, work around the corners until it all pops into the channel. Then you soap up the locking lip and work it in. Don't get in a rush, be patient and work it , trying not to put too much pressure on things. Never chip or bang the edge of the glass. That will break it.  Easy as cake! John
Posted by: RICKG
« on: August 26, 2015, 11:07:28 AM »

Tom, installing the lock bead to the inside facilitates glass install with windshield frame folded down on the hood. If glass is gonna come out its gonna go in the direction of the pressure applied no matter which side the lock bead is on.� One way to minimize rubber shrinkage after install is to offset the gasket and bead. in other words if you put the gasket seam at top, put the lock bead seam at bottom. I used MWM's gasket set, fresh production and supple, no shrinkage or deterioration after 4 yrs.

I work in the glass industry and projected glass price increases are expected to be 25-30% this fall. Paying an experienced glazer to do the work makes sense, they have the tools and experience. You only gotta break the glass once to find out ;)
Posted by: Tumbleweed
« on: August 26, 2015, 09:47:11 AM »

I had Binswanger Glass put my glass and weatherstrip in. The installation was $20 and the glass $100.00. They told me that they had a seal available but I had already purchased one from Walks. They did a nice job of sealing the gap where the seal comes together. I read the posts on installation and I did not want to attempt this task.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: August 25, 2015, 11:03:29 PM »

I mounted mine with the small bead to the inside, as that was how it came to me, and it looks like the original windshield glass...

I also used the Walck's seal set.

Of all the little tasks during the CJ-3a assembly process the windshield was the most memorable, and not in a good way...

Paying someone to do it is well worth the money in my opinion.

John Bizal at Midwest Military carries an M-38 seal that he claims is superior...and it might be....
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: August 25, 2015, 10:22:16 PM »

Hey Tim,  'tiz a puzzler.  I've read about this before and it seems like a guy could go either way.  Definitely don't want the glass to fall to the inside, but just as important, when the windshield is laid flat when towing or even just driving, I wouldn't want it to fall onto the hood either.  I try to support it from underneath when flat, but was wondering how these came off of the assembly line?

i found that my windshield frame has a slight twist to it and it is finally starting to actually squeeze the glass out somehow.  I'm going to have a body shop try to put the frame back to square and set the glass in a new seal.  Been worried about this for a while and I want to finally make it right.  Thanks for your input!  BTW...Rockateer has been MIA...hope he's doing well.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: August 25, 2015, 10:07:24 PM »

What's up Tom?

I bought that same kit from Walcks.   It has shrunk about a 1/4" over 4 years, but other than that, it seems up to the task.

I followed the advice of Rocketeer that used to visit here.  He suggested the small portion of the seal should be on the outside.  I believe it was to prevent the windshield from falling in on a driver if it was dislodged during an accident.  Upon further review, I think I would have liked it more if I had installed the small piece to the inside.

Tim
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: August 25, 2015, 03:25:30 PM »

What is the consensus in regards to mounting the glass - on the inside of the frame or on the outside? 

And, what is the best seal to use?  Walcks and KW seem to both offer the Omix or Crown which appears to be the same.  Is there a better way to go or should this seal suffice?
http://walcks4wd.com/weather-strip-windshield-glass.html